Anyone know of one that'll fit in there? Wilwood has a couple that might fit -- best one looks to be 260-8794 but at a little over 7" long it may be too long. Wondering what else is out there.
I have enough pedal to test drive this weekend but will need to swap the master before really driving it around.
What insurance did you end up with Rob?? Ageed Value and how many miles a year?? Or did you do an Agreed value on top of normal insurance?
I'm shopping around right now!
Sorry for being off subject.
No worries Calvin. I haven't insured it yet -- need to get it out of the garage to send pics which I'll be doing this weekend when I do the 1st test drive :). Am going with ANPAC/Chrome. Declared as Modified/Custom; 10k mile/yr restriction; $21K agreed value; 300/500 liability; $500 deductables for collision & comprehensive. Right about $400/yr. Requires it not be a daily driver; must have other primary vehicles for each driver in the household.
Runner up was American Collecors -- 7.5k mile limit (they call it "Freedom level"); same valuation & generally the same restrictions but $1000 deductable. Initial quote came back at $499/yr but it didn't note it was modified. When I asked them about that they said it was quoted as a standard MGB & sent an updated quote -- $915/yr.
Rob, I like the 1" Corvette style in the Speedway catalog,probably in Summit and Jegs also.Meant for 4 wheel discs and fittings can go on either side.That is for newer pedal box. For older models I use dual masters with balance bar. You can also look at some import ones(Toyota,Nissan,Subaru) that look similar to stock at rockauto.com. Maybe 79-81 Nissan 280ZX 15/16".You could use remote reservoirs. Banjo fittings (probably 10mmx1.0) to IFF to residual valves to existing lines.Silver Mine Motors has best price at $85. Looking forward to seeing the car pics!
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That 79-81 Nissan 280ZX 15/16" one looks good Jim. Looks to be the same casting as the Wilwood one I found @ Summit (although Wilwood's is 1") at about 1/2 the price. Looks like a re-man one goes for as little as $45 too which makes it worth trying out if it's not too long. About the only think I could see that would be better is if the ports were on the other side.
Is there a way to search RockAuto or some other site using specs like bore diameter, dual circuit, etc.?
Rob, I don't know if this will work but, it gets good reviews. Meant for 4 wheel discs. 93-95 Non ABS Toyota 1" FJ80-built in residual valves.V6 Pickup,FourRunner,Land Cruiser,T-100 truck. Only the FJ80 Land Cruiser has built in rear residual valve as it has rear discs stock. Would have to drill 4 holes for mount and open up original opening.Looks shorter than Wilwood and cap is forward.
allprooffroadfj80.jpg
Rob and Calvin,
I just got a quote last week from Hagerty. 300/500 liability, 500 deductible, 25K agreed value, collector plates, nondaily driver, for 360/year. They know it is modified and they are OK with it still not having an interior or most body panels. I went with them and didn't call anyone else because I used them in the past (I never had a claim though).
George
Hagerty's policy has pretty tight usage restrictions -- at least the policies they write in TX do (each state is different). In TX the policy only includes hobby use -- parades, going to/from a club mtg or repair shop; etc. Running down to the local gas station for a loaf of bread wouldn't be covered as an example. Read your contract to be sure.[/I] For a minor accident you'd probably never have a problem even if you were outside the limits of the restrictions but in a situation where there was a major liability involved you could be denied coverage if you were outside of the usage restrictions. You could stand to lose a house, savings, etc. resulting from a law suit in a situation like that. It's just not worth the risk IMO.
Rob, Here is a compact 1" master. 90-96 Acura Integra LS. Looks like you could use the Wilwood remote reservoir but outlets are on the right side.
getimage.jpg
I've been scanning a bunch of them -- haven't found a site that lets you search for things like bore or flange "orientation" but PartsBin.com at least has pics & lists the bore.
Do most of the ones w/single reservoirs have a divider? I'm guessing so because if not, would seem to defeat the point of a dual circuit master I think.
Rob, The 1" master I show above is for ABS,non-ABS is 15/16". Mid 80's Honda Accord looks the same but is 7/8". Here is how the dual master single reservoir works:
getimage.jpg
Hey Jim,
I spend a lot of my day sourcing parts and making things fit where they weren't meant to.
And I'm the go to guy around here when you get stuck.
But you make me look like a rookie.
I am endlessly amazed at the parts that you come up with.
You are the master, and have my humble respect.
Cheers
Fred
Thanks, Fred! I enjoy finding things that work and helping others.
Thanks Jim -- 15/16 will likely be ok. Don't really know what I need or how to calculate it. Just can tell the 3/4" MC isn't pushing enough fluid.
My plan is to try something in this range & adjust from there. That's one reason I'm focusing on the less expensive ones. The one delimma I have is the ones identified so far (by you and a few I found on RockAuto) aren't stocked locally -- I'd have to order & pay just to be able to see it. I know I need one that's no longer than 6 1/2" from face of the flange to furthest back point -- haven't found any on-line resources with measured diagrams yet. There must be one out there though. That way I can rule out the ones that will be too long.
Rob, I know that Acura 15/16" is short enough but I wonder if the reservoir is too tall or far back. I think it would be just right for your Wilwood front brakes but, I think you would need a proportioning valve to turn down the rear brakes a bit. I would cut the mounting ears down just below the bolt holes and drill new mounting holes to make it more compact. Those were the shortest looking ones I could find. I'll try to find a measurement for you. You could get one at the wrecking yard and if it will work,buy a kit to rebuild or use for core charge on new or remanufactured. 88-89 Accord(only 7/8 though) and 90-91 Prelude SI (15/16)look the same and dirt cheap,no core required at Rockauto.com.$30-$50. Picture of Prelude:
getimage91Prelude.jpg
Here is another compact master cylinder(7/8").1999 Honda Civic EX. Looks like you could turn reservoir around for backward facing early MGB.
getimage1999civicsi.jpg
Thanks Jim. I like the reservoir on that one... but given how soft my pedal is with 3/4", I think 15/16 or 1" is what I'm going to need. I picked up a 15/16" one since it's in the middle of the range (7/8-1"). Going to try that & see how it works & go from there. eBay seems to be a great way to find stuff like this to try out -- used, but cheap so if it doesn't work out it's not the end of the world.
Yeah, I just posted the other one for those who need a 7/8". In my experience with Toyota 4 piston calipers (about the same piston size as your Wilwood) 15/16" is perfect. Your rear brakes are somewhat large and probably need a proportioning valve. If you went 1", it would be perfect for the rear brakes but, a little large for the front and produce a harder pedal feel. Are you getting the Acura or the Prelude one I show? Remember to bench bleed first. Also the push rod may have to be adapted and just a little slack(1/4" freeplay at pedal). Usually the fittings are 10mmX1.0 if one looks larger it is 12MMX1.0. Use a short separate line with Metric on one side and Inverted flare on the other.Then to 2 LB residual valves, then to your existing lines.. These masters are meant for 4 wheel discs but use a separate residual block. Good luck and keep us posted.
Thanks Jim - the one I got is the Legend LS one. Ports are on the right and look like they'll clear the pedal box. I already modified the ears and drilled new mounting holes. Haven't found a reservoir yet but local bone yard says they have the prelude one & I think it'll fit. In the mean time I've jerry-rigged a reservoir using some poly tubing and a pvc fitting for the cap. Should work well enough to try it out. Hope to get it swappwd in tomorrow or Weds nite. Will keep you guys posted.
Cool! Boy, you got it fast! How long is it?
Can you post a photo of the end where the clevis goes in. Does that piece in the Photo come out and does it have a snap ring to hold a normal push rod in or did Honda use a different setup?
Quote: "How long is it?"
-- Measured a couple of days ago -- was shorter than stock MC -- about 5 3/4" if I recall.
Quote: "Does that piece in the Photo come out and does it have a snap ring to hold a normal push rod in or did Honda use a different setup?"
-- Don't know what Honda used, just have the MC. Does have a snap ring that holds the tube extension you see in. That tube acts like a push rod. I haven't taken it apart yet to see whether it makes sense to try & use a regular push rod in place of the tube or maybe use a push rod inserted into the tube... will be spending some time on that this evening I hope. Will post photos once I figure it out & set it up.
Probably just insert the pushrod in the tube. Rob is trailblazing this one. Looks very promising so far. I wonder if the Honda reservoir is forward enough (for the backward mount early pedal box)or the Wilwood remote reservoir can be made to fit. These masters can be found cheaper than the stock ones and availability is better also. May become the master cylinder of choice in conversions with larger brakes.
Well, push rod on this one probably doesn't matter unless there's a short reservoir. Take a look @ the comparison...
2011-02-15BrakeMastermeasurements3.JPG
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Height of the reservoir can go about 4.25" from the side of the box where I'm measuring. This one is almost 2" too tall too...
2011-02-15BrakeMastermeasurements6.JPG
The hole where the reservoir connects measures 1 11/16 (it's probably a metric size but it's very close to that). I have a Tilton 75 & the reservoirs for it have a smaller diameter hole. Not sure what size the Wilwood MC's use.
I think I'm going to punt on this one & search around to see if I can find a version of the Honda Civic one that Jim posted earleir but in 15/16 or 1". Seems like most of these MC's are available in a few different diameters so may get lucky.
Rob, That is what I was worried about, I have another idea. I wonder if you can look at the clutch master reservoirs on the Honda's in the wrecking yard-they are remote and maybe the part that fits on the clutch master will fit on the brake master. Scratch the clutch master idea, I saw a picture and it uses a small threaded fitting. That gives me another idea- how about threading the part the reservoir goes on with pipe thread and using a reducer bushing with a small nipple to run hose to remote reservoir.
1998 Chevy Tracker ABS is 15/16" and very short with reservoir forward.
CE130_48012.jpg
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Quote: how about threading the part the reservoir goes on with pipe thread and using a reducer bushing with a small nipple to run hose to remote reservoir
That's an interesting idea. I don't really want to do a remote reservoir, but seems like I should be able to use that idea to do a reducer that would let me use the Tilton reservoir. Any ideas on how to do that w/o a lathe? I might get lucky & find a reducer that'll fit, but with the odd ~1 11/16" size, that's unlikely.
1 5/8" pipe threading die would probably work. Female side to master, male fitting slightly larger than Tilton size with threads sanded off. Custom, but should work. Is the Tilton reservoir shorter? It still might be back too far. EDIT: Pipe thread jumps from 1 1/2" to 2" so won't work.
That Tracker one looks interesting. I've been searching RockAuto & found a couple of others that might work too. Most promising is this one if the reservoir will flip around...
2004 FORD ESCAPE 3.0L, 1" bore
2004FordEscape3.0L.jpg
Jim, if I can do a reducer, I think the Tilton 75 reservoir might work; would need to do some measurements. It would basically go straight up from the hole in the MC...
1Tilton75.jpg
I think you can make the Honda one work. I have seen pipe reducers that bell up to smaller sizes.Though the height would go up also. There are a lot of possibilities, you may have to do some junkyard shopping. The side to side mounting might be tight to the clutch cylinder and might have to be ground down on that side.
1998-2005 VW Beetle,Golf,Jetta 15/16" Non ESP (ABS). 12MM x 1.0 fittings.
getimage2000VWJettaV61516.jpg
I saw that same one -- 2002 (and probably other years) Beetle. I haven't looked at the pedal box yet to see if a horizontal flange will work. This would be a lot easier if it was before paint.
Actually the VW mounting is angled and close to the master and should fit. Another idea for the Honda reservoir, angled on Isuzu Trooper,Amiga,Rodeo,93-97 Nissan Altima and 85-90 Mitsubishi clutch masters. Would have to be turned. I know you don't want remote but mid 80's Nissan have this fitting also.
BhM1V2QBWkKGrHqUH-CkEsMRCS1FzBLIEDuE6Kw_12.jpg
M0500.jpg
93-97NissanAltimaclutch.jpg
85-90Mitsubishiclutch.jpg
Picture of VW mounting flange:
getimageVWmount.jpg
Another idea to reduce the Honda down, press a piece of DOM tubing inside, notched for divider?
The honda one only came in 7/8 -- I'm still holding out for a 15/16.
I played with the Acura one I'd bought; no way it's going to fit unless I break down & go w/a remote reservoir. Any ideas on what to use for a cap on the MC side? Would need to put two nipples in it to feed the front/back sections of the MC since it has the divider in the hole.
I also found a MC that I'm pretty sure would work from an Isuzu Trooper. Comes in 7/8 & 15/16" versions & an eBay seller measured his for me (7/8 version). Haven't found anyone who sells the 15/16" version -- even the Isuzu dealer in town (only one left in Hou) says they can't get it?? Are they going out of business?
1986IsuzuTrooper.jpg
Going to see what I can find in the way of reservoirs in the VW line but fastest answer sounds like figuring out a way to remote feed the Acura one I have -- plus that'd be a way to test a 15/16" before spending any more money on this. So that's probaby where I need to keep my attn.
Rob, You can check out some of the clutch masters for remote cap. You would only need one nipple if you could press a notched pipe(for divider) sticking up about 1" for a smaller diameter. Then maybe those angled clutch ones I show above might even fit. What's the I.D. on the Acura opening for the reservoir? Go on Ebay Motors; parts and accessories, type in Ford, Dodge, Nissan etc. clutch master cylinder,shows hundreds. Lots are remote or have small or angled reservoirs.
I'll have to do some looking for a remote cap that'll fit. At almost 1 3/4", the opening is big & there is only about 1/2" above the Acura MC opening & the firewall overhang so not really room for a reducer. I'll probably have to look @ truck clutch masters to find a cap.
Rob, Some Factory 5 Cobra guys use your idea of 2 separate lines and use 1993-98 Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager mini-van remote reservoir which has 2 chambers and one fill cap. You will still have to find a cap to fit the master and put 2 nipples in. How about a windshield washer cap, or industrial type cap?
Look at the cap for a 1976 nissan f10 master cylinder on rock auto. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=309203
This is the master i have on my car. If you think those caps may work, I can probably get a chance to measure them this weekend. I used the remote reservoir from an 80s mitsbishi galant.
Robbie, I think the Acura is larger, Rob said 1 11/16". Both ports are D shaped in one hole. I think as long as it's not flush on the divider you would only need one nipple to the remote reservoir.You never know, be worth a look.
Update -- didn't find a way to make the Acura MC work with a remote reservoir... but, did find a company called "World Trading" while searching on eBay for ones that looked like they might work... they had hundreds listed. Realized they were located close to where I live so I called them up -- net, they let me come down & rummage through what they had -- guy's name was Glenn; couldn't have been more helpful!
Net, I didn't find any 15/16" that would fit w/o doing a remote reservoir and also modifying the mounting hole locations... but, I did find a 7/8" one that needs remote reservoir but it lined up with the existing vertical flange holes. They sold it to me for $25. I've mounted it except the reservoir; will put that on & try it out on Monday. That way I can test the feel beore I modify the pedal box only to potentially have to modify it again (remember it's already painted).
I think the 7/8' will prove to be too soft still, but am checking it anyway for two reasons -- 1st it fits w/o modifying the box... 2nd, I realized my bias valve was set all the way open. I'm not sure, but it seems logical that with the rear bias down, it should direct more fluid to the front & less to the rear?
Also, a question... the 7/8 MC I got has two front outputs... presumaly L & R. Is there any benefit to using both in terms of fluid volume going to the calipers? The MG MC only had 1 so i have a single line to the bias valve to a residual pressure valve & then T out to 2 lines after that. Wondering if using both front MC outputs would help any.
Rob, The bias (proportioning) valve will provide more or less to the rear,front is a separate circuit. I have seen dual ports front and back,probably for different chassis fit. Sometimes for bleeders. I don't see any reason you can't tee off there instead of a different tee. You would need 2 residual valves then though.I found the 85-89 Isuzu Impulse master has the reservoir you like with 7/8" master. It looks like you could use that reservoir with the 90 Trooper master that comes in 1". if you need a bigger master.Here's a picture from World Wide:
85-90IsuzuImpulse.jpg
Another idea for the Acura master, this angled clutch (Isuzu Trooper)cylinder looks like large base,with nipple in lid to remote reservoir.
BhM1V2QBWkKGrHqUH-CkEsMRCS1FzBLIEDuE6Kw_12.jpg
Ok, this is getting frustrating... I spent 1/2 the day at a pick a part... That clutch reservoir is too small for the acura mc. And with only about 2" between the MC and the hood I haven't found a remote reservoir that can be mounted higher than the MC... Must be a way but I don't see how. I'm waiting on measurements on 2 more masters. If they don't fit I'm down to having the remote output below the mc input or resorting to fabricating a new pedal box to hold dual Wilwood or Tiltons and a bias bar. I'm starting to think that'd be faster and cheaper!
Rob,
It is possible to mount the reservior lower than the master. It's not the perfect solution but it works.
The trick is in bleeding the system. You need to get all the air out between the master and the reservoir.
The easiest way to accomplish that is to back bleed the system. You will need a pressure bleeder connected to one of your brakes. The pressure bleeder will feed fluid backwards through your master and fill the reservoir. This will take any air between the two with it. Then its just a matter of always keeping the reservoir full to avoid an air lock.
Back bleeding the entire system is a good idea. The air in the system wants to go uphill. Conventional bleeding tries to make it go downhill. With this method the air gets to go where it wants to and you can easily get all of it out.
A dirt cheap pressure bleeder can be made from a garden sprayer and a few hardware store fittings.
It also takes all the bad words out of clutch bleeding.
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Fred
Fred, Good info. I usually use a extra master cylinder cap with tire valve installed and bicycle pump with guage,pump in 20psi. I don't reverse bleed, but use Speed Bleeders. The best way to bleed your brakes! Rob, can you mount the reservoir in the center of your firewall close to the hood,the bottom of the reservoir should be higher than the master cylinder bore there. Fred is right, if you get all the air out it can be lower. I wish I was closer to help you out. Here is a picture of a Cobra with lower reservoirs along fender also David Townsend on this board mounted his there too.
P1010168small.jpg
brakes.jpg
Thanks guys -- good to know I can have the reservoir outlets below the MC if needed. I can certainly have the remote reservoirs be mounted toward the middle which is a little higher.
How do you figure the Cobra builder sealed the bottom of those reservoirs? Is there a sealant that is resistant to brake fluid? I thought about doing something similar with a reservoir I found @ the salvage yard. It was deisgned with a hole in the bottom through which a hollow bolt passed & screwed into a threaded MC inlet. To use it as a remote reservior I'd have to replace that bolt with some sort of fastener that I could then connect to the MC. I looked at a bunch of barb fittings for poly tubing etc. at the hardware store, but none had enough surface area at the "nut" part to seal against a washer. Wondering what fittings this Cobra used?
Similarly, is there someplace that you can order the MC rubber inlet seals? I found a reservoir that would work great except the barbs on it were too big for the barb holes on the MC that fit's the MG. If I could find the MC inlet gromets for the same size MC hole (grommet outside diameter) but bigger barb hole (grommet inside diameter)? The OD of the grommets are formed to match a machined depression...
Anyway, you sort of get how my yesterday went.
Most of the above is for my learning... I am still thinking one of the following will be what I end up with:
* regular remote mount reservoir
* The Isuzu MC -- measurements say it should fit
* An '89 jag XJ6 MC (looks promising; 15/16"; waiting for some measurements)
Rob, There is an article on the web how the guy with the Cobra did his remotes. I'll try to find it and link. He wanted the Girling style vintage racer look. You can buy those cans new in hardware stores. You can buy bulkhead nozzels in various sizes( 5/16" and 3/8" most commonly used) in straight and 90*in nylon or brass. They use nylon or copper or aluminum crush washers.Should have small hole in cap with diaphram. Excellent brake hose at VW parts outlets. Blue silicone or braided cloth covering. Don't use fuel hose it will soften,swell and seep. Moss has the rubber diaphrams for the Girling lids. Here is another picture of hardware store metal reservoirs and bulkhead fitting:
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Rob, Here's the link for making your own " Vintage" reservoirs: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=247328&highlight=girling+reserviors Notice the last picture uses threaded AN bulkhead and 90* fitting.
Rob;
I experimented with shortening a reservoir by cutting it and plastic welding it together again. It worked well. I bought a cheap plastic welding kit (about maybe $30), There are also people who do plastic welding professionally. The polypropylene (usually) used in reservoirs is easy to work with. Just be sure that the plastic welding rod you use matches the reservoir plastic.
Another possibility if the reservoir is not too tall is to heat it with a heat gun and squash it. Do this with the reservoir attached to the master cylinder and with the cap in place; and try to keep the heat away from the ends.
As I think about it, maybe most reservoirs are made of polyethylene, not polypropylene. In any case, if plastic welding, be sure to match the welding rod to the plastic.
Rob, 92-01 Isuzu Trooper 1". Shortest one yet! Probably needs a spacer in front of flange to move back a little.
9294Trooper.jpg
I looked at some of those at the salvage yard the other day -- no go. The reservoir is way too tall (which might be resolvable with Larry's plastic welding suggestion) but the real issue is the diameter of the part that passes through the hole in the pedal box is as wide as the MC casting itself... so once you cut the existing mounting ears off for it to fit in the pedal box, there's no place left to drill new mounting holes.
I do really want to find an answer that doesn't require remoting the reservoirs. While not the end of the world, I don't like the idea of the hassle of them being lower than the MC's. I looked at mounting them toward the middle of the firewall & that helps but the hoses would have to dip down pretty low to avoid the hood hinge.
I still think the Trooper ones posted above will fit so I've ordered one via eBay -- price wasn't too bad; comes with the reservoir & the guy measured it for me. If the measurements are close to accurate it will fit & since it's available in 7/8 & 1" (& 15/16 as a reman. according to rockauto) it should work for more folks than just me if it does fit. Shipped from CA today so unlikely I'll have it by the weekend but I'm hoping. I also think the cylinder itself is the same as one used on a few Mitsubishi's just with a different reservoir. If I'm right on that it won't be hard to find down the road.
Oh, I did find the Cobra site that talks about making the Girling looking reservoirs... http://www.ffcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=b2ed6a3608621b7dcc617d17d25a14db&t=247328&highlight=girling+reservoirs&page=2. My local HW stores don't have any bulkhead hose barbs that would work -- what they have doesn't have enough of a shoulder on the nut part to use a crush washer. But, I did a quick search on summitracing.com for "an to hose barb" and saw several that looked like they'd work if someone decides to go that route. Even saw some that were 90* instead of just sraight.
Rob, Sounds like a plan! Which one did you order the 7/8" or 1" ? Maybe the stepped reservoir for Impulse and 7/8" Trooper would fit the 1".
I ordered the 7/8" one. It's used on several Isuzu's -- Trooper, Impulse, Pickup. I'm confident the reservoir will fit the 1" '90 Trooper MC if the 7/8 proves to be too small. Checked the shipping notice & says it was shipped USPS from CA but is scheduled to arrive on Fri or Sat -- so might actually get to try it out this weekend.
For those interested in the separate Girling style reservoirs I just found an easy way to make 90* bulkhead fittings . Use a brass 90* 3/8" for 8mm VW hose or 5/16" for 7mm hose, 1/8" NPT to hose barb. Two 3/8" or 10mm crush washers and two 1/8" NPT Lighting nuts(those thin flat ones found in lighting fixtures and lamps) same thread! Here is a picture of the 90* I'm talking about:
unnamed.jpg
Why wouldn't that leak around the threads?
Rob, The fluid can't get past the crush washers on both sides. The hole would be just big enough for the fitting to go through. You would have to make sure it is flat and clean where the crush washers seat. I would probably use 2 nuts as jam nuts on each side as they are thin. Would work as locknuts also.
I don't know about that Jim. May work, but normally crush washers are sandwiched between a flanges that isolate the threads. Like on a brake caliper, the crush washers seal on the machined surface of the caliper & the banjo & then the other side of the banjo & the banjo bolt head -- so any fluid that gets past the threads is trapped btwn the threads & the inside edge of the washers. Seems like with nuts, a fluid can still seep past them -- between the threads & the edge of the crush washer. May not be a problem since the reservoirs aren't under pressure, but I'd want to test it out first.
I see what you are saying now but, pipe thread has a slight taper plus a little sealant for insurance. I'm after a more vintage look than the AN fittings. I'm thinking about 2 large cans for brakes and 1 small one for the clutch. Painted Hammerite dark gray with original style decals and blue hoses. Girling decals and lid diaphrams available from Moss. I am using 2 separate masters with balance bar similar to this, only remote reservoirs:
Master_Cylinders.jpg
Reservoirs_009.jpg
Why not assemble per Jims idea but leave out the washers, then just solder the whole thing together to seal it?
Or just solder on the lower nut to the fitting then the washer would seal.
Cheers
Fred
That's a great idea Fred. Would work for a plastic reservoir too if you needed to change the nipple size to fit a different MC which could come in handy!
Ok, I'm making progress... not good progress, but progress!
Got the Isuzu MC in the mail today -- and the reservoir is perfect! It has plenty of room & looks like it was made to go there. And, it fits on a Mitsubishi MC I have too.
Bad news is I didn't notice the output for the front on both of them is on the same side as the clutch MC & land right where the reservoir on the clutch MC is -- there's maybe a tight 1/2" between the brake MC front output & the clutch MC -- I don't even think there's enough room to do a banjo fitting there (even if I could find a metric banjo bolt this weekend).
I do have another clutch MC that looks like it will probably clear (a Tilton 75 series) -- but it's a 1" instead of 3/4. Clutch slave is a 3/4 unit from a Toyota truck. What are your thoughts about using the 3/4" clutch master with the 1" slave? I haven't driven it enough to know for sure, but the first impression was it was a bit hard -- especially toward the end of the travel. As long as it won't over extend the slave I should be able to use it & if it's too soft trade out the Tilton, right?
What-da-ya-think?
Just read up on clutch hydraulics -- bigger MC = more pedal effort, not less so that'd be going the wrong way. Looks like I need to find a MC that'll take the Isuzu reservoir but has the ports on the other side. I think I'm going to go ahead & set up a remote reservoir solution & find a MC that'll work later.
Rob, Some masters I looked at on RockAuto and EBay had the Metric banjo fittings, looked pretty compact. I think the Isuzu Impulse ( page 3 of this thread)had the fittings on the other side. Maybe World Parts will trade the Trooper for the Impulse.The Isuzu 15/16" was used on Diesel Troopers 85-86 according to RockAuto. Centric specs show fittings on wrong side also. Good news on the reservoir. Stock photo10mm banjo fittings pic:
CEk6irwmkKGrHqNlUE1F0mJsZzBNSVQeDsNQ0_1.jpg
Rob, I'm getting in a bit late on this topic, but have you looked at the Wilwood Remote combination master cylinder? Very small and has a very low top mount for the filler. Using a remote resevoir would clear your hood easily. I wound up using a larger model but used a resevoir from a Nissan if I remember correctly that I found in the salvage yard because it had a much lower profile tube mount. Worked for my clutch when the Wilwood resevoir wouldn't clear the fender. http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderList.aspx?minorname=Compact Remote Combination Master Cylinder
I used a 3/4" bore cylinder on my car, that usually matches up well with stock sized calipers, but you could move up to a 13/16" or a 7/8" if you need more volume.
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Thanks Bill -- I think I have this licked (thanks to all the help & encouragement!). No pics, but my older son & I bonded @ the local pick-a-part this past weekend. We found a few 15/16 masters with the right spacing on their inlets for the Isuzu master cylinder reservoir and with the output ports on the "right" side ("right as in correct for my purposes -- opposite side from the clutch master when installed in the MG pedal box). The one I have initially installed came from a '96 Mazda Protoge. So far looks like it'll work -- have it cleaned, bench bled, & installed -- just need to bleed the brakes & test it out. The gromets are, in reality, a little too small for the Isuzu MC to seat all the way down. It's seating far enough to make a good seal but there's still about 1/8" between the top of the grommet & the bottom of the reservoir -- works but not as tightly seated as it should be & I don't like it because I'm concerned it may vibrate & loosen over time. For now, I zip tied the reservoir down to the MC & that should be good enough to confirm the 15/16 size.
Assuming the size is good, I also grabbed a 15/16 MC from a '89 Camry. Also has the right inlet spacing & has the right size grommets. It also has a triangular shaped flange that I think will work a little better than the Protoge one. I should have installed it first, but I didn't notice the difference in grommet size till I'd already modified/installed the Protoge one.
In addition, Graham identified a 15/16 MC from a '80 Toyota Pickup, 1 Ton that looks promising too -- it has a round reservoir for the front inlet & that reservoir serves as a remote to the back port. Next time I'm at the pick-a-part I'm going to check that one out to see if it's short enough & if the reservoir is low enough. If so, that would make the best option since it wouldn't require mixing/matching parts from multiple MC's.
Wow, You've been busy!
Bled the brakes this evening -- very firm pedal... If I get home from work early enought tomorrow I'll be able to try it out.
Rob, think you'll like it! 15/16" should be just right. Just curious, do you have braided stainless flex lines? They will take up some pedal travel also.
Yes, braided flex lines.
Rob, Great progress! look forward to seeing the car and you in little over 2 months.
SAFETY FASTER!
Test drove the car again today -- brakes feel good with the 15/16" master. What I have installed is '96 Mazda Protoge with the Isuzu Trooper reservoir. As noted above, the Protoge gromets aren't really the right size but I also have a master from an '89 Toyota Camry which is also 15/16 & has the right inlet spacing & gromet size to accept the Isuzu reservoir so I'll likely switch to it. But first, I have a few things to sort out from the test drive...
Shifter lever was keeping me from getting 1st/3rd/5th fully engaged. So stayed in 2nd the whole time. Fixed that this evening.
Neither speedo or tach are working; will need to check that out.
Car overheated... I'm guessing this had something to do with it... No idea how I missed that?!?!?
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But, temp gauge worked (silver lining).
Should be able to fix the fan tonight or sometime this week so I can make sure that's all it was.
Rob, Congratulations on the brakes, I knew you'd get it figured out.
Pretty cool Rob. ( no pun intended)
Don't sweat the fan thing too much.
When I worked for Volkswagen back in the 80's we had a very quiet campaign to reverse the wiring for the rad fan on hundreds of 2nd gen Sciroccos.
So stuff happens.
Just why does it always happen to us?
Cheers
Fred
Rob, So you'd rather have it over heat in reverse ? Good work, cheers, roverman.