I am about to put my TR6 on the auto rotisserie. I already built the two stands from two HF engine stands. All I need to do is weld together the arms and adjustable brackets that actually hold the body. I read the instructions on this web site for making the rotisserie. Does anyone know what steel tubing (gauge and size) sleeves with the next larger size tubing?
The website from British V8 specified 11 gauge. I went to the metal shop and the staff there stated that 11gauge 1-3/4" x 1-3/4" will not sleeve or slide into 2"x2" 11gauge. Can anyone who has build a rotisserie recommend what to buy for the actual arms and adjustable brackets?
Art - when i built mine, I didn't make it adjustable -- so didn't have to deal with that. But, it's not critical as long as you use something stout enough to hold the weight. I'd just show the metal shop guys a sketch or picture & let them know about what the TR6 is going to weigh & let them guide you.
OK thanks Rob:
Best is to find someone who has lots of square tubing on hand and test fit to find what you want. It comes in a lot of different wall thicknesses and corner radii so it's almost impossible to know if it will telescope unless the seller specifically says that it will. But, barring that I'd order it with about .050"+ clearance between OD and ID in a couple different sizes, hope for the best, and expect to clean up the inside weld seam if needed. Worst that can happen is you buy some surplus material that you'll have to use on something else.
Jim
Ok, Heres another question. I reviewed the frame yesterday and found that the frame is bent. I called a couple of frame shops and they said they can straighten but they need the Chassis or frame specs.
Initially, I thought they wanted the wheelbase and ground clearance but they need all the specs for a 1972 TR6.
Anybody out there have this info?
Art, you should reach out to Dale Knapke (tr6turbo on this board) via PM. He recently had to do some significant repair to his TR6 so probably has or knows where you could get the measurements needed.
How badly is the frame damaged?
I will ...Thanks Rob
Rob:
I dont think the frame is too badly damaged. The drivers side frame rail is slightly bent up. I removed the body and discovered a dent or kink right where the outside rail meets the inside rail and forms a V. I took measurements diagonally from front left to back right and visversa. I was 1/2" off. Also, I laid the frame on a level surface and the left front portion of the frame is higher. The portion does touch the level suface.
We spliced a TR4A frame once. I think we just made sure it was good and flat and cross checked diagonally to make sure it was parallel. I don't think they were really all that particular with them when they made them. In this particular case we replaced the entire front third if memory serves. The body comes off the frame pretty easily. Patches on a frame should not go straight up and down in order to avoid stress risers. It's also pretty common to do repairs and reinforcements on the rear suspension arm mounts, the differential mounts, and the front control arm mounts, all of which suffer from stress cracks and rusting. And while you are in there it is pretty easy to do a tube shock conversion on the rear, as the Armstrong mounts are also subject to failure.
Jim
Art,
Make sure you cut off and replace all the front suspension mounting points (ears) on the frame with heavier gauge material and proper welding technique. The originals are soft and tear easily. Trust me, I've had experience.
Tim
Tim/Jim:
I see what you mean. I removed the rear diff and found the the brakets that hold the front portion of the rear diff broke. I will have to repair and box that in. As for the front susp, you all suggested I remove the front control arm mounts and replace with stronger gauge steel. What did you all use 1/16, 1/8 or 3/16? are you refering to the removable mounts that bolt on to the frame? I used Calvin's photo to demenstrate
CalvinGrannis-PKK.jpg
Art,
The metal is thin where the bolts go through. It tends to pull out and crack. I think we just welded it up and backed it with a thicker piece so it would not deform again.
Jim
Jim or Tim:
Well I have been taking a close look at the TR6 frame. I have contacted several frame and body shops without much sucess. Their priority is insurance work. I am thinking just cutting off that bent portion and patch a new rail peice. Any recommendation for making sure the frame stays true and straight? I did get the Bentley shop manual and I used the info for plotting reference points to maintain the squareness.
Take a look and let me know what you think.
art
Remove the body and work on a flat concrete floor. Put the frame on jack stands. lay straight-edges across the frame, the longer the better. Use plumb-bobs to transfer your points to the floor and mark them there. Take measurements between the marked points and from the straight-edges to the floor. Get everything as close as you can, hopefully within 1/16" and tack weld it. Go back and finish up. Re-check measurements several times in between. That should do it.
Jim
Art,
I can't remember where I read this article (might have been here), a fellow made a very detailed photo article about strengthening the TR6 frame. Showed dimensions and how to box the rear for more rigidity. Google it, it's got to be somewhere. On the front, I cut my mounting tabs off because two had torn welds at the frame and two were badly disfigured. I don't remember what gauge I used, not much thicker than 1/16". I made little triangular ears to brace them longitudinally also. That was thirty years ago, I didn't take pics because digital cameras weren't available for consumers and no interwebs to share on.
Tim
Art check out this thread in the TR6 section I was that that started this thread.
http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?3,20492
Cheers
Byron
thanks Byron:
I do remember seeing awhile back.