I am pulling together my spring projects and one of them is to replace my current stock MG fuel line from the fuel pump to the engine bay. The stock fuel line is close to the right side exhaust pipe and even with several heat shields in place I occasionally have a vapor lock issue. Also it simply makes sense to replace the old fuel line, it's been on the ToDo list for years.
I purchased 3/8" aluminum line line and looking for input on the best route to run the fuel line and the best way and materials to keep it as cool as possible. This group has been great and I know there is some great advice out there.
3-8aluminumfuelline.jpg
I would suggest, and perhaps you already have, but research the issues with reformulated fuel and unprotected aluminum. I installed aluminum
fuel line on my TR6 project, and was delighted at the ease of bending. However, after the installation, I read numerous articles on the subject,
and decided to remove the aluminum just to eliminate a possible future issue. Since that time, I have replaced all of my braided fuel lines (feed and return lines) with PTFE lined hose, and even replaced the vent hose with a permeability rated hose. It was expensive, but I am hoping to eliminate what my daughter thinks is
a Triumph characteristic: fuel smell!
I also was reminded of something I think I already knew, that 10% ethanol gasoline does a pretty good job of cleaning the old varnish from fuel tanks. I reused my
original fuel tank without thinking, and after a short time, I noticed a distinct reduction in power. So much so, that full-throttle blasts (scientific demonstration, not
law-breaking juvenile activity) even resulted in backfiring. It turns out that all the accumulated "stuff" in the old tank was now in my 10 micron after pump filter!
I am still considering a constant use of 10% ethanol since there may be an occasion when that is all that is available, and I don't want the filter clogged
far from home. There, just some thoughts.
Dennis
I have aluminum fuel lines on all of my B's and others. One car since 1987 with no issues. Aluminum fuel lines are also used in aircraft. Make sure you have a good 37 degree flare if you are using AN fittings. Do not use compression type fittings.
If you have the space , make a coil with 3/5 circles, this will help you cool the fuel.
From the firewall to the fuel intake in the manifold either carb or FI, use braided hose, make sure it has some slack. Safety issue.
I'm also using aluminum line, no issues so far. We put it on the MG-Roadmaster too. If you are worried about it, Ni-Cop line is available in that size and is easy to work with, cost is about double.
I ran the lines in the original location and haven't had issues with it, but a regulator with a return located in the engine compartment would solve any vaporlock problems.
To eliminate fuel smell, you might install a charcoal canister and make it a (mostly) sealed system.
Jim
Thanks everyone. Keep the suggestions coming. I appreciate the help.
QuoteI purchased 3/8" aluminum line line and looking for input on the best route to run the fuel line...
Exactly what I used on my '68 Camaro & the MG Roadmaster. I ran it on the passenger side under the car. Bout all I remember. :)
I am running FI system and used the same alum. for the supply and the old line as my return. Ran the new alum. line long side of old line.
30K so far no issues.
I used it for both feed and return. 25k miles and most of gas around here is 10% ethanol. A couple of years ago I had to replace my fuel pump (in tank) - no signs of any corrosion.
Here's an excerpt from Fitech's throttle body EFI installation manual recommended never to use aluminum fuel lines. I've been using aluminum on occasion with no issues. What's the problem with aluminum?
"Only use hard fuel lines when using proper EFI rated flared fittings.
Make sure that you remove ALL low pressure flex joints on factory
fuel lines and replace them with EFI rated fuel hose and use proper
flared connections and clamps. Be careful not to mix 45° and 37°
AN fittings , they look similar but will not work together. 45° fittings
usually come from a hardware store or auto parts store while 37°
AN fittings are the ones supplied by Fitech and most speed shops.
Remember that your system will be running at 58 PSI so consult a
professional if you are not certain about this portion of your instal-
lation. Fitech does not recommend aluminum fuel lines EVER! "
Fair amount of misinformation in that. For instance the flared fittings. If using aluminum, copper and usually Ni-Cop as well, the flare will conform to the fitting so it makes little difference which angle it was flared, it will still work. Given that, I'd question their other statements as well.
Jim