MS3-Pro will support pretty much any ignition coil I want to use, but what are the trade-offs?
Some specific questions:
If I can neatly package eight individual Chevy LS2/Truck coils, is there a reason not to use them?
Is it possible to have too-hot a coil, on a programmable, crank-fired electronic ignition system?
Are some coils audibly louder?
Do some coils produce more electronic noise which might disturb other electronics?
Apparently external capacitors are suggested for some coils, and some require an extra lead or two.
Is it harder or easier to keep some coils cool... or does that really matter much?
Note: I started researching here... http://www.megamanual.com/seq/coils.htm
Curtis, I think it comes down to the choice of logic-level coils with a built in driver, or the use of an external driver circuit to power the coils. I do believe that MS3 has logic level outputs. (Please correct me if I am in error.)
What this means is that if you don't want to buy or build a separate 8 channel amp to drive the coils (I don't) then you cannot use direct fire coils such as Ford commonly used on their COP applications, which is a shame because they were a nice looking and compact coil. Small, cylindrical and with the lead coming right off the end.
I believe the coils GM used on the LS series motors are logic level coils and have a built in driver. But pretty is one thing they are not. I'm waiting for an attractive logic level coil to show up before I proceed with the MS3 (well among other things).
Jim
For a selection of what coil designs are available, check this out. I came across it today while trying to determine if my ICM had a tach output.
http://www.regitar.com/FlyerPDF/IGNITION%20SYSTEM%202013_2014%20re1.pdf
Curtis, The LS coils don't look bad if you make a bracket to mount them on the head. Or fenderwell.
IMG_0425_zps77b3294a.jpg
If I ever go that route, they won't be on the valve covers. A lot of rodders hide them. Put them behind the dash, the cowl, down on the subframe, anywhere out of sight.
Yes but then you have all those plug wires. That was the beauty of using the Ford coils, they could plug right onto the spark plugs and you could mount them above on a slim rail attached to the valve cover bolts.
Jim
I thought we were pretty much used to having plugs wires coming out of the engine. Kinda like headers, radiators, carburetors.....all that good stuff. ;)
Good insights - Keep 'em coming!
I expect to change from block-hugger to RV8-style headers after the ignition upgrade... That may add extra complexity to the problem. I don't want to design two different coil & cable installations.
Larry's link is enlightening. The OEMs have developed a mind-numbing variety of coils, very few of which look promising.
I like the photo Jim N. posted above... it certainly demonstrates that the coils will group tighter than GM puts them.
Perhaps I could put all the coils on my firewall, in two decks, stacked directly behind the respective valve covers. Art's suggestion (in another thread) that I should consider Buick 340 valve covers is timely. I have a pair of those laying around. One thing that differentiates them is they have welded-on clips for routing spark plug wires in four neat rows right down their length.
I may be "pretty much used to" the ugly spider of cables coming off my distributor, but that doesn't mean I've grown to like it. Bill Jacobson's solution of bringing cables up from underneath is the cleanest I've seen, but I don't have a lift and so I try to keep things serviceable from topside wherever possible.
(Gorgeous!)
(http://www.britishv8.org/articles/Images-V15-2/Supercharger-A.jpg)
Curtis, Here is a good picture showing the bracket design. All thread,locknuts and tubing for spacers. I think there is enough room on either side of your fresh air intake on the firewall or directly above the RV8 style headers.
IMG_9343.jpg
Coil relocation brackets
http://www.ironworksspeedandkustom.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/Category_ID=145/home_id=-1/mode=cat/cat145.htm
LSCoils.jpg
Or hide them under the subframe.
On top of the subframe. There is plenty of room between the rail and the headers. Block huggers would be different of course. I ran the wires underneath on my last engine similar to Bill's but had one coil pack up where it was visible. That would be my second choice but I would prefer that the wiring be more accessible, hence the idea of hanging the coils off the lip of the valve cover.
Several MFGs make coils that look pretty good, Honda, Hyundai, Kia, Audi/VW, Suzuki, Toyota, Landrover even. But there is no information about whether or not they use logic level inputs. For that they have to have at least 3 and probably four terminals plus the high tension lead.
May be time to browse the shelves of the local Advance store again.
Jim
Curtis,
I bought a coil bracket from Nigel Barker in the UK.
Here his e-mail : megasquirt.v8@gmail.com
Hope this helps you searching for coils and brackets
Hey Guys,
What about the stock Lucas/Bosch coils that are are already installed on the newer Rover engines? Or, what's wrong with a magneto ignition? All those race Ferraris, Alfas, Masers and all the motorcycles in the world were/are using them. Such a simple design if your engine has accommodation for a distributor.
Mine does not accommodate a distributor so I'll try to use the stock coil packs like Evan Amaya did. His web site is no longer online but he stuffed the coils back next to the firewall like stock Rover. I'll try to ressurect his site because I want to reference his photos.
Tim
Well... magnetos have been obsolete since ~1964 when Lucas (of all companies!) introduced their crank-fired electronic ignition systems on Coventry Climax and BRM Formula One engines. (<a href="http://www.britishracecar.com/KurtDelBene-BRP.htm">Detailed photos and explanation here!</a>) Back in the day, the best magneto installations featured gears off the crankshaft. So, gear lash was relatively manageable compared to the bouncing timing chain set-up on my humble little Buick engine. Magnetos were for race engines... so no vacuum or mechanical advance features. By timing my ignition with a crank position sensor, I'll eliminate spark scatter! The MS3-Pro computer will make it really easy to tune vacuum and mechanical advance. I can have multiple tunes: one for road and one for track. MS3-Pro can even be programmed to provide slightly different timing/advance characteristics for specific cylinders!
I'm not sure that the Rover coils would be any cheaper than Chevy coils. I don't have any laying around, so I'd still have to buy them. I'm not sure about how they're wired/triggered either (e.g. "logic level" inputs or not.)
Curtis,
Here a picture of the bracket that will hold two 4 cyl coils from a Ford EDIS ignition system.
The distributor might be in the way of the bracket.
DSC03074SM.jpg
Magnetos obsolete?? Depends on the application.
I know for a fact the EDIS coils are not logic level. However there is an argument to be made for the simple non-logic level coils. Fewer wires to each coil may make for a cleaner wiring job, the 8 channel coil amp could be hidden somewhere and I'm pretty sure there are coil amps available as modules. But personally, I like my wiring to be accessible.
Jim
Bill Jacobson, to put it simply, is an engine bay artist; who knows, he may be related to "Chip Foose"........ (LOL)
Here's what I've learned about the Ford, coil on plug, versus the GM coils; in our large fleet, we probably replace 15-20 (if not more) Ford, coil on plugs, for every GM coil. We've always figured that the extreme heat was killing the ford coils, and also, it turns out that we had to replace the boots on a regular basis as corrosion formed between the plug tip and the coil insert. Ford later on got wise and replaced them with silicone rubber boots.
Coil on plug have the cool show factor but if I had to chose, I would go with the GM coils and hide them just like Bill did. Ford hardly ever had any problems when they were using the DIS system on the early Crown Victoria.
My 2 cents
Hmmm... wonder if the MS-3 can be set up to run the Ford EDIS-8 with the two double coil packs and still independently time the cylinders using the wasted spark? Since I already have the EDIS system on the car it may be something to consider.
However as you say Jacques, COP has the coolness factor. I'm thinking one of the imports might be the place to look. Anybody have experience with those? A good reliable logic level coil with a clean appearance and a simple one or two lug mount would be just the thing. A longer boot would get it away from the headers, and the boot would need to be able to handle about a 45 degree bend.
I don't think anybody could fault Bill's engine bay treatment. Mine looks like a spaghetti factory by comparison. I would like to do something about that. Lately I've been looking at Summit's woven split wire looms. Kinda expensive and I'm not sure how it will look or perform. My aircraft lacing may look sort of trick but it doesn't really give that clean appearance and despite being able to see all the wires it still isn't that user friendly when you have to cut the lacing to get to anything. I've actually been thinking about installing a bulkhead plug for a separate engine wiring harness but that's way, way down on the priority list and may never happen.
Jim
Jim, Toyota's V6 also uses the COP, it's a little different mounting but it also experiences occasional coil failures. The EDIS uses its own independent module to take care of the ignition and timing, but I don't know how you could tie it to the MS-3 for fuel injection management??? The EDIS is the perfect ignition system for carburated engines........
Jacques, you would drive the EDIS coils from the MS3 but you would have to have a driver module, the idea being to drive the four windings separately. EDIS is good, it only needs a trigger sent to the MS and a SAW wave returned for advance. But it is not capable of timing the cylinders independently so far as I know so "ideal" is currently a bit dated.
I just hooked my spark plug wires back up and will use the EDIS initially on this new engine, but the coils are big, clunky and not attractive so they will probably go, in the MS3 upgrade. Provided I find some coils I like.
Jim
Has anyone looked at the Honda 3.5 V6 coils? They're 3-wire but have a 90° angle. I don't know if that helps.
My ignition coils arrived this morning! I bought a full set of eight used "LS2 Truck" coils, on their original brackets and with harnesses. These are the coils GM used from about 2002 through 2006 on LS2 V8 powered Trail Blazers, Yukons, Escalades, etc. (They're type D585, coil part number 19005218.) Here's what they look like...
on their original bracket:
LS2TruckCoilsOnBracket.jpg
removed from bracket:
LS2TruckCoil.jpg
It's hard to see in that first photo, but each GM bracket assembly actually consists of five stampings. There are steel sub-brackets which wrap 270+ degrees around each individual coil. I don't think those brackets are particularly attractive or clever, so I'll probably discard them and cobble up something new. Doing so will allow me to pack the coils closer together. I think the absolute minimum footprint for four of these coils in a single row is about 6.5" by 2.25". From tip to tip, the coils measure ~3.75" long and then of course you need to allow room for the mating 4-terminal connector (at least 3/4") and the spark plug wire.
One unusual feature of these coils is that they have finned aluminum heat sinks. Even more interesting, GM installed little clips to ground the heat sinks of each respective coil to the steel brackets.
I'm still not certain where in the engine bay they'll fit best. You know that bracket MG mounted their fuse block on? I'm thinking about making a mirror image version of that for the driver side... I'm not really in love with that mounting location, but (a) it keeps the spark plug wires short and nearly equal length, (b) it puts the coils and their connections in a particularly serviceable location, and (c) the installation would be nicely symmetrical. The main downside is relatively close proximity to the exhaust headers - so I'm pondering covers and heat shields.
Those look really good Curtis! I might have to buy a set myself. I'm thinking about a bracket of some sort that attaches to the two outside valve cover bolts and positions the coils directly above the spark plugs. Then just a short conductor and a long boot should make the connection.
With four contacts I take it these *are* logic level coils? How about an end view showing the connector and heat sink?
Jim
Definitely logic level... so MS3-Pro will drive them directly. (No additional electronics req'd.)
Here's another snapshot:
LS2TruckCoilHeatSinkAndConnector.jpg
Odd about that clip. Could you check for continuity between the fins and the ground lead? I suspect it may just be for static suppression. The driver should be attached to the back side of the heat sink but probably with heat sink grease so the ground there may not be completely reliable.
I am definitely interested in those. Care to share where you bought them and the cost?
Jim
My quick continuity test seems to agree with your hypothesis, although I didn't take time to look up pin-outs or anything.
I bought the coils from an eBay store. They have loads more, here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321143697945 Based on date codes, I've no doubt my two sets of four coils are from two different vehicles. (One is dated 2003 and the other 2004.) The first set I unwrapped looks great. The second... the bracket it a little rusty and a little dinged-up like someone dropped it, but the coils look fine.
Curtis
You may need a couple of these if you are using the coil harness as is. These are supposed to be hard to find in a junkyard.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delphi-Connection-Systems/12047938/?qs=eBuH7aKXikf5rsoeZD%252bhXw==
Hey, that's VERY helpful! Thank you, Scott. Tracking down connector part numbers can eat a lot of time! That's a MetriPack 150-series connector, so I have terminals and seals for it already. I understand there's a GT-series connector which technically supersedes it and is interchangeable - a generation newer - but I don't have any GT-series terminals.
Coincidentally, yesterday I tracked down a part number for the connector that mates to a Ford Taurus/Windstar V6 cam position sensor. (The same sensor Bill Jacobson and Jim Blackwood used.) Maybe I can save someone else some time: the cam position sensor connector part number is 3U2Z-14S411-SMA (a.k.a. WPT-579), although technically it's superseded also. I believe the newer version is 3U2Z-14S411-SLA (a.k.a. WPT-759). I need to do a little more research to make sure I get the correct terminals, locks, etc. --- and bringing things back around, I believe these are the same two-wire connectors that most commonly mate to Ford coil-on-plug ignition coils.
I wonder if there would be any chance that we could start a library section with things like these part numbers? I know there are a number of hard to find items that I could contribute sources for.
Jim
Looks like Ballenger has the Delphi/Packard connectors AND the Ford connectors, AND they have "kits" with terminals and seals too! http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/index.php/cPath/109_219?osCsid=i99uvgvc2lip28k611m768nuh4
Nice find Curtis. I actually looked pretty hard when I was at the junkyard for a couple of these but had no luck. Those who are doing their own wiring for an LS1 swap might find this useful. It's where I got the part # for the coil plug..
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/ltx-lsx/573725-connector-id-pn-interchanges.html
Just to mix things up a little.
I found these today.
IMGP9276.JPG
IMGP9277.JPG
IMGP9278.JPG
I just positioned them on and old Range Rover engine and the fit is near perfect.
A simple bracket off of the valve cover would mount them easily.
The coils are from a Suzuki V6 the 4 cyl ones are similar.
They are a logic level coil and are quite small.
The part # is 33410-77E2 and they are available new locally for $39.19 can.
IMGP9280.JPG
This last shot is on a 2" grid which makes the unit just over 6" long.
The boot is very flexible and will tolerate a 45' bend easily.
Hope that helps somebody.
Cheers
Fred
Fred, I think that's what Jim B is looking for.
Very nice Fred. You do come up with some really good finds. Like the mounting also. Of course they are not exactly pretty, but they aren't butt ugly either. I guess a section from a stainless tube might make a nice cover.
Do you think the boot is flexible enough that you could pull it off the plug without unbolting the coil?
Jim
You probably could pull the boot off with the coil in situ.
The top 2/3 of the boot is rigid due to the noise suppressor, but it removes from the coil very easily.
IMGP9282.JPG
IMGP9284.JPG
IMGP9286.JPG
It actually looks like you could toss the boots and fit some of Toyota's funky 5mm plug wires if you needed more versatility.
But I think your idea for a stainless cover (ooooooh, shiny) is the way to go.
I would bend something up out of sheet and underhang the coils so that the cover is the mounting.
Then polish the #$%@*&&^ out of it to keep the racoons happy!
Those Suzuki/Mitsubishi coils certainly are cute! I sniffed around online for a little while trying to get pin-outs and/or a schematic but I didn't find anything. I'd like to confirm that the Suzuki coils have internal drivers, because I understand some OEMs spec 3-pin connectors on coils whether they have an internal driver or not. (In other words, they leave one terminal unconnected.) Anyone got a Suzuki repair manual handy?
No prob Curtis.
Pin 1 is ground.
Pin 2 is the trigger. ( gate power is most likely 5 volts. but don't have a spec. handy.)
Pin 3 is power.(12 volts)
Cheers
Fred
I was intrigued by the Suzuki coil suggestion, so I bought one. I like it a lot! It's handsome and quite compact. I think it might be a great solution for many engines. Frankly, I don't like it for mine and I've decided to stick with Plan A. Here's why: on a Buick/Rover V8 cylinder head the two middle spark plug holes are angled toward each other. The paths of the #3 and #5 spark plug wires intersect. Now imagine four coils mounted in a row ~4" above the spark plugs. IMHO, there's not really enough room for a comfortable installation of the two middle coils. On a Ford 302 where spark plugs are spaced further apart, I think these coils might fit MUCH, MUCH more neatly.
Want to check out the Suzuki coil option for yourself? I'll list my Suzuki 33410-77E2 ignition coil in the classified section!
I've sketched up a coil mounting bracket for the LS2-Truck coils and bought material and hardware. It's rather elaborate... but I'm getting excited about it.
Curtis,
I just found 2 coil sets and ignition module for my Rover megasquirt conversion at the local Pick-n-Save.. I have a MS unit that I build in 2004. Don't know what version it is. I assume it is the MS ll.
what version do you have and what software have you uploaded to get the sysyem working. I tried DIY-autotune but could not figure out how to
Need help !
Sounds exciting!
I bought an "MS3-Pro" ECM. It came factory-built and pre-programmed, so I got off to a quick and easy start.
We should probably start a separate thread so people with more knowledge of MS2 will be sure to see. I don't know anything about getting an MS2 up and going.
Curtis.
Looking at the single coils you got, they look very well the same as the ones that Henk-Jan-Vonk used in his V8 transformation.
I have 2 Ford coil packs that feed 4 spark plugs each. Plan to mount them on each inner fender so the spark plug wires will be very short. Just need to make 2 new mounting brackets.
Werner
Hi Werner.
The Ford coil packs are a "wasted spark" setup.
That means that for most v8's you are going to have plug wires going to both banks of the engine from each coil pack.
Wasted spark coils need to pair up cylinders that are directly opposite in the firing order.
Not really a problem but possibly not what you wanted.
Positioned well, they look nice and they can be made to do anything that a coil per cyl can do.
Cheers
Fred
Fred and Curtis,
I want to start with an easy and proven system as recommended in MS manuals. If the system works and is well tuned then I might change to a nicer looking setup.
My MS system is the V2.2. Right now my budget doesn't allow changing to MS3-pro but might consider it for the future.
My biggest problem now is to find the right software.
Werner
The megamanual will walk you right through it.
It looks daunting but break it down into small bits and it starts to make sense.
Just stay away from the forums that thrive on the "techno talk" most of them have no idea of what is going on.
Cheers
Fred
Hey Curtis,
I just dug my TR8 out of storage and had to try the suzi coils out.
They will fit pretty well but I'm trying really hard to keep this one stock.
IMGP9287.JPG
IMGP9288.JPG
IMGP9289.JPG
That looks pretty good Fred. I'm still about a year away from going to MS-III but that could be the answer.
Jim
Nope. It can't be done. It'll never work. (If I give that kind of feedback, you'll get motivated to prove me wrong. Right?)
Well... here's a quick snapshot to show what I've decided to do instead.
Preview-IgnitionCoilBracket.jpg
Quite a lot of work remains... Details to follow.
Wow! Curtis, You never cease to amaze me! I would have never thought of a mount like that, and I've been accused of thinking outside the box.
Guess that is your surprise, huh? Looks pretty good and definitely tricky. Should go well with your custom plenum.
Jim
Jaques and Jim,
I think Edis is the way to go for simple installation. I got info from Megasquirt UK and bought several partsfrom them when I was working in the UK.
What MS system do you have ? I have the older V2.2 system. Do you know if this works with Edis ?
WWhat software did you download ?
Jaques, I live in Lynchburg, VA. Might get together some day.
The support bracket you see on this thread is the one I bought in the UK from Megasquirt.co.uk
For the moment I am still working on the welding of new doorsills. The old ones were rusted out.
I'll keep you informed.
Werner
Werner, I used EDIS with the 2.2, it works well, is relatively simple and very reliable. The laptop timing control is VERY good.
I will be going to MS3 sometime over the next year or so but have to build the controller first, as well as the rest of the system and as it is a complex one involving other modules linked together via CAN bus I am going to do that after the car is running on the old MS2 controller using the existing 3.57 board. The new system will use COP as well as individual EGTs.
Jim
This morning I finally ordered some spark plug wires! I had been procrastinating for way too long.
Here's an updated snapshot of my engine bay with everything bolted down tight. I ended up putting an eight-way connector on the coil pack for the eight signal leads, plus a three-way connector for the power and two ground leads. Additional close-up photos: here (http://www.britishv8.org/MG/CurtisJacobson.htm).
(http://www.britishv8.org/MG/CurtisJacobson/CoilPack-SideView.jpg)
(A couple tie-wraps have been left off, just in case I need to troubleshoot anything.)
What are you guys working on lately?
I love those invisible plug wires. :-) everything looks great Curtis. your work is "TOP SHELF"
Curtis, I have a question for you?
Does your ls2 truck coils have the heat sink attached to them?
I'm looking for two sets of these with the heat sinks attached to them in the recycle yards (they seem to be the most powerful on the market).
I was able to find a 408 R200 diff that was laying on the ground (still in the suspension) under a Nissan 300zx in the yard. Picked it up for $75, "what a steel"(normally $250 on up). I going to install it into the TR6 and play a little :-)
Thanks Kelly! However, I pick and choose photos carefully to maintain that illusion.
------
4.08 vs 3.45:1, eh Calvin? As if your car needed help launching! I guess with your double overdrive, you won't be sacrificing too much.
QuoteDo your ls2 truck coils have the heat sink attached to them?
Yes! This snapshot shows their back side. I hope they don't get too hot inside the box!
(http://www.britishv8.org/MG/CurtisJacobson/CoilPack-Harness.jpg)
Cover needs some louvers. :)
Hey Curtis,
Where did you pick up your coils?
Used, on eBay. I can't find a record of which seller or what I paid. I think they came off of two different cars, because one of the steel brackets was a little rusty and the other wasn't.
FYI: Go to "My Ebay" then click on "Purchase History". You can look thru recent purchases or archive (last 3 years).
Looks like I paid $129.50 shipping included from seller "bding44". That seller currently has three styles of Chevy coils for sale, but not the LS2 truck kind (with finned aluminum heat sinks.)
Here's how the wires turned out:
(http://www.britishv8.org/MG/CurtisJacobson/Ignition-B1.jpg)
Very nice Curtis, your engine bay looks great!
Curtis,
Not a bad price for the coils and brackets shipped . I just paid $109.00 for brand new ones for 8 coils + shipping, but 2 sets of them for the Ls1 engines. Then I bought 16 connector pigtails for them. Picked up the pigtails from "autowiresolutions" e-bayer I believe for $145.00 shipped.
Curtis, a very sanitary and professional looking install there!
16 connector pigtails and 1 Ls2 truck coil. The Ls1 coil connectors will not work, so they need to be changed out.
2014-01-3122.15.30.jpg
box of 16 Ls2 truck coils with aluminum heat sinks.
2014-01-3122.15.58.jpg
After various delays and distractions...
The GOOD NEWS is that I hit the starter button this morning and my engine fired right up on it's new ignition system!
It didn't miss a single beat. I ran it until it came up to full temperature, then shut it down and came back in the house. Needs some tuning. Too much ignition advance at idle. Bogs a bit when I tap the throttle. (That might be a fuel issue, eh?) My old Sun tach isn't working right with MS3-Pro driving it, but I expect that won't be a big deal to sort out.
Here's the most important thing I've learned lately:
If you use a half-moon cam position trigger, make sure to use it with a Hall effect (3-wire) sensor.
I've made recent updates to my Photo Gallery page (http://www.britishv8.org/MG/CurtisJacobson.htm).
Here is a new photo and caption about cam position sensors:
(http://www.britishv8.org/MG/CurtisJacobson/HallEffectSensor.jpg)
The Ford shaft was cut in diameter and length. We milled flats onto its end to drive a Buick oil
pump. Note how it has a "half moon wheel" at the top instead of one with one or more narrow
teeth. The sensor at right came with it; it's a VR (variable reluctance) 2-wire sensor. I prefer
to instead use the Hall effect 3-wire sensor at left. This particular Airtex Wells sensor (part#
5S1283) is an improved version of a Hall effect sensor Ford used in the 1990s. It features an
over-molded magnet instead of one that can shake loose. The functional advantage of a Hall
effect sensor in combination with a half moon wheel is quicker starts. MS3-Pro can "poll" cam
position when the crank sensor detects a missing tooth and immediately sync ignition timing.
(I had lots of sync errors when I tried to use the VR sensor. Note also that the connector shown in this photo is the 2-wire kind for the Ford VR sensor. I didn't find a source for the appropriate 3-wire connector so I had to buy a pigtail, which was a bit costly.)
Thats great news Curtis!! I'm glad to see that the hall effect sensor worked out for you!
Some day if I have some extra time, I may have to convert mine over to hall effect.
Bill
I've got the two wire pickup with a narrow vane. Are you saying that the Hall effect will work better, or that it's just better with the half-moon vane?
Jim
Jim, with half moon and three-wire together I believe you should get slightly quicker starts. Other than that, I'm not aware of a tangible performance difference between my set-up and yours. (Once you have sync, you have sync, right?)
I corrected trigger angle offset (no more bog!), and then took my car for a long test drive. Car is running GREAT!!!!
Fast starts. Noticeably smoother at idle. Still gotta fix the tach... Then I guess I'll try switching from batch-fire to sequential injection.
Curtis, Great job! You are going to be the go to guy for info on the Megasquirt setup!
So, I know it's a little late to the party, but,
came up with another coil choice.
These are for a Subaru WRX.
IMGP9434.JPG
IMGP9432.JPG
They are a logic level setup so pretty much anything can run them.
They fit perfectly under the valve cover lip.
IMGP9431.JPG
A small bracket and you're good to go.
Cheers
Fred
Not bad Fred. Logic level you say? That's ideal for the MS I am thinking. What sort of bracket are you planning to use? And about how much do they run? A bit of info on the connector would be nice too and whether or not the connector bodies and crimp pins are available or we're stuck with junkyard pigtails.
Jim