Updated
Mike, How is there room for the oil pump? I remember a post a while back about a special front cover with gerotor crank driven oil pump like later Buick/Rover. Found it: http://www.racemate.com/
There isn't. It's going in the garbage. Oh well, I'll chalk it up to a good attempt.
I've been talking to mustang guys about doing that modification for quite a while, and no one mentioned anything about an oil pump. I should have pulled the old pan before I spent the time on the new one. If that's the worst mistake I make, I'll be happy.
See, this is why I need people to tell me I'm on the wrong track. LOL.
Thanks.
I'd keep the pan and use the front oil pump cover if you can afford it. On your project page you show a sleeve for outer wheel bearing. You maybe able to use a smaller outer bearing and sleeve the hub(interference fit .002) for the smaller race, much better way.
I can't find info on how to actually buy that front oil pump system. I'm guessing it's quite pricey.
Hey MGB260, what's better about sleeving the hub to use a smaller bearing?
The inner bearing race is very hard and precise to run directly on the spindle. The outer angled race is very hard and precise to run on the outer bearing race. By sleeveing the hub which is cast iron (trailer hub) the relationship between the rotating parts is as designed. Your spacer would heat up and spin and destroy itself in no time. If you used chrome moly, interference fit, instead of mild steel for the spacer it may work. You may be able to find a bearing that has the smaller inner hole/larger outside race. I've done this sort of thing for a while. I really like your caliper adapter.
here are some pics of the new subframe I made using 1.5 square tubing mainly.
it bolts to the stock mounting points and uses the 1.5 tube for the lower link mounting point.
the front sway bar mounting point is identical to stock .
the steering rack is approx. 1 inch lower and slightly forward of stock doesn't appear to be a problem.
it clears the front hump of the stock mustang oil pan though not by much it is just behind it.
I made the trans. mount first using the stock ford mount the shifter is perfect in the existing hole.i have the car sitting on the new setup right now waiting for a set of block hugger ford headers to arrive to look at the next hurdle.
good luck
glenn
Thanks Glenn. I think I have things lined up pretty well with the stock cross member and the stock ford oil pan. I moved my engine about 1/2" further forward, and all seems good now.
Sounds like it's too late but early Broncos used a rear sump pan. This Bronco pan from Milodon has more space between the sumps than the typical fox body double sump oil pan.
http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/product/milodon-major-oil-pan-kit-oil-pan-pick-up-tube-dip-sticktube-289-or-302-new
Dan Jones
Dan, thanks for the suggestion, but every Milodon and Moroso pan I've looked at has too deep of a rear sump. The Fox pan is 7.5" deep including the drain plug, and that Milodon pan is 10" deep. It would be way to close to the ground.
I made 80% of the motor mount supports off my subframe / k-member yesterday, and it's looking good. I wish I hadn't scrapped out the k-members from the parts cars I've had over the years.
The next question will be, how many stock TR7 drivetrains to keep. I have a complete 4 speed and now the compelete 5 speed (engine, transmission, driveshaft, rear end). I'll probably never use either of them again, but that's what I said about the k-members that I wish I had back. If I had space, I'd keep everything. That's just not a practical option.
I've been plugging along as time and family commitments have allowed.
I'm close to being ready to bolt the engine into place. Here are some pictures of the k-member. The driver's side setup is a bit convoluted to clear the steering, but it's plenty strong and looks decent.
The driver's side motor mount was touching the header, and the passenger side was too close for comfort, so I trimmed the corners off and made some stainless heat shields to protect the rubber.
I had this all set up to use the stock mustang oil pan, but it was pretty tight. I decided to give myself a little more clearance between the pan and the steering rack with a tweak to the pan. This time, my pan modification actually fits on the engine!
I have the engine, clutch, and transmission assembled together now, and I weighed it all last night. 538lbs. Missing from that weight is an air cleaner, water tubes (to feed the heater core), wiring, alternator, pulleys, and belt.
I'm working on cleaning up the engine bay before final engine installation.
Once I get my garage cleared out a bit, I'll weigh the stock TR7 assembly for comparison.
Mike, your photos aren't coming through. Probably they are larger than the 600Kb limit and need to be resized. Curtis has guidelines for doing that on a thread posted here somewhere.
Jim
Yeah, the preview wan't working for me, and after I posted the message I saw that the pictures were all goofed up. They should be fixed now. I have them in photobucket.
mike
I am curious as to how high your engine is going to be in the car with that setup
I have 5.5 inches of ground clearance to the drain plug on the oilpan
if you look at the front of my engine and draw a level line with the bottom of the block where the oil pan bolts to over to the frame rail
the mounting point is 1.5 inches lower where the stock k frame would bolt to
in your picture with the oil filter it appears that you are going to have 4+ inches to the same point
that is why I abandoned the idea of the mounts on the k frame and went to the frame rails instead with removable mounts
the actual mounts are stock 1990 bronco
if someone can tell me how to resize pictures for this post I will put them up
glenn
I'm not 100% set on height yet. I may need 1/2" to 3/4" spacers to drop the k member down. That will depend on what I need for air cleaner clearance. The rear drain plug on the pan is about flush with the k member. I have a short intake manifold (edelbrock performer). It's nothing high performance, but it will give the best fit. I had it sitting in the engine bay with about 3" clearance from the air cleaner mouting flange to the hood. A regular 14" air cleaner with a drop base just barely fit under the slope of the hood. I think I'm going to end up with a Spectre plenum style air filter setup. I have the old TR7 hood without the extra little bump in the middle, and I don't want to modify it.
I should end up with 5 to 5.5 pan and k member clearance.
Mike, Who's headers are you using? I have been considering Sanderson block hugger FF2 for a more rearward exit.
Thanks,
Dennis
They're Speedway block huggers.
Took a look at those Sanders headers, and I don't think they would work for me. They must go outboard of the starter, which woud hit my "framerail" (unibody, of course). There's a small window where I could have the headers come out. I figured I needed something that came forward a bit on the passenger side, and headed down in front of the starter. Then the pipe needs to route under the starter. I didn't find any long tube headers that went under the starter (spent many many hours looking).
Those Speedway block huggers are tight to the mounts and tight to the starter, but they point where I want them. I can just barely slip the mini starter in and out with the header in place.
Here's the header and starter fit. It's tight.
I figured I couldn't use headers that headed much outboard of the starter, which meant they needed to route somewhat under the starter.
Mike,
Thanks very much for the detailed explanation. Those who may be contemplating a project like this, and I, appreciate it!
Dennis
I weighed the TR7 engine assembly, and it was 471 without fluids and without the alternator (comparable parts to what was on the 302 when I weighed it). I'm gaining about 70lbs with the 302, which isn't too bad in my mind. A set of aluminum heads would even it up pretty well.
I'm continuing to make some progress on my project. I made a new engine wiring harness. I used all the correct colors from the Triumph wiring diagram, which Triumph didn't even do. Eliminated some things, and added some things. I still haven't decided whether I'm mounting my MSD 6AL in the engine bay or inside the car, but either way, I have wiring planned out.
I replaced the entire the brake system except for the Triumph brake pedal with new stuff. Hopefully it all works well together.
With that done, I was ready to put the engine and transmission in. It's all bolted up now and I'm quite happy with it.
I ended up with 3/4" spacers for the front cross member to achieve a little hood clearnace to the air intake and to the distributor.
This past weekend, I made the transmission mount and finished my steering linkage. I also finished the front strut upgrades.
Last night, I drug home another 8.8 rear end. This one is rust free, which is hard to find around here. I have a couple rusty ones, but I don't want to use them for this project.
sorry, pics gone from photobucket
Oh, I also ended up removing the new water pump I had installed. I decided I need the shorter ford racing pump.
Any tips on what size or type of radiator to buy? I've been looking at 26x19 from Summit or Speedway, which would be a very tight squeeze. I'd prefer to be 17"or 18" tall, but they are less common. My "frame" rails are 26 1/4, so I'm targetting something 25 to 26 wide.
I have one with a 26X19 and a couple with 26X16. The 26X16 works better, as the 19" hangs too low. $180 from Summit. What did you do for front hubs, strut tubes, etc. to get the 5 lug? On mine, I went with redrilled SD1 stuff to match the 8.8 in the back. Made finding wheels easy.
Todd, is that a Griffin radiator? That's what I'm seeing on Summit.
My front hubs are actually trailer hubs that I've done some machining on. Ford 5 x 4.5 pattern. The strut tubes are stock, except for changing out the spring seat. If my wheels fall off, I'll make something different.
Yes, just looked them up and they are $173. Go to summit and search radiators 26X16. You get 8 to choose from depending on where you want your inlets and outlets. I'm curious about the trailer hubs. Do they use the same stock tiny wheel bearings? I went with SD1 so I could get bigger spindles, bearings, and hubs, not to mention the 5 lugs. Had to weld the 5 on 5 shut and redrill to 5X4.5. The bigger hubs messed with the offset, but that was easy to work out. It also gave me a natural 1* of negative camber. Had to shorten the tubes. Went with Cherokee rotors and willwood calipers. Never ever going to do it that way again. I have come up with something much cleaner, easier, and lighter now. Check out Lorenze's TR8 in the build section. He was my guinea pig.
http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,42113
That should link you to the project journal I had going before I started this thread. It shows my hub setup.
The inner bearing and seal are identical. The outer bearing is bigger with a spacer to make up the difference, but the spindle is stock.
I've had quite a few TR7's and never seen any issues with the tiny outer bearings or spindles. Do people upgrade to larger bearings and spindles because it seems smart, or because they have actually had failures? Don't get me wrong, I spent a lot of time thinking about how to ditch the TR7 spindles, but I didn't have it on my "must do" list.
If there is info on 8.8 rear installation, I could use some good ideas for that too. I have a mustang 8.8 with the round ears cast into the center section. I'm hoping I can make those work in the TR7.
Following your built with great interest....That SBF looks awesome sitting in the engine bay....Amazing work, great pictures and write up...
Ken
I finished installing a new oil pressure gauge tonight. I'm pretty pleased with the match to the original gauges.
Looks very good Mike.
I'm getting down to the details on the engine installation. Feels pretty good to see things coming together and actually fitting!
I just received the radiator Todd recommended as well as the long bolts I needed to finish up the water pump and alternator installation.
I'm now working on fitting my radiator. I decided I better go with a remote pressurized coolant tank, and I cut the radiator cap fitting off the top of my new radiator. I kept the vent port, and welded a cap on to the cut-off radiator cap port. I'm not the best aluminum welder as I don't do it every day, but it came out pretty well.
I'm inching closer on my project.
I've gotten these things done in the past month or so:
1) 8.8 rear end narrow / rebuild / install
2) Rear disk brakes & parking brake setup
3) Stainless exhaust
4) Radiator mounts
5) Fan & fan controller installation
6) Accessory belt drive
7) Cold air intake / air filter
8) Finish wire harness in engine bay
This should be about all that's left to give it an initial startup:
1) Finish radiator hose & top tank installation
2) Install driveshaft (ordered yesterday)
3) Finish front suspension assembly
4) Finish some wiring under the dash
5) Bleed brakes
6) Make an engine dipstick and put oil in everything
7) Get a charcoal canister for my tank vent
Heck, I ought to be able to get that all done this weekend. : )
This is a great thread/project! I hope you keep taking and posting lots of photos.
Before I tucked it into place, I got a shot of my upper radiator suppor support. The top of the fan is also mounted there.
Santa left a package on my doorstep today.
image.jpg
It was made by PST, and it looks great. I just ordered it Monday.
Looks great Mike. Was wnondering whose brake master cylinder you were using?
Ed, it's for a 1994 Ford Ranger / Explorer. 1" bore size. I selected it after looking at many many options. It was inexpensive and easily replaced (as long as I remember what it is). I like the look of it compared to many of the other options I checked out.
Mike, sent you a PM.
Ed
Mike, Looks like a little late night thrashing could get you to Carlisle Kitcar Import show in a couple weeks, lol. We'll be there Friday to Sunday. Mike
Mike,
I was at Carlisle with this same TR7 in about 1996. I will have to think about heading down there again.
Well, I started it up and managed to drive it 0.7 miles this weekend. The brakes barely work at this point, so I just went around the block to see how everything else worked.
Other than brake headaches, the startup went smoothly and I am very happy with everything. The Magnaflow XL mufflers sound perfect to me. They aren't very loud, but sound healthy. If anyone wants a somewhat quiet car, I'd recommend these mufflers.
The weather should be nice for the next few days, so I'll keep plugging away at it and will plan to get a video of it running in the next few days.
On the brake issue, I continually get lots of air out of the front calipers. I literally bled a gallon of fluid through them last night. I've tried vacuum bleeding, vacuum and pumping together, and pumping by itself. Tonight, I plan to pull the pads out, let the pistons extend, and then push fluid back up into the master cylinder by sqeezing the pistons back in.
I was able to improve the brakes considerably last night. I did the piston extension and retraction process a few times. It empties about half of the fluid reservoir, and then I pushed everything back into the reservoir. I then did some bleeding by pushing the pedal very very slowly (my 9 year old daughter actually did the pedal work, and she enjoyed helping).
It probably still has a bit of air, but it feels safe to drive now. I'll bleed it again tonight if I can get it on the road for a few miles.
The only other issue I have is that the 10si alternator seems to have died. It charged for a few minutes and then quit. I'll check the wiring and the ground, and replace it if necessary. I customized the bolt pattern on it, so I'd have to swap the front housing onto the a one.
Mike, Did you bench bleed the master first?
Hey Mike,
If the wiring checks out OK.
Check the belt tension. It sounds dumb but we fix lots of burnt out alternators just by tightening the belt.
Then you can quickly test the alternator by full fielding it.
This is done through a small "D" shaped hole in the rear housing.
Just insert a small screwdriver into the "D" hole and ground the tab inside.
If the alt starts to charge then all that's wrong is the regulator.
A rebuild kit is available for these alternators.
They are cheap @ around $20.00 and rebuilding is ridiculously easy.
Cheers
Fred
" Posted by: mgb260
Date: May 06, 2014 05:22PM
Mike, Did you bench bleed the master first?"
No, I did not. I am guessing I should have. Will I get there without taking it off and bench bleeding it now?
"Date: May 06, 2014 08:46PM
If the wiring checks out OK.
Check the belt tension. It sounds dumb but we fix lots of burnt out alternators just by tightening the belt.
Then you can quickly test the alternator by full fielding it.
This is done through a small "D" shaped hole in the rear housing.
Just insert a small screwdriver into the "D" hole and ground the tab inside.
If the alt starts to charge then all that's wrong is the regulator.
A rebuild kit is available for these alternators.
They are cheap @ around $20.00 and rebuilding is ridiculously easy.
Cheers
Fred"
Fred,
Thanks. I'll try snugging up the belt. It does charge a little bit regardless of whether the field and sense connections are hooked up. It looks like it's spinning fine, but
I can swap it for a rebuilt one at AdvanceAuto for about $22. My front cover is customized to fit the Ford bracketry, so I'll have to swap covers if I get a different alternator. I should probably just put a regulator in the one I have since I have to take it apart anyway.
I have heard of that full field test, but also heard it can burn things up. I'll try it. If the alternator burns up, then I'll get another one. Hopefully that hole isn't blocked by my cylinder head.
Mike, You can do the bench bleeding on the car. Just loosen the brake line fitting slightly one line at a time. Have container or stack of rags underneath. Have a helper push the pedal down to the floor and hold it. Tighten fitting and do the same on the other one. You may have to do it 2 or 3 times. Don't let the master cylinder get low. Then do normal bleeding, starting with farthest from master cylinder. Right rear, then left rear, then passenger front, then driver front normally.
http://youtu.be/74GUj20Zsb4
Not sure if this link will work, but I'll try.
http://youtu.be/Ico0i6m3yuA
This isn't a great video, but the sound is more representative.
Mike, Car looks and sounds great!
Here are some pictures of how the underside turned out. You will see I added a 3/16 plate and large washer to the center of my k-member. The thin k-member was really beat up from years of jack use. The plate gives a nice solid surface to lift under, and the washer is sized to fit a bottle jack in the center or floor jack around the outside. I usually use a bottle jack on my lift, and it's nice having a secure spot to locate it.
Above the axel, the tail pipes are about 1.5" from my fuel tank. I decided to put some insulation on them. In my usual fashion, I have two different styles on of insulation to see which one works better. Driver side has aluminum faced fiberglass, and the passenger side has header wrap. So far, both are working just fine.
What a great build...Congrats Mike...
Thanks. My wife is probably wondering why this was done in 6 months, but the bathroom isn't done after several years. Oh well.
QuoteMy wife is probably wondering why this was done in 6 months, but the bathroom isn't done after several years.
Do you have a good answer, one that she will accept? If so, please share it, we all could use it.
Hah, not really. My kids are convinced I ordered an entire car via UPS and FedEx boxes.
I've driven the car about 10 miles now. Once the bugs are worked out and I quit worrying about it, it is going to be a very fun car.
The alternator seems to be doing ok now. I snugged up the belt, so maybe that was part of the problem. It still takes quite a while to get going (voltage goes up really slowly after startup), but it does get there eventually.
The brakes are going to be fine. The passenger side front caliper still had some air coming out on my last bleeding attempt. The other three are finally flowing with no bubbles. Even as they are now, the brakes feel incredible compared to the stock TR7 setup.
Looks great Mike!
Question - How loud are those pipes?
On my V8 conversion, I did a two into one, with resonator and muffler. Sounds great with the top down, but is very loud in the cab with the top up at 60mph (a deep drone). I'm thinking I might look for something to quiet everything down.
(My build: http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?3,37579 )
M.
Martin,
I've looked at your thread quite a bit over the past several months. Your car looks great.
Mine turned out quieter than I expected and I would say it's worth trying that muffler type. (Magnaflow XL). I used part number 13265, which was the biggest one I could fit. The bigger the muffler volume, the quieter it is (for the same style muffler). I linked a couple youtube videos earlier in this thread, if you didn't notice them.
I need to make a decision on rear end gears, so I was paying attention to noise at different cruise speeds. I consider it to be very quiet on the road up to a certain RPM (probably 2200-2400). My tach isn't working, so I can't give a good answer on that. I should receive my tach signal adapter today, so it should be working soon.
I had a monza exhaust when I was running the stock 2.0 engine, and it seemed quite a bit louder and almost annoying on the road compared to my new setup.
There are quite a few things I need to dial in and fine tune, but the exhaust isn't one of them. I had planned on adding additional mufflers in the middle of the car if I needed them, but that's one thing I won't need to do.
Mike, I don't know what you have for rear gears now but, the 3.55 is about right for the Ford T5. 3.35 first x 3.55 rear = 11.89. 11-12 being ideal for first. 3.55 x .68 fifth = 2.41. Excellent cruising gear.
Hi Mike...
How's the shakedown going...Dying to hear ...
I haven't touched it in the past week. It's sitting in my garage looking pretty right now. I've had the drivetrain in my '54 chevy all apart, but that should be buttoned up tonight.
I've got about 150 miles on the TR7, without any conversion / build related issues. I want a quieter fuel pump, but that's no big deal. The brakes and suspension are just right for what I want. I put 150lb springs in the front, and it's very nice. Roads around here are crappy, so I don't want any stiffer suspension than that. With the adjustable spring seats, I was able to set the ride height right where I wanted it.
I had it at a car show over Memorial Day weekend, and it was a hit.... "looks professional" "looks like it came in the car"
That's how I build stuff.
Issues to tackle:
1. Change rear end gears (I used the 4.10's that were in the axle I bought).
2. Low-ish oil pressure when hot. I used a "free" 302 from a parts car I bought, and of course, I should have put bearings and an oil pump in it. It had (and still has) good oil pressure for the first few miles of driving, but I must have never got the oil hot when I was evaluating the engine for re-use in this conversion. My plan was to make sure everything worked out with the conversion, and then swap in another engine if I wanted to. That's a pretty easy job, but it can get expensive. I'm trying to decide whether I want to put an oil pump and bearings into this engine, or whether I should just bite the bullet and build a fresh engine with aluminum heads. I will probably invest another Saturday and $100 into the current engine before I start shopping for a new one.
Sound amazing...Congrats Mike...
Will start mine I Sept...Have most driveline parts...Purchased a drivetrain out of an 89 Cobra (everything but the diff) with 42000 km on it (Tree fell on it and wrote it off) already converted to carb and MSD dizzy...Just the Diff to locate now....You sure set the bar pretty high but provide a great example of how to do it right...
> Purchased a drivetrain out of an 89 Cobra
The first year for the Mustang Cobra 5.0L was 1993. Are the heads GT40 iron castings and do they have Ford part number bolt down 1.7:1 roller rockers?
Dan Jones
Well, I've swapped out the 4.10 gears for a set of 3.15's. The new ratio is great for my setup, and my driving style. I had trouble getting desirable contact patterns on both drive and coast side, and I compromised on the cost side. Sure enough, it whines when I'm coasting. Oh well. If I get sick of it, I'll have to spend $150 on another set of gears (probably more common 3.08's next time).
I'm also working on putting in new seats today. I have brackets just about done for the conversion. I got "real leather" racing seats from Amazon for around $350. Upon inspection, the seating surfaces and side bolsters are indeed real leather. They look pretty nice. I'll post some pictures later today.
Here are the new seats. I'm pretty happy with them.
I have the 8.8 back apart after 40 miles, and I think I have resolved my issues. I'm going to put new spider gears in while its apart this time, so I'm waiting for those to come in the mail now.
There was no Foxbody "Cobra" in the U.S. until the '93 Cobra but many GT's in CANADA were labeled "Cobra GT" from 84-92.
If the car is from Canada it can be a "Cobra GT".....There is no mechanical difference between it and a "standard" U.S. Mustang GT and is not a higher performance vehicle than a "standard" GT....
Here is a Canadian window sticker from a 1990 Cobra GT
90cobragtws.jpg
Mike,
What did you have to do to get the explorer master cylinder to fit? Got any pics?
Mike, I've had the Volvo brake conversion on my radar for some time, but I really like your 5 bolt wheel conversion with Mustang PBR brakes much better. The use of a trailer hub is nice out of the box thinking...I've read all of your posts that I could find, and still have some questions. I hope you can help me with some additional answers.
Would you know the manufacturer and model number of the hub that you used? I assume that the inner bearing matches the TR7 (L44649/L44610 ).
What did you need to do to match the hubs rear bearing grease seal to the TR7 spindle?
I see that you appear to have sleeved the spindle for the larger outer bearing and there appears to be a wheel spacer as well, which I assume was necessary to match your ET 40 wheels.
What machining did you perform on the hub itself?
Does the brake disc mount directly to the hub or did you need to space the disc out from the hub to properly locate the caliper?
Was there a reason you used a bolt on wheel spacer, rather than just holding everything together with longer wheel studs?
Any additional pictures of the individual custom components attached to the hub would be really helpful to see how you did it.
regards
Mark
At 340 pounds complete, I would use the late Rover 4 bolt main stroked with a 300 Buick crank as D & D has done. It is all aluminum 294 cubes and just the same as the factory TR8 in size. Basically except for the late 4.0 or 4.6 L block the parts are American. ... the Ford is good too but the Rover / Buick / Olds block is already engineered and done in Merry Olde England all the time Basically you create a Triumph TR8. The 75 pound T5 is the trans to use in both cases but only the V8 version. Cheers, C. Bruce Strock 267 999 1179 .... There are headers [long tube] for the 215 > 4.6L blocks.
Sorry guys, I've been away for a few weeks.
Dan - I changed boosters, and fitting the master cylinder will depend on what you plan to do for a booster.
For what I did, I had to oblong the two master cylinder mounting holes, and I made a custom length pushrod to go between the master cylinder and the booster. The Ford tube fittings are also different, so you will need to make new lines or find adapters.
Mark,
The hub I used was Reliable BT150A Short. The bearings are spaced closer together on that hub than most other trailer hubs.
Mine came with the correct inner bearing and seal to fit the TR7 spindle. There are couple different ID seals available.
The outer bearing requires a collar to adapt the OD of the spindle to the ID of the bearing race.
You may be able to get by just mounting that hub on your spindle, but I chose to modify my hubs by boring the bearing location further into the hub. Without modifying the hub, about half of the outer bearing is hanging out over the threads on the end of the TR7 spindle. I moved my bearings in by 0.300 inches.
What is the advantage of changing to the Ranger master, other than cost of course?
Dan,
I wanted the 1" diameter master cylinder. That was why I did it. Now that it is set up, it will be easier to find replacements down the road. Its also lighter, being aluminum.
Thanks for the info Mike, I realized after I posted, that Christmas break was probably not a great time to ask questions. :-)
Just to confirm, did you move both bearings or just the outer one?
It looks like you sandwiched the brake rotor between the hub's wheel mount surface and a custom bolt on wheel spacer/adapter. Did you source the spacer pre-made from somewhere or machine it up to your own specifications?
To mount the calipers did you use straight alloy plate for the adapter or did you need to mill an offset or recess into the plate for either the caliper or strut bolts to align everything correctly?
regards
Mark
Mark,
I only moved the outer bearing.
I needed the wheel spacers to get the tires away from the strut tubes. They are just standard 1.125" wheel spacers.
There is an offset in the caliper mounting. I made flat brackets (1/2" stock) and then made spacers to bolt the calipers onto the brackets (about 0.200"). You could mill the offset into the bracket.
Mike
Much difference was there in the offset between the original front hubs and the trailer hubs?
4 years later, I'm still loving the 5.0 TR7. After a few cruise in's with people thoroughly impressed with the repower (but not the body of the car), I decided the body was no longer good enough. For myself, I wanted the bottom to be perfect when I'm under it on my lift, so I embarked on this little project:
IMG_3313.jpg
Spent a lot of time getting things straight. I left some factory wrinkles and spot welds. I'm so happy with the pristine looking front air dam. I remade the triangular braces that hold the air dam because they were never going to be back to perfect.
IMG_3315Large.JPG
How long will it stay like this?
IMG_3316Large.JPG