in my auto shop class we have learned many shop safety rules and once a month we do a shop safety meeting we all sigh in and talk about any rules we need clarified or that we saw where not fallowed that month. so i am doing my auto shop final on my car and i wanted to have some pics of the car that inspired me to start the conversion in the first place, witch is Bill Jacobson's car witch i am sure u all have seen its really amazing and i hope one day i can have my car looking as good as his. but what am i to do when i see this he used 2 by 4s on his lift under his car witch is clearly a shop safety hazard! haha i am only teasing of course, if you looked in my garage there would be a few safety hazards u could point out... now if u will exuse me i am going to go fix thos before anyone sees my mistakes haha and posts a thing about them (:
for copy right stuff the pic is Bill Jacobson's car here is a link to view his car
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BillJacobson.htm
BillJacobson-DX.jpg
4x2s are OK so long as the load is across the grain, not along it. Used a lump of teak atop my trolley jack saddle for years and years.
There might be a square inch or two of my car would clean up like that lol
Ivor
QuoteUsed a lump of teak atop my trolley jack saddle for years and years....
Must be an-teak!
well in the safety video and book for the lifts it said no wood at all or any other things like cinder blocks or bits of old tire. we where talking about in my class that if u did use wood and something happened they say it was your fault and insurance wouldn't cover it because u used wood on the lift
I always use a square of plywood between the jack and the jacking point. I think it is less likely to slip and also helps to prevent damage. I don't know, I never really thought this to be risky behavior.....
I'm no expert, but if wood works here, I'd think it would be OK for our cars.
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Wow, they actually moved that brick house!
Carl,
That one was a piece of cake!
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You're right Tristan,
OSHA, ANSI and the ALI forbid any type of blocking on a vehicle lift.
Cu-do's to your instructor for getting you guys started off on the right foot.
The ALI specifically states that "if the vehicle can not be properly placed on a lift using only the manufacturers supplied adapters. Then you must use another lift that fits correctly."
I have never had a vehicle fall from a hoist in 35+ years in this trade, but I have seen a few fall and it's not pretty.
4000 or so pounds of metal move a lot faster than you would think.
Insurance companies won't touch you with a ten foot pole if they find blocks on your lift. (you are covered for hoist use aren't you?)
And where I live workers comp will shut you down and require re-certification if they see it.
I know that lots of guy's want to protect their hard work from damage.
And I'm one of them.
But wood blocks are a very bad choice.
They split, flex and slide when oily or wet.
I would rather have a scratch on my frame than be painted the injury colour (flat black).
Cheers
Fred
yes we had to get a 100% oh all the safety test for all the tools we use and general shop safety and we go over it for the first mouth for the Insurance companies so we are covered (:.if we got anything less than a 100% we have to retake that test till we do get a 100% and we cant go in the shop till we finish all the tests
I have watched houses being moved here, but they are smaller non-brick veneer houses.
Corvairs used to fall from the back end of lifts. Guys would position them on the lift with the rear of the car extending further off the back of the lift than the front of the lift, same as they did with a standard car where most of the weight (engine/trans) is in the front.
I didn't see it happen but I saw the end result once of one that came off while the lift was fully extended.