I finished a numbers matching AH 3000 a few years ago and I have enough spare parts to build another car but I would like to replace the inlne 6 with a 302 Ford I have in my shop. I haven`t seen anyone who has done that, I have seen 289`s but no 302`s. Is there some reason why a 302 won`t work in a Healey.
Externally, the 289 and 302 are the same
I know I just have never seen a 302 Ford in a Healey tons of Chevrolets and others but no 302`s. It seems like such a good swap was wondering why no one has ever done it. I can build a good strong streetable 302 with a carb and intake put a 4 speed behind it and be good to go.
Interesting. The one Healey I looked at closely was a SBC and had a header interference problem that looked largely unsolvable. At least I didn't want to tackle it. Is the 302 a little narrower?
Jim
Jim, The SBF is a lot narrower than the SBC, even narrower than the 215. Plus about 100 lbs lighter. Years ago they weren't too popular in street rods because of front sump pan, long water pump and oil filter location. The newer rear(actually twin) sump pan, Explorer water pump and either Econoline swivel oil filter or remote setup solved those problems. The popularity of the 5.0 in Mustangs also brought the cost of aftermarket parts down.
Look no further: http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,8264 Feel free to ask any questions you have.
That's exactly what I needed Rick thanks a million just as soon as I finish this airplane I am doing I am going to get started. Did you flare your fenders any? I already have a set of Mike Lemperts rear end gears that I was going to use so I can use them in this car. My swap should go a little easier as I have both front and rear shrouds off, fenders, hood trunk lid interior and everything out and in my toy box where I keep things. My engine is a fuel injected 302 with no fuel pump pad so I will use an electric pump in the trunk. I already have an Edelbrock performer manifold and 600 holly. I will go back with a Comp Cams 270 HR and just do some port work and gasket matching on the heads, flat pistons and balance it, just a good street motor. I have to do some frame repair to the frame so I will toss the stock engine towers and either use Tiger manifolds or make up my own headers. Hopefully I can get the frame sandblasted and get started in the spring.
Skip,
Nope, my fenders aren't flared. Only reason I went with the Tiger manifolds was because I wanted to keep the engine towers. They are getting kind of rare, might not be that easy of a find. One of them is a standard Fairlane manifold, but the other side (sorry, I don't remember which side is which and I'm away from the car right now) is a Tiger-only piece. If you can build your own headers, I might go that way. Enjoy your build.
Skip, and others,
I am putting a 302 (97 Explorer) in a TR6, and wanted a header that didn't have the four tubes going to the collector in one location. I stumbled on the Patriot H8482-1 on a hotrod site. The port tubes each angle to the rear before connecting at the collector. They are available through Summit, but searching their site doesn't seem to bring them up, use the part number to find them. They are coated, and fairly reasonable (as if there is such a thing) at $375.97.
In my case, I had a conflict that angling the header slightly toward the starter would help, and I found a machine shop with a "platen grinder", or "table grinder" and he ground the port surface slightly on an angle, which gave me what I wanted. Anyway, have a look at the part and see if it would help.
Dennis
One other thing to consider with headers is the tube size, You'll probably have to remove more of the footbox to make them fit than with something narrow like the cast iron manifolds, which in turn narrows the space available for your feet. Not so big a deal with an automatic, but if you're going three pedal (like every hot rod sports car is supposed to be) it can get a little tight. I had to move my high beam control from the floor to the dash and as it is, I don't have room to rest my left foot besides the clutch. A bit annoying on a long trip, but a small price to play. Everytime you change something, there's always about ten more changes downstream you never considered.
Once I get the chassis blasted and on the stand in my shop I will get a dummy block and heads and go from there. I will remove the mount towers and weld in new engine mounts and set the block and heads. In restoring antique airplanes and cars over the years I am lucky to have my own machine and sheet metal shop in my restoration shop. I am going to replace both frame rails with 2X3 box tubing. I have a 1/2 thick sheet of steel that I lock the frame down on to keep everything in alignment so it all goes back together like it is supposed to.
See my last post for 302 AH3000