I have most of the parts for the changes I'm planning & hope to start on them in the next few weeks. Planned are:
1. Cam swap
2. Edelbrock EFI swap
3. Transmission swap
Fastest/easiest approach would be to pull the motor/trans, change everything out, and then put it back. But, the EFI stuff still intimidates me - especially since it's a used kit that may have parameters stored from PO's motor that cause problems (till I figure out what they are). I'm thinking I'll bite the bullet & do it all at once anyway -- and then if I have problems and can't resolve after a while, switch back to the carb to rule out the EFI stuff.
Make sense? Or would you do it in a different sequence?
I'd get the car running on a carb so that the cam breaks in properly before you go messing with the EFI.
Agree with Todd, get the engine running with new cam and break in complete. Roller cams are not too tedious. Maybe do the Tranny change ( can it be done w/o R&I engine?). Cam change in car and then do the EFI. Once the Tranny and cam done, the EFI should present no problem You all ready have the fuel system, just follow the install sequence and the EFI should LEARN your parameters. I'm sure the ECM has reverted back to the default setting due to losing power for so long. Would not think the base programing has been modified. Does the EFI have 2 O2 or 1 O2 sensors?. Need the Bungs for them and weld in. Maybe your A/F meters bungs will suffice. Keep us advised.
x3. I wouldn't want to be fiddling with EFI tuning while bedding in a new cam.
I am confused here, Rob's engine details spell out roller lifters. That would eliminate the concern that accompanies flat tappet lifters wouldn't it?
I hope so, because that is the scenario I have, and I had no concern about the lifter/cam interface.
Dennis
Call Edelbrock and see if they can walk you through returning the pcm to factory setting or if they could do it if you sent it to them. Might avoid chasing a lot of gremlins having a known baseline.
Jim - I'd already made contact with them & they'll walk me through it on the phone when I'm ready. Couldn't do it the day I called as it needs to be powered up & connected to the various sensors for the reset to work is what they said.
Good point, Dennis. I have never had a roller cam, so I always think old school cam break-in. :)
I did a little research and comp cams still recommends high zddp for break in. Their rationale is most people are installing the cam in less than sterile engine building areas. So grit or other debris can end up inside and stop a lifter from rolling momentarily as it drags the grit over a cam lobe. High ZDDP they say keeps it from scratching the cam. Seems unlikely to me but since they recommend it, that's what I'll do.
Correction: I have installed quite a few cams over the years, but only hydraulic & solid flat tappet. Seems my 2000 Silverado has a hydraulic roller cam. Wish it was in my Camaro. :)
I had not heard of a specific technique for a new roller cam, so in the interest of learning something, I Googled the subject.
Well, much to my surprise, there are some concerns, especially in newly rebuilt engines. It seems the minute particles released from ring seating can contaminate the roller bearings and the cam/roller interface! Ha! Even an elderly person as myself can learn - albeit slowly. As to the less than sterile shop; who's isn't? Us mere mortals don't generally have access to the clean rooms of NASCAR.
Oh yes, the article also said that contrary to the experience of a flat tappet cams failing immediately, roller cams take a little longer. And just when I thought I had it made!
Well, I read the 540rat article on oils, and I'm using the Valvoline 5W-30 MaxLife for the pressure rating, and have changed it once already. I also put a salvaged computer hard drive magnet on my oil filter - probably a waste of time, but I had it, and who knows?
Dennis
OK, I got the cam, timing cover gasket set, and intake gasket set. Travelling for a couple weeks then hope to get working on the car again. Will need to pick up some assembly lube and break in oil. Am I forgetting anything?
Degree wheel?
Rob, Did you get the smaller MSD distributor cap too?