Welding MGB Side Trim holes and marker Light Holes

Started by Brownwood, May 13, 2014, 10:23:24 AM

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Brownwood

As I ponder the installation of my Huffaker flares on my 80 B V8 conversion, I want to remove the stainless side trim and the side marker lights (A necessity really).  I find welding up all those holes intimidating.  What I am wondering is if it is even possible to do this with my simple 2 speed wire welder, or will I just blow big holes in my sheetmetal?

roverman

When possible, I like to use an aluminum block, as back-up, to fill holes in steel. The aluminum works geat as a heat sink, reducing blow-outs, and mostly, the wire/steel doesn't stick to it.  Good Luck, roverman.

mgb260

Keith, rosette(a little swirl) weld for screw and trim holes. round patch tacked in for side marker holes. Just keep tacking alternately each side until you are all the way around. Grind and fill.

Brownwood

Thanks guys, with trepidation I move forward.  I will probably try it on a door that is being replaced to learn.

rficalora

Keith - welding with a MIG isn't too difficult to learn, but if you're worried about blowing holes through the sheet metal, do practice on some scrap of the same/similar gauge before welding on your car.

I've never heard of backing up the weld with Aluminum, but copper is commonly used.  The weld will not stick to copper so you can hold it to the back side of the hold & weld a rosette very easily.  Eastwood sells copper for this purpose, but I found flattening out some soft copper pipe from the local big box hardware store works just as well.  YouTube is a great source to learn by watching.

I will say a welder that lets you use shielding gas (Argon/CO2 mix for steel like the car body) makes it 1000 times easier than welding with flux core wire.  There's way less splatter making it easier to see what you're welding.

roverman

AIRC, argon burns a lil' cooler than CO2, so is better for sheet metal.  roverman.

74ls1tr6

Also use .023 (smallest your machine can handle) wire if you can. Try not to point the Mig straight at you work. Lay your Mig wire feed off to the side( like at a 45 degrees). I have found you don't blow through your work as fast. Spot weld around your work until it's all filled in, so you won't warp the metal. Do not over heat or it will warp.

Brownwood

Thanks for all the info!  So back to my original question.  Is this possible with my simple 2 power, hi and low, wire welder if i use small diameter wire?

This is what I have:  http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200403263_200403263

MGBV8

Try it on some scrap. I don't think it will do the job very well, if at all.  That welder advertises down to 18 gauge metal. I believe your fenders are thinner at 20 gauge.
Carl

roverman

Best chance is likely: "a" use copper/aluminum back-up, and "b" lowest amperage, with fastest allowable wire speed,(just short of pushing-back).  Good Luck, roverman.

Moderator

If in doubt, this would be a relatively cheap little job to outsource. It shouldn't take anyone an hour, if you do the prep/cleaning/trim removal work in advance. I didn't have my MIG yet when I filled those holes on my car, so I went to my friend's house and we used his.
1971 MGB GT V8
Buick 215 w/ Rover heads, custom EFI & crank-fired ignition.
Custom front and rear coilover suspensions.

Brownwood

Thanks all!  As much as I want a MIG, this project has taken all of my fun money.  Outsourcing might be the way to go

Preform Resources

Kieth, just make sure you get a shop that knows what they are doing, not some jiffy popper  that will cause more problems.
Dave

pspeaks

Keith, I think Curtis and Dave have the right idea about having it professionally done, without a lot of practice I wouldn't be comfortable doing it either and my eye site isn't all that good anymore anyway, but if you decide to try it, I have a 115 volt MIG machine with a low 22 ga. setting that might work for you and it will use .023" wire.  I haven't used it in a while because I have a 220 volt welder, that would be way too big for welding door holes.  The small welder just sets in the corner; I used it on my firewall.  I'd be happy to drop it by your house one day this week.  Like Carl said, practice, practice, practice, don't do it until you're sure.


Paul

Preform Resources

I liked Robs idea of mashing the end of a copper tube flat and using it to back up the holes,
it could be used in  in confined areas too.
Dave

pspeaks


Brownwood

Hey Paul that would be great!  I could meet you 1/2 way or something.  Lunchtime Thursday or Friday?  Also, I'm not in a big hurry if that doesn't work.  Kids and grand kids coming in this weekend so my next couple of weeks are going to be crazy busy.  PLus, my trepidation has prevented me from removing the stainless trim so far! :)

I have a bashed up door I am going to practice on 1st, to see if I can do it.....

pspeaks

Keith, Friday would be good for me, I'll PM you my cell number.  I'll probably be at the T-Bucket Factory in McKinney anyway so no need in meeting halfway.


Paul