So If I was planning on buying custom adjustable pushrods anyway, is there any reason I shouldn't just go ahead and use GM lifters?
A local guy has offered me two boxes of isky 202-HY that have been on his shelf for 10-15 years, so these are likely to still be of a good quality.... It just seems like the better "future proof" solution rather than Rv8 specific units?
Using a 50232 cam btw.
I have used the "chevy" lifters many times in the rv8 with good results.
There are some differences to be noted though.
The pushrod seat in the chevy lifter is around 0.050 inches deeper than the rv8. This means that you have 0.050 inches less preload
on the lifter if everything else remains unchanged.
The chevy lifter oils the valve train through the pushrod the rv8 does not. On some styles of aftermarket lifters the lack of this oil release to the valve train can cause the lifter to pump up.
The rv8 lifters have a hardened steel "foot" that most aftermarket lifters don't have. This gives the rv8 lifter a longevity advantage.
Some of the chevy lifters have the oil supply relief, around the circumference of the lifter, in a slightly different spot. On a higher lift cam or a reground cam this can expose the relief and cause an oil pressure loss.
So depending upon your specific combination the chevy lifters may work well. Measure everything and confirm the fit and you will be fine.
Cheers
Fred
jus' sayin, Art.
The other concern is the location of the oiling band in the lifter. I can't speak for Buick, but I know that many aftermarket Chevy lifters have an oil band that can become exposed in an Olds or Pontiac block when used with certain cam profiles. Of course that means zero oil pressure. Hilarity ensues.
With any aftermarket or cross-breed lifters, be sure to test assemble the motor and check for that oil band.
Buick 350 V8 lifters oil band is perfect.
I have used Crane 99284 lifters in my engines.
"Buick 350 V8 lifters oil band is perfect."
Agreed, but I assumed the OP was asking about using inexpensive SBC lifters.
Joe, if you go to an auto parts store and check, I don't think you would see much price difference between Chevy or Buick lifters.
If they work.....these seem cheap enough.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/buick,1975,regal,5.7l+350cid+v8,1294758,engine,valve+lifter,5548
If I'm reading it right . The lure is the NOS part. Lifters that were manufactured before the flat tappet world fell apart.
I don't know if the aftermarket has got a grip on their metallurgy yet, but it was pretty miserable a few years back.
In my opinion (the lovely Lynne said I could have one, this one time) no flat tappet engine should be run without Vizards Oil Extreme concentrate. I have not had a single failure since using it. Either it's really good or that voodo stuff I'm doing in the back yard is working.
Live like you mean it
Fred
I've begun using STP oil treatment.
I use diesel engine motor oil. It's supposed to have higher ZDDP (or whatever) content than gas engine oils. And run-in additives with new cam.
I use Valvoline VR1 racing oil, it's supposed to be high zinc. The cam and lifters were broke in back in 1997, so far so good.
Racing oil... has a low detergent content so it soon gets dirty. Fine if it's changed frequently, but not fine for the usual intervals.
I use Lucas Classic & Hotrod, a street oil with a high zinc content. https://lucasoil.com/hotrods-classic-cars
STP.... gosh that takes me back to the late 60s... the super gloopy stuff in a tin with a pull tab..... I used that in my first car, carried a can around and when the oil light came on I stopped and poured in another can...
Ivor
STP oil treatment for what purpose, Jim? From what I have read, that bottle does not have anywhere near enough ZDDP to raise the level in an engine. Most (maybe all) oil additives are snake oil.
If not using synthetic oil, Castrol Classic 20W-50 or Valvoline VR-1 20W-50 would be my choice.
Or, maybe we should be using a 10W-40. Interesting paper, "The selection of motor oil for classic Minis":
https://www.widman.biz/mini_pics/classic-mini-oil.pdf
I looked at it Carl, on Steve's recommendation and it looked like it was enough.
Jim
There is a "High Mileage" STP that has a higher Zinc content. That is what I used with Valvoline MaxLife 10-30in my old truck. Amzoil full synthetic in the new Ecoboost. Back to lifters. If you pay the extra money I think Johnson lifters are the best. Compare the oil band and hole on the Chevy vs Buick and you will see at high lift the oil. band and hole will be exposed above the lifter bore.
Where are y'all finding actual numbers, percentage or PPM for STP?
Well, here https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128597-stp-oil-treatment-with-zincdont-use-it/ it says STP has 5ppm, if that true it's not going to do much for you....
Lucas Hotrod & Classic -.... 2,100ppm https://www.lucasoil.co.uk/images/documents/Zinc_Values_MotorcycleOil.pdf
Pretty impressive that they publish all the info, you don't have to wheedle it out of their Marketing Dept.
Ivor
IDK, I just looked on the bottle.
Jim
It only sez it has ZDDP. Doesn't say how much or how little. ;)
Thanks for all the info on the lifters guys!
Always a school day in here. :-)
Cheers,
Every oil change I dump in a bottle of ZDDPlus. Buy them in bulk and they run around $8 a bottle. Have not had a cam failure since I started using it. There are other oils with more than enough to not have to add it, but this was the easy button for me. Yeah, watch out for the Chevy lifters if you want to run high lift cams. Not sure what lift they become a problem at, but I know that its a real problem. By the time you buy the cam, the valley pan gasket, the front cover gaskets, double row timing chain, oil and coolant change....just spend the few extra bucks and get good lifters.
I've heard that the ZDDP additive gets filtered out of the oil.
Jim