I have enough pieces together that I am test fitting the fit of an Explorer version of the Ford 5.0 into this rubber bumper GT. I fit the engine easy enough into the hole with no bell housing attached. Adding the bell housing I had to relieve a few spots with a BFH to all for clearance but I still can't fit the lump in the hole. The T5 I am using is from the later V6 Mustang. So it has the bell housing that is 1 inch longer. It also uses a 164t flywheel, as opposed to the 157t variety of V8 Mustangs.
I am using an engine leveler to try an tilt it in but if I go in to steep, the interference is between head on the firewall and the oil pan on the steering rack (see picture). If I go in to shallow, it seems like it can't fit. Seems like about 10* down to the back is optimal for best anle without head/rack interference. I have already cut away some heater box. Next step would be to trim the firewall near the steering but that shouldn't be necessary on the rubber bumper car.
Is my problem only that I need a new bell housing or am I looking at this all wrong? Any help would be appreciated.
EngineAngleMarkedupsmall.jpg
heatermods-small.jpg
Matt, I'm not following what the engine leveler has to do with the problem?
To see where the engine lands without engine bay mods ( other than the BFH on the trans tunnel), take a look at Graham Creswick's car in the photo gallery page.
My problem is during the install not the final position. Seems I need to move the engine far enough back to so the oil pan clears the rack, then lower the engine into position. However to move the engine back I need to tilt the bell housing downward so far that the angle is such that I have the interference described above.
To get the clearance i need, I would have to cut a major section out of the heater box, which I have not seen described.
I am left thinking that this bell housing with the longer length and the larger diameter flywheel must be the culprit.
I will pick up a more standard bell housing tuesday and see if it makes a difference.
Several of us have done the SBF conversion so we know that it can be made to fit without significant rework. It sounds as if the longer bellhsg may be the issue.
302firewallclearance1.jpg
Making the crossmember removeable will save aggravation in the long term. Make certain to weld in tubular sleeves for the bolts to pass through
DSC00642.JPG
DSC00639.JPG
DSC00641.JPG
Getting the engine and transmission in and out can also be aided by raising the back tires off the ground about 12-15".
once upon a time, I mounted the engine w/o the damper and installed it after. Also had to cut the front X member about 2" and reinforce it. The engine/ tranny went in w/o necessity of cutting the rear mount as earlier shown. As Graham noted, maybe the larger B/H is reason for mounting problem. I used a 93 5.0L/T5Z. My motor mounts were bolted in near the rear under #3 & #7 Plugs. This moved weight more to the rear.
Good Luck.
Wel, I finally got a bell housing from a 93 mustang and the engine/bell fit in just fine. So the 94/95 bell housing that 1" longer is seems to long to instill past the steering rack. I guess if you had the aftermarket crossmember with the repositioned rack it would work. Too bad because I had head that the extra inch positioned the shift lever quite close to stack.
Oh well, that is a minor issue...
Now, on to making engine mounts.
QuoteWel, I finally got a bell housing from a 93 mustang
Assume that you also got the matching T5 xsmn w/shorter input shaft .
I think you'll find that the shifter positioning is quite acceptable - on the order of 3/4" from stock.
T5shifterlocationc.jpg
As Graham pointed out, your v6 trans with the longer input shaft won't work with that bellhousing. You can easily swap a shorter input shaft in that trans as long as you can get one that matches the ratios of the trans you have. I swapped a shorter input in a 2001 v6 trans, it has the same 3.35 first gear as the v8 t5's.
I wasnt able to locate the correct transmission for that bell housing yet. I may end up swapping the input shaft of the t5 I have.
The position of you shifter looks perfect, thanks for the pics.
Are you going with EFI or switching to a carb? You probably know this, but you'll want to change the cam and valve springs on that motor. I'm running the Trick Flow TFS 1 cam, crane beehive springs, stock GT40P heads, Edelbrock RPM manifold with Holley 570 Street Avenger carb and a Fidanza aluminum flywheel. 345 hp at the crank.
Unfortunately, any high rise manifold including the Edlebrock RPM will probably require a hood scoop. i am using a Summit/Weiand stage 1 manifold which fits and works well. It seems a better design than the "stock replacement" Edlebrock manifold.
QuoteIt seems a better design than the "stock replacement" Edlebrock manifold
The Weiand 8124 and the Edelbrock 2121 are pretty similar and both will fit without hood mods. The "stock replacement" Edelbrock, however, has slightly larger porting.
I've had both an Edelbrock Performer 289 and an Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap on mine. All with no hood scoop. With the air gap, I had to use a drop base for the air cleaner and I also had to bend the top of the (manual) choke connection tab over so it didn't foul on the bottom of the air cleaner cover (I had less than 1/4" between the top of the carb and the underside of the air cleaner cover), but it worked.
I ported the Weiand 8124 and it seems to work well:
328 Hp at 6600 rpm (chassis dyno), Summit 600 CFM carb, AFR 165 heads, aluminum flywheel... The engine Healey Rick built is probably drives just as well or better because it probably has somewhat better low end torque than mine. Ford 302s can easily be customized...
Removable transmission crossmember does make life a lot easier!
For what it's worth, I did have to grind down some of the ribs on the top of the 94/95 mustang bell housing to get it to fit. I had forgotten that till I was reading this thread again.