Well, I'm finally starting to put this thing together. It's been a slow process but hopefully will be worth it in the end. I appreciate all the information that has been posted on this website. A lot of what I have done has been gleened from the builds that are shown here. Shooting to be finished (whatever that is) by early spring. Have started wiring and would like to get that completed in the next week or so. We'll see.
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Nice color! It's coming together and getting closer to drive!
That's a very clean engine bay.
It's too easy to end up looking like a How Much Can We Cram In Here competition.
Now, all you need is to hide the wiring like the Custom guys do :}
Ivor
Thanks Calvin. The color is Dodge Viper Blue. It came out looking pretty good. It's not perfect but it will be fine for a driver. Ivor, the engine bay now looks like a bowl of spaghetti fell in it. Plan on putting the relay panel on the shelf at the firewall. Hopefully it won't look too bad when finished.
Ed, you could plan to visit us at the Blount County Brit Car Show in May 2014, Early May. Townsend is a great place to visit and try out a Sports Car. SAFETY FASTER !
QuotePlan on putting the relay panel on the shelf at the firewall
Here's a good example:
(http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/TedLathrop/TedLathrop-E.jpg)
Kelly, that definitely sounds like something to shoot for. Have been camping in Townsend and it is a beautiful area. Dan, that is good example of a clean wiring layout. I've got my relay panel where the MSD ignition box is located in the picture. I will probably try to put it in an enclosure. Might help to hide some of the mess.
Great Color and every time you fire it up, take it for a spin, you will know it was all worth it!
Ed:
Very nice color. Can you share with me the specs on the radiator?
Thanks
Art
Art,
The radiator is from KMJ Performance. http://www.kmjent.com/cart/chevy-gm-style-crossflow-aluminum-radiator-19x24.html
Because of the width, there was quite a bit of cutting and welding to get it to fit. Made some pockets for the bottom of the radiator to slip into just on either side of the body mounting bolts at the front of the frame. Had to modify the radiator shield below the radiator and also the bumper brace to accept the new width.
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Put some finish on the steering wheel today. Now if I just had the dash finished to install it in. Plan to cut a dash from walnut to match the steering wheel. Wiring is coming along, a little slower than expected like everything else.
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Some pictures of the steering wheel fabrication. A guy on mgexp.com made a wheel like this and did a pretty good job documenting what he did.
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Six sections glued up with splines between the butt joints. The sections are 1/2" thick walnut
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Six sections of 1/8" oak glued to one side
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Cutting the groove for the spoke ring
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Spoke ring setting in one half
Some more photos of the steering wheel.
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Cut OD and ID of each half
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Used a roundover bit in a router table on the OD and ID
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Used a cove bit to cut the fingergrooves
Looks pretty darned good!
(Of course an MG wheel would have to be made with 8 sections...)
Jim
Thanks Jim. The work you are doing on the TR7 with the Lexus V8 is amazing. You guys are making great progress considering the few weekends that you have worked on it. Keep going. Looking forward for more posts from Dan.
Ed
Ed - I've done a lot of woodwork but that pic showing the jig and cutter used to route the groove has me scratching my head. Do you have any pics from a bit further away - showing more of the cutter head and whether it or the jig table is what rotates? I have a jig I made to route circles, but it blocks my view of what I'm routing. I'm interested in seeing your set-up so I can borrow the idea!
Rob, I cut the steering wheel on a 3 axis CNC machine. I built the machine a couple of years ago to be able to accurately cut the dash. I've cut a lot of stuff with it but have yet to cut the dash. That's next since the dash area is what wiring I have left to do.
There are quite a few plans on the web to build a CNC router. These came from Solsylva.com. Mine is the 24" x 48" version. There are a couple of more pictures of it in the gallery towards the end. Really wasn't very difficult to make as the plans were very detailed. Purchased the stepper motors and controller online also. Runs off of the parrallel printer port on just about any PC.
I would highly recommend building one, it will add another dimension to your woodworking skills.
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Have made some progress on the wiring. Have the engine compartment pretty well completed. Taking longer than anticipated but I've come to realize that is the norm for me.
It started out looking like this:
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And ended up like this. Still thinking about putting some type of cover over the relay panel. Either that or spend some more time trying to tidy it up.
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Fabricated a Bob Danielson style hood release. Think I'm just going to use this and not use the cable. Used the hole in the firewall where the cable came through for some wiring. Never did like the cable. Broke the plastic T handle trying to get the hood open many years ago. Haven't driven this car since 1998.
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Made a walnut T handle to attach to the rod.
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That steering wheel fabrication is fantastic! I may have to look into this CNC router idea. hmmm, need more shop space.
Thanks Mike. It was a fun project. More shop space.... Can't go wrong with that idea!
Took the tail light assemblies off the shelf to re-install and hadn't realized how bad the lenses looked. They were very dull and had lots of small scratches. I thought I'd just buy some new ones. Also didn't realize Roadster Factory sells one side for $450. Even at $250 on ebay was a lot more than I wanted to spend. So after a little research, got out the 1000 and 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and went to work. After a pretty short time sanding and some buffing I was happy to see that they looked good enough to install. Well worth the small time invested vs replacing. Don't throw those old lenses out, they can be brought back to life. Wish I had thought to take a "before" picture. I guess I really didn't think they were going turn out as good as they did.
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Am starting to wire the dash components. Had decided to use an aftermarket windshield wiper switch. It has two speed capability and push to wash. Thought it wouldn't be much trouble to wire it up. Got the wiper motor to run on low and high speed but was unable to get the motor to drive the wipers to the "park" position at the bottom of the windshield. After some head scratching and looking at some wiring diagrams, I realized that the aftermarket switch did not have a set of contacts that would allow the motor to continue to drive in the "off" position to get the wipers to "park". Was able to add a relay to the circuit with a normally closed set of contacts that would provide the power to the motor when the wiper switch was "off".
WiperWiring.jpg
When the switch is in the off position "B" is connected to "5". This provides power to the motor and the relay allows R/LG to be connected to N/LG so the motor drives until the limit switch stops the motor at the park position.
Hopefully this will help someone who wants to get away from the original rocker switch. Mine broke a long time ago and I installed an Allen-Bradley switch and kept adding contact blocks until it worked right. Worked ok but didn't look too good.
Always feels good when you finally connect the dots doesn't it?
I'm probably half crazy, but I actually enjoyed wiring my car.
Started cutting the dash. Cut the tach, speedometer and gauge holes first. Plan on using leds for turn signal indicators, high beam, alt warning light, and emergency flasher. That's the 3/8" diameter holes. There will be 4 toggle switches below the gauges. The holes for the aftermarket wiper and headlight switches are also 3/8" diameter.
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Cut the rest of the gauge openings and the passenger side vent opening. Used an 1/8" dia end mill to cut these.
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Switched to a 1/4" end mill and cut the recesses for the tach, speedometer, and gauges.
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Used the 1/4" end mill to also cut the outside perimeter.
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All that's left is the glove box door. Was planning on using some 1/32" diameter bits so the door gap would be as small as possible... but the bits have a shank length of only 3/4" and the dash is 1/2" thick. I made a bunch of test cuts and somehow thought the dash was only 3/8" thick. The bit just barely made it through the 3/8" test pieces. I need at least 3/8" of bit length to allow the collet adapter and router collet to grip the bit. So... I ordered a 1/16" diameter bit that has a shank length of 1 1/2". Hopefully it will be in soon and I can finish the dash.
Ed
Totally awesome Ed!!
Ed, if you dial it in closely couldn't you cut it from the front and then re-cut from the back? Just have to have a couple of accurate reference holes, which you already have.
Jim
Thanks Rob. You need to build one of these. You'll love it.
Yes Jim, I thought about doing that. Right now, I've got the x-axis and the y-axis zeroed in the center of the drivers side vent opening. I could cut the face as it sits now, flip the part with the same zero position and mirror the part in the drawing to re-generate the g-code to cut the backside. Like you said, I might have to change the zero position to one of the smaller holes so I can get the part zeroed accurately when flipped. I still might do this if this new bit I've got coming leaves too big a gap. I'll make a few test cuts with the new bit and decide. The gap on the original dash was about a 1/16", was just kind of hoping to improve on that. We'll see. Thanks for the great suggestion of using the smaller holes. I would have struggled getting the larger vent opening zeroed in.
Ed
Ed,
Great job on the dash - I envy your tools. Here's a picture of the dash I made for a TR6 out of a 1/2" solid piece of oak. I cut the gauge openings using an adjustable circle cutter on a drill press. The glove box was cut using a scroll saw. To get the blade started, I drilled a small hole where the hinges would go so they wouldn't show in the finished job. Cutting that opening was nerve racking, as I knew there was no room for error. The edge of the dash was beveled with a table router.
Did you make dimensioned drawings of the dash (I'm sure you must have to cut it on CNC machinery)? Would you be willing to make the drawings available to others? For a fee, of course.
(http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/DanMasters/Image10.jpg)
Here's a picture of the dash installed.
(http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/VanWilder/VanWilder-EA.jpg)
Dan,
That dash looks great. You did a great job cutting the glove box opening. I'm pretty sure mine would have looked terrible if I used a scroll saw.
I do have an AutoCad drawing of the dash that I used to generate the g code for the CNC. It's drawn full scale so it currently doesn't have dimensions on it but I could easily add those. I would be willing to make the drawing available. It's also pretty easy to make changes to the gauge layout, switches, lamp openings, etc. Most of the changes that I made only required a small amount of cutting of the metal panel behind the dash.
Your TR6 was what got me started down this road many years ago. Have learned a lot from reading about your 302 conversion.
This picture sold me on the idea of doing mine. Thanks for the inspiration!
DanMastersTR6.jpg
RE: Thanks Rob. You need to build one of these. You'll love it.
I've started reading up at the links you sent. Will have to collect parts over time as looks to be about $1k or more in parts. Also watching craigslist for a used one that would work or might be a cheaper source of parts.
I like Jim's idea of flipping the dash to use the 3/32 bit. The smaller gap will look so good.
Well, I couldn't wait for the new bit so I decided to use Jim's suggestion and cut the glove box opening halfway through and then flip the part and cut the remainder of the way through on the back side.
This is the cut on the back side
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The door was only off by just little. The back of the door and dash get beveled so this would get routed off.
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I was pretty exicted that this was going to work out.
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So I routed the perimeter edge and cut the glove box door for the hinges. Decided I should see how it fit in car. Well.... it didn't fit. The distance between the vent openings was off and the small hole I made to the left of the steering column notch for the alternator warning light was right in the way of the column mounting. The glove box was also off. So, obviously changes needed to be made. With all the test cuts that I made, I never made a complete dash. I cut lots of holes to check for gauge, switch, led, vents, etc. Made a bunch of drawing changes, and cut a test dash. Still had a few issues and made those changes. Dash number two is on the table now with all the holes cut. Need to cut the glove box again and the perimeter. The new 1/16" bit came in today but I will plan to use the 1/32" bit. The gap looks much better. Just hope when this one gets flipped to cut the back side that it lines up as good as the first one did. Also hoping it fits in car....
That sure beats the jigsaw we used to cut Dan B's cherry dashboard for his TR4-A about 20 years back.
Jim
Jim, I bought the car in 1980. We cut the dash that summer, so it was a little more than 20 years ago! That cherry dashboard has great sentimental value.
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Jim and I cut that out with our grandfather, Clyde Miller, who Jim swore to the folks at Speedway Motors was Harry Miller's cousin/nephew/son/brother, depending on who he was telling. ;)
You think they'd have liked to have heard about Philo Farnsworth being related to Uncle Dorsey? That makes a pretty good story too...
Jim
Dash No. 2 is getting some finish put on it. This one actually fits. Moved the hole to the left of the steering column, lined up the glove box and got the mounting holes located properly. Turns out the first dash was not that far off. The glove box was about 1/4" too far to the right. Filled in the mounting holes that were off. Might not look too bad. I liked the grain pattern on the first dash.
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Received the interior panels from Bob Danielson today. He does outstanding work.
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Would highly recommend Bob. He's also got a great website where he has documented lots of modifications to his TR6.
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/
Ed
Started working on the console. The angled piece and the shifter plate is walnut. The sides will get wrapped with either black vinyl or with the seat/panel vinyl. Can't really decide. The kidney panels that Bob Danielson provided in his kit are black so it seems to make sense to make the console sides black. Also planning to put black carpet. I think I'm talking myself out of the black. Need to decide soon. My son told me that I need to cut the opening for the radio into a rectangle if I want to put a new head unit in.
console.JPG
As you can see, I still have all the dash wiring to do. Need to put a couple (maybe more) coats of finish along with some sanding to get it flat.
Put some vinyl on the sides of the console and some finish on the wood. Realized I'm not much of an upholsterer so I'm glad I decided not to try to do the interior myself.
console.JPG
Also put a few more coats of finish on the dash and stuck the gauges in it. Had to do some fitting to put the dash pad on. Didn't line up very well with the vent openings. Got that done and put the dash in to see how it was going to look. Using Autometer gauges. At night, the gauges go black and the numerals turn orange. Will have to do some more wiring to see how that looks.
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Stuck the steering wheel on also. Of course I had to take it all off to work on the wiring.
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It looks like this now.
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Ed
Looking great! That wiring looks like a handful. I actually enjoy wiring projects. I like the wire with spiral coloring on it. Is that part of a kit, or just spools of wire?
Thanks Mike. I contacted Advance Auto Wire and told them I had fabricated my own version of their "power block" (relay panel) and asked if they would just sell me the wire that would come in their kit. He sent more than enough wire, bullet terminals, etc. to do the car. Very easy to deal with. Highly recommend them.
Ed
Got enough wiring done to see what the gauges are going to look like.
This is what they look like during the day.
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This is what they will look like at night.
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Have finished most of the wiring. Still need to do some interior lights but for the most part it's done. This cold weather, holidays, etc. have kind of slowed progress. It's got to start warming up soon.
Ed
I think there's a song "momma said there'd be days like this". Took the distributor out to prime the engine before trying to start it up. Looked down in the hole and some idiot (me!) forgot to put the oil pump shaft in before putting the oil pump in. So... drained the oil, took the pan bolts off, and tried to pull the pan off. Finally got the gasket seal broke loose. Guess I thought it was never going to have to come off. Didn't have enough room to get the front of the pan off. Don't have enough room between the oil pump and the front crossmember. Took the motor mounts off and tried to raise the engine. Trans hit the top of the firewall. What a pain. So, I just about have everything disconnected to pull the engine tomorrow. Not exactly what I had planned. The plan now is to get the engine running, break it in, tune it, and anything else it might need before it goes back in. So much for a schedule. Oh, and also got a letter for jury duty today. It could probably be worse.... maybe. At least I haven't ruined the engine yet.
Ed
Keep pressing on and don't let these things discourage you. I have found as I work on myTR6 that any job worth doing is done at least three times!!
Cheers
Byron
Byron is right 3,4or 5 times until it is right. Well worth doing!
A good story that I went through.
My ls1 engine had a hard time priming the oil to the oil pressure gauge for the first time. I was not going to start the engine until there was pressure. I turned the engine over with the starter, had the coils disconnected,fuel pump shut off, pulled the spark plugs trying to get it to prime . I ran down one battery and it still didn't prime. So I took off the oil pressure sending unit which opened up a 1/4" hole on the top of the block in the back. I took a very small funnel and poured oil in the hole until no more would go in. I was thinking, I would need to pull the timing cover back off, try to replace the O ring that could pinch real easy on a Ls1, between the oil pump, and the pick up tube. So pouring oil in the top of the block was a last ditch effort not to pull the timing cover off.....Re-installed the oil pressure sending unit back into the block and turn the engine over one last time. " Victorious" It primed, and the oil pressure was showing on the gauge with 50psi. So needless to say "you need to check and check, and check and re-check until you feel everything is right before you proceed to start your engine". I have heard and read where people have jumped the gun some and ruin their engines, not a fun situation.
So pulling the engine is the correct way to handle it Ed. Check and check everything else before you put it back in. In the end you will have one very cool car that you can appreciate. It will put that big grin back on your face every time you drive it.
As far as Jury duty, we are able to respond online here in California. I filled a form out that states I'm the only bread winner in the house, and I would lose to much money for the days they would need me for their jury duty. Just a thought! Don't know about your state that you live in.
Replaced the oil pump gears on my Rover 215. Vaseline.. priming tool, drill.... wouldn't prime.
Pulled them again, this lying on the drive in winter, hard to do when you can't feel your fingers, why didn't I leave it until summer... Engine building grease...priming tool, drill, wouldn't prime.
Decided to replace the pressure relief valve with a 'tadpole'.
Speaking to the chap who sold them... errrm it was was a while ago... errrm, anyway I mentioned the problem.
'Where did you get the cover gasket?' he asked.
Turned out the gasket that came with the gears was a couple of thou too thick. A known problem that these bad gaskets were in circulation grrr.
He sent me the correct gasket, it primed.
If I had just fired the motor, that would have been the end of it.
Now, I don't know if you can get a priming tool for your engine, but the trouble with priming it on the starter, by the time it gets going all the cam lube has been wiped.
Something else to worry about. :}
Won't drift on to camshaft running-in procedure, I'm sure that's been amply covered in this forum.
Ivor
That oil pump end clearance needs to be set tight. TA sells the shim kit (gaskets). If it just drags a little when assembled cold that is just about right.
Jim
Byron and Calvin, thanks for encourgement and stories like Ivor's kind of make me cringe. It's good to have folks that have been through this to give advice.
Jim, is that TA Performance? Didn't realize the oil pump end clearance was something that could be adjusted.
After a slow start I was able to get the engine and trans out today. Pulled the trans while I was at it. Was going to replace the rear seal before it went in after paint but I forgot. Looking at this little excersize as an opportunity to check, check, and recheck (how many times Calvin?) everything before it goes back in.
Ed
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Oh right, that's a Ford engine. Can't help you there.
Jim
Probably a little late in the game to be adding a rear torsion bar, but I wanted to have the body on the frame and the mufflers installed so I could see what kind of clearance I had. Well, I put it off long enough and decided I needed to make some decisions to add a rear bar. I had purchased and installed a Richard Goods 7/8" front bar so I knew I needed to install a rear bar.
Had originally wanted to install bushings in the frame rails below the trunk area. Unfortunately, the mufflers would interfere with this location. I have seen some bars that were mounted on the spring tower/front diff crossmember, but the tubing I welded between the two crossmembers would keep me from using this area.
I had some space above the frame rail but not enough to get a bar between the top of the frame rail and the bottom of the trunk. I decided I needed to cut the frame so that I could lower the bar halfway into the frame. This would give me clearance above the mufflers and below the bottom of the trunk.
Hopefully this might help someone else who is trying to install a rear bar and has similar issues. I had talked with Richard Good and found out that his rear bar is 7/8" and has an arm length of 11" to the center hole. I wanted a shorter arm length (8.5") so I ended up using a 3/4" diameter bar. Should be real close in spring rate to Richard's. Ordered the bar, along with a splined and smooth bore bushing. The bar is cut to the length required and the bushings are welded to the arms. The smooth bore bushing is welded to the bar. The shorter arm allows the bar to be easily removed through the wheel well. Purchased some 3/4" greasable bushings from Energy Suspension.
Made some brackets for the bushings to sit on. Also made the arms, and the bracket that attaches to the trailing arm. Wanted to try and use the old lever shock location at the rear of the trailing arm to attach the bracket.
Cut a piece of pipe to weld back into the notch that was cut in the frame rail. Also welded in some sleeves for the bolts that would attach the support bracket.
Bar1.JPG
Bracket attached to trailing arm with male and female rod ends to connect to the bar arm.
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Bushing mounted to support bracket.
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Support bracket bolted to frame.
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After a few false starts (distributor in 180* out, intake manifold leak), the engine is running. Still need to do some timing and carb adjusting but at least it's running.
Ed
Ed your swaybar looks real good. If I ever decide to go with one I may be talking to you.
Congratulations on getting the engine running! Now on to the next thing......
Cheers
Byron
Ed,
Great idea that you came up with. Looks like it will work fine.This will give your mufflers the room they need. Very cool!
Thanks Byron and Calvin. The "next" thing is to get the interior put in. I'll feel like it's just about finished when that happens. I've got Bob Danielson's interior panel kit and MrMikes seat covers along with all the trim and fittings. I originally had planned to do the interior installation myself, but I'm leaning towards letting someone else do it. It's supposed to rain the next couple of days so maybe Saturday I'll load it on the trailer and take it to a couple of places to get some estimates. If the estimates are ridiculous, I'll probably just end up doing it myself. I know it will take me a lot longer to do it myself and I would hate to miss some great spring weather to do some driving. Hopefully the estimates will be reasonable. I am still planning on trying to make the meet in Townsend May 9-11. We'll see.
First time it's been out of the shop under it's own power.
ShopTR6.JPG
Ed
Wow, sure is a nice build, glad it's under it's own power. Have fun!!
Thanks for the kind words Ed. Hopefully will be having "fun" soon. Had an exhaust manifold leak and pulled the header off. Fortunately it was the passenger side so I didn't have to remove the steering shafts (again). It hasn't stopped raining here so still haven't gotten any prices for the interior. Installed a rollbar today that I added a 3rd brake light to. The bar is more for looks as it's not tied to the frame but it still should add a little rigidity.
Ed
Just a couple of pictures of the rollbar installation.
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Hmmm.
Don't know how this will tie into the overall 'look' of the car, but I decided the roll bar was an ugification, and took it out of mine.
Ivor
Ed, I too like the color. I notice several things you are doing to the car that speak highly of your skills. Thanks for posting the pictures. A short side story of my oil pump priming. I have just finished building a GM V6, wanted, like you to prime the oil pump. So with a portable drill, extension, socket, I start the drill, noticed oil coming from the pressure gauge adapter, tightend that. I am a little lacking in the hearing department, I start the drill again and am watching the push rods for oil on the right side, then the drill speeds up and I noticed why. It looks as though an Exxon super tanker has run aground in the shop, I have empted 5 qts in about 30 seconds. I had not seen the hose come loose on the remote filter adapter. Maybe we will see each other in Townsend this year.
I hope your progress is coming on.
Regards
charles
Thanks for the kind words Charles. I know that I have incorporated a lot of what I have done by looking at photos that others have posted, so I'm hoping that someone might benefit from what I've posted.
I think everyone has some type of horror story when it comes to engine building/starting. I know I've had my share.
I am still planning to make it to Townsend. May not have an interior in it but at least it's running. Hope to see you there. Was not far from McDonald over the winter. Bought a boat from Madisonville Marine right off of 75. Hopefully, one of these days it's going to warm up so I can put it in the water.
Ed
I noticed the absence of a battery in several posts. Are they being tucked somewhere in the trunk? Sure makes the engine compartment cleaner!
Oh, and I love the color, too.
Ron, yes, the battery is in the trunk. Many installations require cutting of the battery shelf to move the motor back. The 302 is a little more forgiving when a short water pump is used. I probably could have fit a battery on what shelf that was left but liked the idea of moving the weight to the rear. I installed a second solenoid in the trunk so the 1/0 cable going to the front is only hot during start-up. Have another 8 ga wire that handles the battery charging.
Ed
And.... the saga continues. Put a total of 13.5 miles on before things started to sound like something was wrong. Had been losing coolant and could see it coming out the exhaust. The engine was running poorly and decided I needed to do some looking. Took the valve cover off on the passenger side and was kind of horrified to see rocker arms where they shouldn't be and push rod ends staring me in the face. Took the carb, intake and heads off. The only real casualty was number two cylinder intake valve pushrod. Was relieved that was the only damage.
I have now learned a few things about small block fords. Ford used 3 different methods to attach rocker arms. Pedastel mount (uses a bolt), stud with a step (uses a 1/2" nut), and straight shaft stud (uses a 5/8" nut). I read how to remove the valve lash by rotating the pushrod and then giving the nut another 1/2 turn (or 3/4, or full turn depending on what you read) to preload the lifter. Well, that's what I did. Only problem is that the straight stud is the only type of rocker arm attachment that has adjustment. The stepped stud just gets torqued to 20 ft lbs and that's it.
Also learned something about torquing heads on a 302. Most manuals tell you to torque in 3 steps of 30, 50, and 70 ft lbs. On further reading I have learned that it is advisable to torque the upper head bolts under the valve cover to 80 ft lbs. Evidently the 302 is susceptable to leaks when the intake is torqued down. The leaks that I had were on the intake side of the head on no. 1 and no. 2 cylinder.
Was planning to put it back together without pulling the engine but had difficulty getting the rear head bolts out. Was concerned that I would not be able to get the torque wrench on them. Have just about got it ready to come out. Hopefully, tomorrow.
I think this is going to keep me from getting to Townsend. Was really wanting to make that trip. Is there something planned for the fall?
Ed
pushrods.JPG
QuoteI think this is going to keep me from getting to Townsend. Was really wanting to make that trip. Is there something planned for the fall?
Yes, the first weekend in October we'll have our annual get-together at the Talley-Ho inn in Townsend. Strictly informal - no plans, no schedule, no fees, just a bunch of British hot-rod enthusiasts hanging out together and burning up the local twisties.
http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?10,40235
These dashes all look great would have liked to have that CNC capability when I did my Spitfire dash.
I used a hand held drill with hole saws and a coping saw to cut the glove box, (That's right glove box)
I only have a picture of the finished dash. I used a piece of cherry from a tree my uncle had cut down in his yard, cut all the holes sanded the heck out of it and finished it with 20 coats of satin tung oil. Also hand turned the shift knob using my drill and vise as a makeshift lathe.
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