In searching for the perfect home for my new remote oil filter, I ended up here on the inside fender surface just above the engine adapter. I know most weld a bracket here but I am wondering why that is even necessary. Since the pump is doing the work, it would seem that gravity plays no real role. Other than managing a little mess when removing the filter, why can't I just bolt it in this position? It's a straight shot with no elbows and the hoses clear the radiator hose.
Thoughts?
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its certainly simple and direct if you don't have a problem with dirty oil in the engine compartment and trying to clean the mess after an oil change. never have understood why an oil filter should be upside down or sideways. manufacturers apparently do it to save a dime
I came out the bottom of the adapter, and ran hoses under the frame to a spot behind the headlight. That way you can mount it right side up for easy changing. Also removes the heat from the engine bay.
Mike
I did the same as Mike.
Same here as Mike and Rob. Easy, mess free oil changes.
Same here, just cleaner. Just remove wheel change filter reinstall wheel. I guess, I could change filter without removing wheel.
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Mounted mine on the passenger side radiator support just behind the grill. Simply remove three screws that hold the grill and easily access the oil filter for removal.
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Some people have used a GM "metric" adapter on the oil filter base that allows the filter to be mounted on the engine at such an angle that it clears the steering rack and eliminates the need for a remote filter. You might want to see if it will work on your installation.
The "Metric" filter base works very well with widened frame rails for a wide radiator and a forward engine position. I used it on my 340 and I think we have one on the 455 in the Roadmaster. I don't think it is the answer here, though I could be wrong. However, there are a couple of other mounts that Buick used, actually a pretty good variety of them, and I believe there is one that does work pretty well.
We really should try to put together a series of reference photos and make it a part of a reference library in some way. I know this problem has been solved without resorting to hoses. Although the most common solution seems to be the D&D swiveling filter base, I am quite certain there is a factory part that does work.
Jim
D&D swivel base & 7/8" sway bar.
(http://www.britishv8.org/MG/CarlFloyd/CarlFloyd-D.jpg)
QuoteSome people have used a GM "metric" adapter on the oil filter base that allows the filter to be mounted on the engine at such an angle that it clears the steering rack and eliminates the need for a remote filter. You might want to see if it will work on your installation.
Yep, certainly worth a try.
To make it work on my car, I only had to hammer a ~3/8" deep dent into the inboard side of the frame. No cutting. No welding.
(With modified MGB radiator mounted between rails...)
(http://www.britishv8.org/mg/CurtisJacobson/CurtisJacobson-Dc.jpg)
(Cutting/welding came later, when I installed a "Sirocco" radiator above the rails.)
(http://www.britishv8.org/mg/CurtisJacobson/Ignition-A3.jpg)
For reference, both radiators were positioned directly above the sway bar, not forward of it.
Curtis
Where did you locate a take off for a line to an oil pressure guage? I am trying to get away without a remote filter. Unfortunately I have already painted the engine bay. It will be a shame to bang up the frame rail even though it will be hard for anyone to see.
Thanks
Lorne
Here's a pic of my setup. I'll add my vote to the wheel well/headlight location.
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I found a spray paint that is a reasonably close match to body color and bought a six pack. I use it as touch up paint in hidden areas, under the body and hood.
Jim
Lorne wrote:
QuoteCurtis
Where did you locate a take off for a line to an oil pressure guage?
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An often little considered fact, oiling systems need to be "self bleeding". By that I'm referring to air locks in the system.
Exactly the same as cooling systems or any other fluid transfer system.
With a line that is held too high or an upside down oil filter for example, an air bubble or embolism can become trapped and be released at a very inopportune time. Generally leading to an inexplicable bearing failure.
To properly use an inverted oil filter you must use an extension tube inside the filter to allow it to fill and bleed fully.
Oil lines and cooler orientation should promote air evacuation.
And during an oil change it's advantageous to have the oil lines and coolers self drain. Often this requires the use of a bleed valve.
Most newer vehicles have an automatic bleed built into the filter housing that dumps everything into the oilpan when the filter is removed. So pull the filter first before you drain the pan.
Hope thats helpfull.
Fred