Hello,
I really like the project journal page, however I do miss the comments and useful advice from other readers. This will be kind of a copy of my project journal, but here you can say whatever you feel like. Enjoy!
These are some before shots... They were taken during the summer of 2010. One year earlier I inherited the car from my father who had bought it in 1999. I had always liked the Porsche 911 and considered selling the TR, but in the end I decided to keep it, although in slightly changed form. The plan is to fit a Honda S2000 engine with Jenvey individual throttle bodies and standalone engine management. Suspension and brakes will also be seriously upgraded. The general appearence should remain fairly original (except from the wider Compomotive wheels and lowered stance).
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn93/KristofVanPachterbeke/TR4%20S2000/IMG_8150.jpg)
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn93/KristofVanPachterbeke/TR4%20S2000/IMG_8149.jpg)
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn93/KristofVanPachterbeke/TR4%20S2000/IMG_8140.jpg)
Dismantling the car in the fall of 2010...
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn93/KristofVanPachterbeke/TR4%20S2000/IMG_8179.jpg)
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn93/KristofVanPachterbeke/TR4%20S2000/IMG_8184.jpg)
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn93/KristofVanPachterbeke/TR4%20S2000/IMG_8188.jpg)
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn93/KristofVanPachterbeke/TR4%20S2000/IMG_8189.jpg)
Test fit of the S2000 engine in the original chassis. We fabricated engine and transmission mounts and already started with the routing of the stainless steel exhaust. I wrapped the header in "Cool It Thermo-Tec Copper Header Wrap". Afterwards we removed the engine and cut the chassis in parts because the chassis builders needed certain parts for the new item...
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn93/KristofVanPachterbeke/TR4%20S2000/IMG_8196.jpg)
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn93/KristofVanPachterbeke/TR4%20S2000/IMG_8197.jpg)
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn93/KristofVanPachterbeke/TR4%20S2000/IMG_8198.jpg)
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn93/KristofVanPachterbeke/TR4%20S2000/IMG_8199.jpg)
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn93/KristofVanPachterbeke/TR4%20S2000/IMG_8200.jpg)
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn93/KristofVanPachterbeke/TR4%20S2000/IMG_8201.jpg)
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn93/KristofVanPachterbeke/TR4%20S2000/IMG_8202.jpg)
We started with a completely new slate. This a custom made chassis by the TR experts from CTM Engineering. They are building these beautiful chassis in not much more than a shack, but the craftsmanship is second to none. The owner of CTM is by no means a purist and was very helpful in customizing his product to meet my wishes. This is what we picked up a few months later after ordering.
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn93/KristofVanPachterbeke/TR4%20S2000/IMG_8279.jpg)
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn93/KristofVanPachterbeke/TR4%20S2000/IMG_8280.jpg)
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn93/KristofVanPachterbeke/TR4%20S2000/IMG_8281.jpg)
(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn93/KristofVanPachterbeke/TR4%20S2000/IMG_8282.jpg)
04/12/2012
I bought a high capacity air compressor and a sand blasting cabinet to strip the paint off parts and wheels. This is part of the result. The parts have now been delivered to a company who will put on a corrosion resistant coating. Assembly shoud start within one week!
(http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/3069/img8984p.jpg)
(http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/9391/img8976e.jpg)
(http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/1447/img8979y.jpg)
(http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/3193/img8982q.jpg)
This morning I received a message saying that my parts had been coated. After work I rushed to Antwerp to collect my box with suspension and brake parts. Here's what they look like now. Assembly can begin, the weather is just awful this week!
(http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/5050/gecoat07.jpg)
(http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/6073/gecoat02.jpg)
(http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/9813/gecoat04.jpg)
(http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/2654/gecoat03.jpg)
Last year in June we made another trip to the UK. This time we went to Racetorations in Gainsborough to pick up some very cool stuff. We bought the following parts:
°AP Racing front big brake kit with 4 piston calipers
°Alfin rear drums, uprated brake shoes
°Quick steering rack
°Front and rear anti roll bars
°Aluminium shock absorber brackets
°Adjustable upper A-arms
They have a TR4 for sale which has been beautifully rebuilt and upgraded. Especially the front and rear fenders were amazing. They are expensive aluminium ones, but have also been widened about one inch front and rear. You can see that the magnesium Minilite wheels with zero offset fit perfectly! Definitely something to look into when we get to that stage. Here are some pictures...
(http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/2509/img4248a.jpg)
(http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/9680/img4250u.jpg)
(http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/725/img4255m.jpg)
Today I started the assembly of the front suspension. However, I would like to fit new trunnions. If there are people who have good experiences with remanufactured 3° castor trunnions, can always post it here. I have heard to many horror stories about poorly fitting trunnions on original vertical links. I will try to post pictures tomorrow.
Pretty sweet! And you can make a good bit selling that OD transmission that you took out.
Because I was curious to see everything assembled, I used the old trunnions for now to put together the front suspension. You can see the alloy hubs, adjustable upper A-arms, AP Racing brake calipers and drilled and ventilated discs...
In the picture with the brakes installed, you might see that I didn't pack the bearings with grease yet. As I said, I was curious!
(http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/2702/img9002s.jpg)
(http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/9974/img9006q.jpg)
(http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/6094/img9007su.jpg)
(http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/6411/img9010o.jpg)
(http://img802.imageshack.us/img802/2936/img9011v.jpg)
(http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/2091/img9012g.jpg)
(http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/1609/img9013xy.jpg)
(http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/9629/img9014j.jpg)
@ Alan Blackwood: chances are that I will have to buy a second TR4 to pass yearly controls. Therefor I will keep the very good engine and gearbox as spare parts.
I contacted a TR Register member in the UK to help me out with the lower trunnion question. He had had problems with the quality of reproduction parts and knew where to get the good stuff. I ordered the parts straight away. This means that, if everything goes well, the front suspension and brakes will be assembled by the end of next week.
Cheers,
Kristof.
Very nice work. I am very interested in knowing where I can get the "good" 3 degree trunnions.
Dale
I would also be interested in where to purchase "good" 3 degree trunnions? Like the looks of the adjustable upper a arms too?
Great work Kristof.
Calvin
PMs sent.
Regards,
Kristof.
Hi,
I ordered the parts on Thursday with Rimmer Bros in the UK and they were delivered yesterday by the UPS courier. Nothing compares to those guys. Super speedy delivery, perfect tracking options, friendly people to deal with. Great experience time and again. I have already refused to buy parts from people who don't work with UPS.
The trunnions look OK, but I haven't had time to fit them yet. I will post pictures as soon as they are in place. Next week I will remove the entire front right assembly and take it to Intrax Suspension. They are going to build me a custom fully adjustable suspension. We are right on target to have a rolling chassis by the end of this year.
I have also ordered my Compomotive ML alloy wheels today. Sizes are 7 x 15 ET-12. No idea what kind of tires I will be running, but the Toyo R888 are so sexy to look at that they are my first thought:-)
Does anyone know what size of tires I need to keep the original circumference? The tires that are now on the wire wheels do not have a height ratio.
Regards,
Kristof.
Kristof,
I love what you are doing.
I don't know how wide you want or how much sidewall, but if your stock tires are 165SR15 then they would be 25.39 inches in diameter. A 225/60/15 would get you 25.6 inches. There is a good calculator at http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
George
Hi George,
I definitely do not want the same circumference as before. Since the car will now have a 9000rpm redline and the Nissan R200 has a 4.1:1 ratio, I will need smaller tires.
I am looking for 205/55 R15 or even 205/50 R15 tires. I am currently looking for a set of Kumho KU36 or Toyo R1R. Maybe not the pursist's choice, but I prefer stick over originality haha.
Compomotive wheels have been ordered, they should arrive in a week or three. The front suspension has been completed except for springs and shocks. Those will be ordered as soon as possible.
Cheers,
Kristof.
I came up with the idea to put the F20C combo into my father's TR4a which I have recently inherited and just stumbled across this thread. The difference with my potential project is that my car is a solid axle TR4A.
I had a few questions... I am curious however how the shifter lines up with the stock position? Regarding your new frame - was it designed with any specific consideration for the swap (i.e. for oil pan clearance, repositioned supports?).
Is that a stock un-touched 4-1 manifold on the F20C? Seems to tuck in perfectly. Any close up shots of the mounts?
Here we are again with a few updates. First of all, the wheels and tires have arrived.
Compomotive ML1570
7 x 15 -12 offset
Kumho Ecsta KU36
205/50/15 86W (not that we will ever need the 168mph speed index ;-)
Here are the pictures...
(http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/3368/img9048j.jpg)
(http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/5535/img9050f.jpg)
Before I could assemble the rear trailing arms, I upgraded them by fitting Keenserts. I was afraid that the original UNF studs would be torn out of the alloy arms once full throttle was to be used. The process has already been described on other websites, but here are some pictures of how I did it.
When I removed the nyloc nuts that retained the hubs and brake back plate, two studs already came along.
(http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/97/img9015kg.jpg)
(http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/5061/img9016l.jpg)
(http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/2188/img9017c.jpg)
The third studs I removed like this.
(http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/3596/img9018g.jpg)
(http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/1517/img9019s.jpg)
I used the kit from Patton Machine to drill and tap new UNC threaded holes in the trailing arms. Then I inserted and locked the Keenserts.
(http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/5791/img9020i.jpg)
(http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/2582/img9028n.jpg)
(http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/9950/img9022g.jpg)
(http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/7847/img9021o.jpg)
Rear brakes: Racetorations competion brake shoes and lightweight alloy drums.
Despite the horsepower, I have decided not to fit rear disc brakes. I believe that, when kept in good working order, drum brakes in the rear are more than adequate considering that they only provide a small part of the total braking power.
(http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/3163/img9051tk.jpg)
(http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/5995/img9052t.jpg)
(http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/3529/img9053tq.jpg)
Rolling chassis...
The front is resting on wooden blocks instead of the springs. This is the ride height that I am aiming for.
(http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/7571/img9054s.jpg)
(http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/4417/img9055l.jpg)
(http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/9687/img9056n.jpg)
(http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/1816/img9057o.jpg)
(http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/170/img9058g.jpg)
(http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/4926/img9059v.jpg)
Thanks for showing how to do the inserts.
George
No problem. I followed the how-to on this website. It is more elaborate than mine.
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TAJig.htm
The kit comes from this website.
www.pattonmachine.com
Regards,
Kristof.
I'm curious what the plan is for the dash/gauges?
@ Richie A: The dashboard is not a project for the very near future, but I do have a few parts in mind already. My personal preference goes to Stack gauges, tachometer and speedometer. I still haven't decided upon the style of the interior/dashboard: race car or daily driver.
Next is the engine install, brake lines and differential overhaul.
Regards,
Kristof.
Sorry to monopolize on this thread but I am looking forward to seeing how the shifter lines up with the stock interior. As you had already fitted the drivetrain in the chassis do you know how well it fits vs stock?
The shifter will be located a few incher further back than the original one, but since the interior won't be original either, I will correct this partially with the location of the seats, steering and pedals. The shifter itself will also be modified to locate the gear knob more forward. I have few worries about this problem.
Regards,
Kristof.
Any updates? Very anxious to see the progress :)
Also I'm curious what made you decide on 15x7 vs 15x6? Most race cars I've found online are all running 15x6's with 205/60's. Tire selection is very poor for 205/60's however the 7" rim seem to usually get the vote that they will cause rubbing issues along with sticking out quite a bit. Were you going to be flaring your fenders?
Cheers,
Richie
Hi-
What rear axle hubs did you use? They don't look like stock Triumph parts.
Thanks,
Chad
Kristof,
A question has come up about the front suspension wishbones. The lower mounts to the frame appear to be stock TR4A. Triumph upgraded on the TR6 to a two bolt bracket instead of one. Is there a reason you didn't do that upgrade. Thanks,
Dan B
Hello,
I haven't been here for a while nor near the car for that matter. 2 months ago I started another project that will keep me busy until it will turn 18 years old -best case scenario ;-) - and we are also looking for a new house. I can't give you any updates for now, but I will answer your questions.
The lower whishbone bracket are the later ones with the double stud (as in the TR5-6). A few years back the orginal bracket broke and let's just say I didn't want something like that to happen again.
The hubs are the included in the Goodparts CV axle kit and are beautifully machined parts.
You can see the reason for the 7" - 0 offset wheels on the previous page. I really like the stance of the yellow car built by Racetorations.
Questions are still more than welcome, but unfortunately updates will not be for the next few months.
Kind regards,
Kristof.
Congratulations on your new "project!"
It was apparently more difficult to decide what I wanted to do with the engine exactly than I first thought.
Here are the plans...
Since many F20C engines suffer engine damage as a result of a broken valve, the head will be rebuilt with aftermarket components. Camshafst will be left alone, since very few manufacturers can prove horsepower gains with theirs.
On the induction side -and this I am very excited about- two double Weber DCOE carburetors will do the work. I came in touch with a man who is a real Weber wizard and who also happens to rebuild/tune F20C engines. When I asked about the Vtec, he assured me that the Vtec and the Webers could work perfectly together. I believe the sound, performance and the look will be second to none.
For the ignition we will take a KMS ignition only module. This will also send the Vtec signal.
By the end of the year I should have the entire engine back.
Another small update.
Today I picked up a brand new clutch kit from Helix Autosport. Parts are superb quality! I wonder what it will feel like on the road.
I also ordered a custom made fuel tank from Andy Wiltshire in the UK. The tanks that he builds, have received many great reviews by his customers. I specified a 56 liter (extra large size) tank with JIC fittings for fuel feed and return and a VDO dip tube style fuel level sensor. Let's hope this will work together nicely with my Stack fuel level gauge.
I am looking for a alumium radiator with a large puller fan, but still haven't found a rad that ticks all my boxes. Anyone with a suggestion? (preferably in the UK)
I'll post pictures when the fuel tank is here.
Regards.
What is this dip tube you refer to?
Jim
http://www.proalloy.co.uk/cgi-bin/sitewise.pl?act=det&pt=52_921_139&p=1051&id=proalloy
Appears to be the best in the business. The Stack fuel level gauge can be configured accordingly.
Kristof.
So still a resistor wire and contact system the same as with a pivot float. Disappointing. You would think modern technology could produce something better.
Jim
Modern Technology Here -> http://www.gillsensors.co.uk/content/fuel_level_sensors.htm
Actually they've been used in jets for over 50 years...
@ Frizzle Fry
I had been looking at those, but I am not looking for 1% accuracy in the fuel level gauge:-)
The signal output is also not compatible with my Stack fuel gauge.
Beautiful product though!
Capacitive, yes that makes sense. Probably two close fitting tubes and presence of a liquid changes the capacitance between them. Measure that and calibrate it. Not complicated or difficult and no moving parts. Well, once sender failures become common under warranty we will get those.
Jim
Jim,
Your remark made me thinking about these Gill sensors. However, when I got my quotation for a sensor and display earlier today, I was very happy again with my VDO fuel level sensor and Stack Pro Control gauge. A sender and gauge would set me back more than £700 ($1130). I must admit that I like to fit high quality items to my car, but the fuel level is not of such essence that I want to spend my entire November budget on that info :-)
I hope that you don't think any less of the project now, but I believe that my choice is a good one.
Kind regards,
Kristof.
So do I. Prices will only come down when the auto industry adopts them. As it is, the wiper style usually survives the warranty period. Now let warranties go to 100K+ miles and this may change rather quickly.
Jim
Hello,
Yesterday I received the first oil system parts. You can see the Mocal oil cooler, Mocal oil thermostat, Aeroquip Startlite Racing hose, Aeroquip straight, 45° and 90° fittings and adapters. All fittings are rather large -10 JIC/AN fittings, just to be on the safe side of things.
I am still waiting for the Canton Racing remote oil filter take off plate and the remote oil filter mount. They should be here within 4 weeks. After that the installation can begin.
I would just like to express my gratitude to the people at Think Automotive for their patience, helpful advice and very quick dispatch. Since I am a total n00b when it comes to JIC, AN, NPT, BSP... fittings, I was really glad to be assisted by such knowledgeable folks!
(http://imageshack.us/a/img203/3286/img9175y.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img526/3715/img9176t.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img515/3071/img9174u.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img4/1100/img9173b.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img692/1678/img9172d.jpg)
Great looking products!!
Thanks! This project will take a little bit longer than I first anticipated, but I would like to do things first time right than to do it over again later on.
I saw the Youtube video of Frizzel Fry's S2000 conversion and I really found new energy to clean up the workshop and get back at it.
More updates are coming...
Great news! I just received an e-mail from Andy Wiltshire. My fuel tank is ready and should be here before the end of this week.
Here (http://www.andywiltshire.com//) is Andy's website. I am very curious to see it in person. You'll be the first to see the photos.
Regards,
Kristof.
I sandblasted the plug cover, masked off the letters and sprayed the cover with VHT wrinkle paint. I am quite satisfied with the result.
The valve cover is next. However, because this has extensive baffling on the inside, I didn't blast it in my sand blasting cabinet. No matter how good you plug all the holes, sand will end up in places where you can't see and reach. And I don't want my engine to be the victim of engine bay aesthetics:-)
I plugged all holes, used paint stripper and carefully wiped all the paint away. Painting and baking will be for tomorrow.
Here's the plug cover...
(http://imageshack.us/a/img528/5030/img9178y.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img405/6700/img9179k.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img152/6079/img9180.jpg)
The uprated clutch kit is from Helix Autosport in the UK. I have thought about getting a complete flywheel + clutch, but two things made me decide otherwise.
The original flywheel was still in very good condition and my tuner advised me not to spend my money on a lightweight flywheel that would compromise daily driving. On several S2000 forums, people are getting ever lighter flywheels, but some parts should be left the way Honda intended them.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img96/8317/img9181zd.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img38/391/img9182u.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img692/7821/img9183v.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img819/7150/img9184wa.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img803/9371/img9185l.jpg)
Today we have some good news...
Aluminium fuel tank with -08 AN fuel supply and -06 AN fuel return fitting, maximum internal baffling and the VDO fuel level sender.
Beautiful welds and extremely lightweight! And I have never received a part that was wrapped like this one.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img600/9242/img9186k.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img145/3/img9189.jpg)
The fittings and fuel level sender...
(http://imageshack.us/a/img837/5969/img9188v.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img803/6189/img9187r.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img109/3544/img9191h.jpg)
And some bad news...
The wrinkle finish paint was a great success on the plug cover. However, on the valve cover it was very hard to avoid overspray and the paint wrinkled very unevenly during baking.
Today I removed all the paint with paint remover and took the cover to my painter who does the bodywork of all our cars. I decided to have it painted high gloss black with a mirror finish. Since I intend to have an very clean engine bay, I believe that this isn't overkill.
A few pictures of today's failure...
(http://imageshack.us/a/img404/6704/img9192x.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img822/354/img9193cp.jpg)
I got a phone call yesterday from the body shop that the valve cover was finally finished. I decided not to go for the high gloss black. Instead I chose Ferrari Rosso Corsa (DuPont 322). When I went to pick it up, I was afraid to touch the cover. It looked as if it was still wet. The colour is just amazing. I hope you like it too.
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2419ohd.jpg)
I have to use an oil filter take off plate and remote oil filter mount because in its original location the oil filter interfered with the chassis and because I will install the oil cooler kit mentioned before. I chose products from Canton Racing because they simply are beautifully machined parts.
(http://i62.tinypic.com/2e31wy8.jpg)
(http://i61.tinypic.com/fa800x.jpg)
(http://i61.tinypic.com/nxmlg6.jpg)
(http://i60.tinypic.com/14n21g.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/e5l100.jpg)
Hello everyone!
It has been more than a while since I last posted here. However, new progress is on the way. The engine is completely ready to be installed. The engine was completely rebuilt, stroked and tuned. This is the result...
(http://i59.tinypic.com/x3h6qt.jpg)
As you can see, the redline has been reduced to about 8000 rpm, but the hike in torque is really astonishing. Me very happy!
The engine will be mounted on a test frame. Then I will add rad, oil cooler, fuel tank, surge tank, fuel pump, filter, lines... and all sensors and Stack gauges. When everything works, it will be transplanted into the TR frame. More pics soon!
Regards,
Kristof.