Here is the new engine ready to go in my '71 MGB.
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This new engine is a 300 based stroker of 346 cubic inch displacement at a .030" overbore. It uses a 350 Buick crank, Carillo 6.2" rods, 10.5 Wiseco pistons, TAPerformance Rover heads, 1.9/1.6" Ti valves, beehive springs, LS style stud mount roller rockers, modded Chevy solid roller lifters and a TA roller cam with the LT "Hot" grind. The intake is fully custom with vertical runners and centered vertical dump injectors from a top plenum fed from an inverted M112 blower and will use the same Enderlie style bug catcher as the last two engines, at least until I see fit to make a new one. The block is deburred and coated inside and out with Cerrakote silver ceramic as are the outside surfaces of the other engine parts.
Here is the prepared engine bay which previously housed a variety of 215's, a Buick 340 and a 300, N/A, turboed and blown.
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The 346 stroker is the best of the lot and with luck may be the last but I kept and upgraded the 340 as a spare just in case. That may provide the insurance to prevent the need, ultimately letting me sell the 340 but time will tell. Many things change.
I will document the install but basically it is old hat by now, mainly the reverse of the last removal with a few new custom parts like a set of fuel rails and a riser for the scoop, and ordering some bits like a set of stainless ferry bolts for the headers.
The new engine will provide performance just a bit better than the 340 did but in a package that fits the MGB better. Not that it particularly matters for this car as it already has the mods required for the 340, but I did want to do a high performance 300 build and this is it. It has much better heads and stronger rods, better oil drainback and should have a higher redline.
Jim
That engine is a work of art. The custom plenum work on top of the blower is amazing. Full throttle blasts will be fun but brief.
The removal took just a day or two but going the other way is going to be at least a couple of weeks. Funny how that works. I had 3 choices on the bellhousing and after trying all three decided to use the old conventional standard push type if I can. You know the one, it had a fully mechanical linkage as used by GM. The advantage is that the clutch fork has a MUCH wider range of motion which makes the rest of it so much easier instead of having to fight to get every detail perfect so the clutch will work. One of these is the Sunfire (Starfire? Sunbird? Whatever) cable operated bell which is second best and the modded bell with the S10 clutch fork is the trickiest to set up and the least forgiving.
The mechanical bell is often used with a pull cylinder, frequently with the clutch fork shortened. I am going to attempt to use it with a push cylinder, we'll see how that works out.
I had a "You're so stupid" moment, never overlook the length of the lifting arm on your engine hoist. I had the arm all the way out and the legs pulled back and never even thought about it when I took the engine off the stand. It was fine until I had the transmission bolted up and began to lift it up again. Of course it waited to overbalance until it was a couple feet in the air and then it was like a slow motion train wreck as I watched the hoist tip up and deposit the engine back on the floor. DUH! If I'd been only a little less surprised I could have hopped up on the back of the hoist frame but no. I just stood there like a complete idiot and watched while it bashed in the bottom of my newly painted and sealed oil pan.
So that's gotta come back off. Engine's gotta go back on the stand. Lucky that's the only damage. This could be cause for major frustration and indeed for a time I was quite unsettled. The day had started poorly with a dream of a gang of 4wd trucks destroying the back yard with 2 ft deep ruts to the point where all grass was gone and it'd take days with a bulldozer (which I don't have) to even begin to fix it. How's that even happen in a day? I yelled at people, ran them all off, and was even considering the shotgun, and it'd all started as a party. Dreams, right? Fagidaboudit. The rest of the day was one step forward and two steps back until I realized later on, I'm really a very lucky guy! How many can spend their time the way I do? I've got WAY more to be thankful for than to complain about. With that thought in mind, I want to wish you all a fantastic day, I know mine will be. And as I've said before, anything worth doing is worth doing twice. Generally the second time I find ways to do it better.
Jim
The saga continues and I'm about where I was before dropping the engine except I have the mechanical bell bolted up and haven't attached the transmission yet.
So I've been looking at the slave cylinder and I'm a little concerned about clearance to the tunnel for the clutch arm. I could approach this several different ways. It's probably possible to mount and use a push cylinder. It may not be the best option though. Space will be tight and servicing won't be any easier, may in fact be more cramped. The arm could be cut and shortened by re-welding the end back on after a section is removed, a long enough rod could be used to get the mount forward of the flange, Then I'd have to order a larger master cylinder. At the existing length that would have to be 15/16", with a 1" shorter arm it would have to be 7/8", both available. The mount would be tricky, and with the headers and block drain in the same general area it would only be accessible from the bottom so no advantage there.
OTOH, I could go with a pull cylinder. To do that the arm gets cut off and a hole drilled through the top and bottom flange and maybe a bit more work for clearance for a rod end. At the other end the case has a lug that can be used. Pretty easy. I could add a strap from the lug to a case bolt if I want to reinforce it and I probably do. We used this setup (without the strap) on the MGB-Roadmaster and had zero issues with it. The only questions are how much to shorten the arm and what size master cylinder to use.
I think the RoadMaster used a 3/4" MC, the pull slave has a 7/8" bore and I think that's pretty standard. The 3/8" rod reduces the effective size of the bore to .791".
My existing slave cylinder has a 3/4" bore. I can reduce the arm length up to 2-1/4" from 7" or as short as 4-3/4" on the MC side for a ratio of 1.58:1 for a ratio increase of 1.4:1, meaning that with the .791" effective bore my MC size would need to be .739 or better which checks rather nicely with the MC size in the RM and I have a new 3/4" MC that I can easily use. So far it all looks good. I've made an assumption as to my existing MC size but think it's accurate as I decreased it recently. So I just need a couple of spherical joints which I'll have to look, might have one or two, and the pull cylinder which from Speedway costs less than a new Tilton MC. I can go ahead with the install once the arm is shortened and drilled as this can all be added from under the lift.
Good progress.
Jim
Looks like I made the right choice going to the pull cylinder and shortening the arm by 2-1/4". The spacing works out just about right.
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I put the hole as close to the vertical wall as I could get it, even cutting into the wall a bit and then sliced out clearance for the heim joint but I wasn't happy with the amount of metal left between the hole and the edge so I used the MIG welder to build that up and then the angle grinder with a flapper wheel to dress it back down flat and put a radius on it. Might not be clear in the shot but the end product looks right.
Now a word on some of the finer details of the block side mounts when used on the 300. The following photo shows the position of the driver's side mount when used with the TA heads:
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Notice the proximity to the dipstick tube and the adjacent boss on the block. Once you stack a couple washers and a 7/16" hex bolt with it's 11/16" head there is barely enough room to get a 3/8" drive socket on the head of the bolt and it may take a prybar levering the engine sideways to do it. You could make the mount a little wider but it's already getting pretty close to the wing on both sides so clearance is tight. A SHCS could be used instead of a hex bolt and that solves the problem. Also forming a screw tip on the end of the bolt makes it lead into the captive nut for easier install. The iron heads are a bit worse as that boss on the block is covered up by a boss on the heads:
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The Rover heads are the same as the TA heads and the aluminum 300 heads are sort of in between the two:
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I still think these are the best mounts, closer to perfection than anything else we have so far, but still not perfect but I think it's as close as we are going to get. If I was doing them again I'd probably space that one out a good sixteenth from the block, really more an issue of the hole location in the frame rail than the mount itself as it has some play. I didn't do it this time but if I have them out again in the future I think I will just plan on the SHCS mod. It'll make things easier.
As for forming a screw tip, the best way is on a lathe, running CCW so the tool runs off the end of the screw and running in the crossfeed by hand at the end to cut the threads into a point. It can be done in a vise with a triangular file also. A bit tedious and inaccurate but it doesn't have to be perfect. It's only purpose is to engage the threads and pull the bolt into full engagement.
Jim
Yesterday I put the new dust boot on the shifter of my Tremec 3550. This same boot is listed for all the Tremecs and T5s with the oem shift tower. The original boot has a plate that bolts down and a small rubber boot, this one is about a 3" diameter all rubber boot that stretches out to fit over the edge of the shift tower and the boot itself is considerably larger. It's probably the only replacement boot available and it seems to work well but is not easy to stretch over the tower. They provided 3 tabs to get ahold of it with but even so it has to stretch quite a lot. I also lubed the hole the shifter goes through, the step on the shaft is a small hurdle. Reasonably tight there as well. It can be done by dropping the transmission mount crossmember a couple inches but be prepared for a struggle.
While inspecting the bottom side I found a couple of issues that need attention, the brake line to the right side got crimped badly at the fitting, probably by the starter so that will need re-flared but should be salvageable without running a new line. Must be time to flush the front brake lines. Also I have the wrong filter base on my oil pump so that will need to be changed. This could have been a big problem. This particular base sits at a 45 degree angle and seems to be the most common one with the SBB engines. I have several of them. The one on my iron head 300 is at 30 degrees and works with my frame rail/big cross flow radiator mods but that one will require re-positioning of my serpentine drive belt tensioner. I really don't want to do that. Otherwise it's a good filter mount if the frame mods are done. One of those, probably the 30 degree mount is likely to be the "Metric" mount used later on in production by Buick.
Fortunately for me I also have the straight mount from one of my old 215 engines. On the original install I used the smallest diameter filter possible and positioned it between the steering rack, the frame rail, and the sway bar. Today, the frame rail angles outwards, the steering rack is lowered, and the sway bar is moved down about 3 inches so there should be plenty of room. I may need to do a small bit of trimming on the bottom edge of the accessory drive mounting plate but possibly not even that. All in all a good result. It means having to re-seal the oil pump which I dislike, but at least it's a relatively easy fix.
So I'll work on buttoning up the bottom of the car. Wiring and such of course. The pull slave has been shipped and I want to make a reinforcing bracket for the transmission end of that which should be fairly simple.
Jim
I felt the risk of case breakage outweighed the utility of being able to use the lug on the side of the transmission as an anchor point for the pull cylinder which should be here by Friday so I made a reinforcement bracket.
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As is often the case I decided to make it out of stainless, as it needs no paint, is easy to clean, and gives generally about the same or better strength to weight ratio as steel. It is heavier but also stronger. I used 1/8" or 12 ga material, if I was using mild steel I would have used 3/16". Ignore all the power cords, those are from my angle grinders which seem to be a little bit like rabbits. HF is a definite enabler.
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I used a card to lay out the pattern of the base but this next shot gives approximate dimensions and the outline. It was an easy piece to make and is strong enough to make sure the tab doesn't get broken off the side of the case.
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The hole in the tab had to be enlarged slightly to match the 3/8" heim joint which will go above the plate. I considered an extra rib to triangulate the base plate but decided it really wasn't needed once I saw what was required to straighten the base after welding. I believe it'll be fine.
Yesterday I also swapped bases on some oil pumps, taking the "Metric" base off the 300 mule and putting it on the 340 and vice-versa for the standard base. The metric is definitely the base wanted if the wide-radiator frame mod is done, provided the engine is far forward enough to make use of it. I will be using the straight 215 base on the stroker and probably swapping it on today along with addressing the smashed brake line. Maybe hook up the wires to the starter if I get that far. I also need to make a splash shield for the bellhousing. I used some 3/8" thick white polyethylene for that part on the bay car, I may do the same thing here.
Jim
The pull cylinder came in yesterday and wouldn't you know it the description was inadequate. Listed as having 3/8" rods and while that is technically correct the business ends of the rods have a 5/16-24 thread. So here I am with 3/8" holes for the heim joints at both ends, meaning a sloppy fit that will wear. Not acceptable. Plus I have the 3/8" ends but do not have any 5/16" ones. I ordered a helicoil kit and will try inserting those in the rod ends to match the pull cylinder threads. The overall length should be close enough with those ends. If not I can make up a new rod for the stationary end that will take the 3/8" rod end directly. I might consider that for the pull rod too, I just hate breaking down a perfectly new cylinder. Still, it's an opportunity to make sure it is assembled correctly. Might need some 3/8" stainless rod.
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The replacement pump cover has plenty of clearance all around, the ports are to the back so nothing even comes close to the belt idler and there's plenty of room for a filter. I could probably use a full sized one.
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Jim
Some detail work going on.. I got the slave done and bled and it seems like that's going to work fine.
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My new yoke used straps instead of u-bolts so I positioned the VSS to trigger on the ears of the yoke which will mean changing the setting for that.
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I made a dust cover for the bellhousing, still have to cut the starter hole. Used 3/8" low density polyethylene.
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And did some trimming on the fan shroud to mate it to the new Proform 1-2-3 radiator from Summit.
Jim
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I did not trust the U-joint straps on my Camaro. I replaced them with U-joint girdles.
Good idea but it'd require the threaded holes to be drilled out.
Jim
The starter is out for delivery today and I have one multi-tube clamp I want to rework before that goes in as it will be hard to get to afterwards. I re-routed the slave cylinder lines and I suspect the bleeder line was bent and internally crimped because it doesn't flow the way it should but as I was able to bleed the cylinder anyway I'll leave it for now. I straightened the bent part and it does work but is slow to bleed. Not optimal but it is acceptable. If it has to come out some time in the future I'll probably replace the hose with something better.
I'm not really happy with the VSS so I've been thinking about how I could mount my old 2 piece tooth wheel. Problem is that the new bolts that hold the U-joint straps are specialized. I'm not all that happy with that. I suppose I could use SHCS which are grade 9. Several details involved there, for one the bolts are smaller diameter so the alignment of the tooth wheel will be trickier and the heads may pull through the holes, meaning lock washers or spacers or both are needed. Also that stamped stock bracket on the sensor allows it to rattle around more than I'm comfortable with, which wouldn't have been an issue in the stock application as it's clear from the o-ring that the sensor was located in a bore. The mount I'm using was never intended as a long term remedy anyway so I guess it's time to improve it. Some scraps of aluminum should suffice.
My grease gun needles came in so with the u-joints greased and the starter installed I should be pretty much done underneath once that's all handled and it'll be on to the radiator, wiring, plumbing and headers plus controls. Then new cylinder mounts for the bonnet and some bodywork trimming, at which point the new resonators should be here. They are small 6" diameter chambered units and I think that will complement the glass pack main mufflers and give a nice rumble out the back without being overly loud but there's going to be quite a bit of work routing and installing that part so it may not get done right away and maybe not in time for BV8 this year.
As if all that weren't enough, I've still got to make up a pair of fuel rails, weld up the cracks in the bug catcher, and make a riser to get it above the rails, after which get into the tuning software and at the very least change the values for the fuel injectors and hope that'll make it at least run well enough to drive. I expect an appointment with Nick for dyno tuning will be something like 6 months out or possibly even more. So it'll be up to me to get the more general tuning work done. Time is beginning to grow a bit short.
Jim
My starter came in today, not quite identical to the one I bought before so I could have just as well gone with the $46 one maybe. I'll make it work. Have to 'adjust' the block brace. No biggie.
Here's a couple shots of my line brackets:
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I should shorten the screw on that one. Pretty good lower view of my motor mount though...
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This one did hold the hoses for the clutch slave but that caused a kink with the new pull cylinder. Here's how I ended up mounting my timing wheel for the VSS. SHCS are grade 9 and I made up shouldered tubes to space out and center the halves. Not ideal and I was a little sloppy when I laid out the holes originally but it should work.
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Lastly here is the new sensor mount.
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Quite a bit of fiddly work to get the clearance in range and it varies more than I'd like but it should be OK.
Jim
I got the starter in (left the brace off, if it breaks the nose cone I'll swap the solenoid to the old one and use it). Still need to install the block drain on this side. I was off a little bit on the dust shield, oh well.
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I eliminated the filler neck on the radiator but may need to add an air bleed fitting.
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Also cut the exit holes to turn my exhaust in instead of out, need to buy some bends and couplers for that.
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Then bead blasted the port spacers and gaskets for my headers and test fitted those. Did some grinding for the spark plug boots and got that all bolted up with new stainless Ferry bolts. Those things are danged expensive but nothing else works as well. Started on new mounts for the bonnet lift cylinders. One of the old ones broke and the other is showing cracks. These may also be the source of my bonnet misalignment. A bit of automotive Jewelry there. I wonder if they'd draw any interest at the auction?
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May have to buy a new fan for the radiator, space is tight between one of the fan motors and the belt tensioner. Onward we go.
Jim
Next thing, because of the new belt layout the tensioner and one of the radiator fan motors want to occupy the same space so I'm exploring options on that. Might be able to make a new shroud and reverse the up/down stagger and keep these fans, might have to go with pancake motors, might even have to use a single larger fan. Some measuring and experimentation is required. I was not happy at all with the fan that comes with this radiator, as it's a single and instead of a full shroud has what is essentially a sheet metal mounting bracket with large openings in it. There is still much to do and I'm no longer certain of getting it all done in time for the meet. That was an open question going in to this upgrade though so it's nothing new. I'll be there, just don't know if the car will at this point. Probably. A lot depends on the tune when I get to that point. Today's tasks are plenty to deal with today and hopefully by tomorrow I'll have the fan solution well in hand. With luck maybe even have exhaust couplers and bends ordered as well. One can hope...
Jim
I have a plan. First, a shot of the late Camaro fan package, which can be had for around $100 or so new. It uses 3 relays so that the two fans can be driven in series for low speed at 6v and parallel for high at 12v and that method seems to work well.
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However the motor on the right side above wanted to use the same space as my belt tensioner. The remedy is to reposition the fans so the right one is lower, which involves cutting away part of the package and making a new shroud to mount them on. Here is the layout.
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Done that way there is plenty of toom for the tensioner and it should also make the fans much easier to remove if needed.
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Also my resonators came in. I didn't have a banana for scale so I used a spray bomb. As you can see they are fat little suckers. I'm considering spraying them with Cerrakote, meaning I have to sand blast them first. They didn't have them in stainless and the aluminized steel has more of a dampening effect anyway, meaning they are less likely to ring than if they were stainless. I'm pretty well convinced that the ringing is what makes some of the more popular aftermarket systems so annoying. These are a baffled/chambered resonator which should pair well with my glasspack forward mufflers.
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Jim
Had a little back strain yesterday but still got the shroud mostly finished:
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It's made of stainless, probably about 20ga and my cheap HF bender/slicer isn't much in the way of a pan brake so I had to beat the crap out of the corners to square them up but pretty much got there at last.
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Today I'll attach the fans, do a little straightening and maybe weld the corners if I think it'll help. Add fasteners and test fit and trim where needed. Drill and tap for a vent line probably, check how the slam panel matches up and move on to hoses. Every little bit helps.
Jim
Made good progress yesterday, I'm going on 3 days at this point on the radiator mods which I wasn't really expecting to have to do, but I wasn't considering how much different the new serpentine drive is from the old one on the 340. There will probably also end up being a cutout in the bonnet for the alternator which I had hoped to avoid but don't think at this point I'll be able to.
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Still some detail work to be done but the shroud is finished and the fans mounted. Welding the corners stiffened up the shroud more than you would expect.
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Spacing is pretty similar to the old radiator but it's an easier install. If I move the condenser the package goes right in. I padded the upper and lower mounts with 1/8" rubber sheet contact cemented in place.
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Tensioner clearance is... there? swapping belts might get a little tricky but nothing hits so at least that much is a win.
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The slam panel fits in the usual spot as before. I'll need to add nutserts for the top attachment where the hydraulic lines run and at the sides to attach the condenser, then I'll be able to reassemble the front of the car. I did drill and tap the radiator for the vent line, which of course now is just a bit short because the radiator is narrower.
Still lots to do though. Cylinder mounts for the hood actuators, then cascading downwards,the bonnet should sit lower meaning a host of small body tweaks. Plus wiring, plumbing, exhaust, charging the AC and tuning the engine. But at least the end is in sight.
Jim
Spent most of the day yesterday on two jobs.Admittedly they weren't really easy jobs but it doesn't seem like much to claim for your efforts. Anyway the first was the battery cable running from the alternator back to my main power post which is under the fuse and relay panel on the fenderwell. I used a 2 gage battery cable for that, heavily crimped the new end then soldered and heat shrunk both ends. That was routed down to the top of the frame rail and fitted with several inches of 5/8 heater hose where it passes the motor mount just for extra padding. May seem like overkill but that alternator has a capacity to put out 350 amps. Gage 2 should be adequate.
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The second was to add an arm to the bracket that locates the alternator, that arm going over to the AC compressor to do the same. I had apparently overlooked that part when I made up the serpentine drive but it should be fine now. Adequate clearances to the headers and the fenderwell.
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I did also get the big suction line in place and that was difficult. I'll need to see if I have a 1-1/16" crow's foot to try and tighten it down, and make sure I have clearance so I can easily remove the valve covers for valve adjustments. I had to trim my sheet metal cover that protects a bunch of electrical connections as it would not quite clear the new breaker for the heater fan motor otherwise. Lots of cascading details this time around, it's almost as much as doing a complete conversion.
Jim