I have 3 intakes -- each different in height. Of course the one I want to use is the tallest; last choice is the shortest. I don't have an air cleaner yet but have measured from air filter flange on top of carb to the bottom of the hood. How much space do I need for the air cleaner assuming I can use or adjust the base to make it a drop base?
Is 2 1/2" ok? 3"? More?
Thanks,
Rob
Rob, For reference, underhood clearance on my conversion ( using Edelbrock Performer 2121 intake, 600cfm Edelbrock carb and 5/16" phenolic/gasket) using a lump of sealer/plasticene at the location listed below and closing hood.
Air cleaner mounting flange (at front of carb) to hood........2-1/8"
I use an older drop base 14" cleaner but it has an intermediate drop of 3/4" vs the typical 1-1/4" available today. Hood clearance at the front of the installed cleaner lid is about 3/16".
BTW - the Indy clock is ticking..........
After putting up with my non-LBC friends telling me it can't be done and then seeing the look on their faces when I showed them pictures to prove that we at the shop did it, I've encluded a couple of pictures and a relavent question. I'll be batteling the same issue shortly but think I'll go with the RV8 hood because of the distributor, still I feel the need to do something a little different with the aircleaner. My ex-son-in-law was tinkering with the idea of putting a 240SX motor in it and cut the heater shelf out but by the pictures you can see I clearly had a different direction in mind. As we are a fabrication shop I was thinking of fabing a top for the carb, using a K&N filter, and the heater blower motor intake hole for cold air intake. I know there would be issues with water and such but thought I'd put in my two cents worth and see what you guys think. "P"
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Graham, thanks for the info -- and you don't need to remind me about the clock -- it's stressing me enough already. I measured a little over 2 1/2" clearance from the air cleaner mounting flange to the hood using a performer RPM air gap type manifold so I guess that's the one I'll use.
Paul, check out Curtis' car in the gallery. He used the fresh air intake like you're thinking.
That is what I was thinking, Curtis just beat me to it. Curtis, do you ever drive it in the rain, and if so do you have any problems with it? "P"
No problems. Last June, for example, I got rained/poured/dumped on in every single state from Colorado to North Carolina (coming East for the BritishV8 meet) and the induction system didn't give any problem at all.
I have a screen at the top to keep out debris, and the rubber bulb at the bottom has been removed. The system does suck a little warm air out of the tranny tunnel, but it can evacuate a lot of water with no problem.
Possibly the biggest downsides of this approach for most people would be (a) giving up some cabin ventilation, and (b) you'll inevitably end up with more engine noise transferring into the cabin.
re: cold air induction / cowl induction efficacy, some test results are recorded here: http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/MGB-Cold-Air-Induction.htm
Rob, A 14" drop base Corvette type air cleaner with 2" K&N element should fit. Did you cut the reinforcement in the middle of the hood?
Paul, forget about the rain, it isn't a concern at all. I drove my blown roadster in all kinds of weather and there's a lot of air in between those rain drops! If that Enderlie scoop wasn't going to pick up too much water I can't think of anything that would.
JB
Jim, no, I didn't cut the center support bar. I'm pretty sure Graham's is still in tact so unless I have that wrong, his measurement of 2 1/8" carb flange to hod at the front should work for me too.
Actually my problem isn't the air cleaner as much as the distributor. I'll have to give it some thought. "P"
Quote.....I didn't cut the center support bar. I'm pretty sure Graham's is still in tact ....
My air cleaner lid falls aft of the hood "hat shaped" crossmember...so, all is still in place!
For Paul's reference, my std Ford distributor has about 7/8" clearance to the hood crossmember.
Graham, in the pictures you'll notice the distributor is removed. The picture was taken between it's removal and taping up the hole. It is a ProComp 7002 Electronic distributor and the hood hits it. By most pictures I see in the "How It Was Done" section the harmonic balancer is in the same position above the steering rack and the pan has the same clearance so I'm pretty sure the motor is in the right place. There are a number of things I don't like about the distributor including limited rotation for timing due to an electronic unit on the side, so there is thought of changing it. I like the RV8 hood but would use the stock one if possible. "P"
That's one of the problems with new electronic distributors - they tend to be taller and wider than an early 302 FoMoCo unit. The one pictured in my conversion is an original distributor from an early '70's full size Ford with aftermarket electronic points. Hood clearance is not an issue
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That looks great Graham, it will be my next plan, and I like the valve covers too.
Rob, we haven't forgot you buddy, hope this is helping you too. "P"
Graham, who did you get the distributor from and do you have the part numbers? "P"
Graham,
That is the nicest looking V8 engine installation I have ever seen !
Well none,
Phillip G
Paul, distributor was purchased at a parts swap meet and has ID # D2AF 12127. This is a Ford coded product identifying the year and application. You could google info on this code but this design distributor was used over many years in Mustangs, Galaxies, trucks, etc with the 302 engine.
Make sure that the drive gear is compatible with your cam - I am running a Ford Racing "B303" cam which requires a steel drive gear.
Phil G, thanks for the compliment.
I agree Graham, you did an impressive job!!! and thanks for the info. "P"
Rob,
As a suggestion you may want to try something a little different. I had clearance problems in my MGA. I fitted a carb bonnet (purchased off ebay) and ran tubing to the front grill. Then I fitted a filter for cold air induction.
Jeb
Just a thought...
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Thanks for the input... I think i'm going to go with a simple drop base air cleaner. Since I don't have it yet and about to install the choke cable for my carb, am I likely to run into clearance problems with the mechanical choke? Would an electric choke carb be a better choice? I can switch carbs; if I should I'd like to do that before I drill holes for the choke cable.
A typical drop base cleaner has a 1.2" drop from the mounting flange to the underside of the base. Either manual or electric choke will clear as the base has clearance depressions stamped into it.
I've had limited success with electric choke consistency and prefer the manual - if set up correctly, you'll get consistent starts and have control over choking operation during warmup.
re: I've had limited success with electric choke consistency
that's exectly why I got the manual choke one. I only drove a couple of electric choke cars & neither ever seemed to actually work right. my manual choke was always worked.
I found that the choke plate can hit the inside top of an air cleaner with a drop base. This may be why some electric chokes seem inconsistent. I removed the choke plate, but kept the electric fast idle function. This accomplishes about 90% of what the choike accomplishes. It also allows the choke horn to be removed to get beter aiir flow under the low air cleaner top.
We will have an R-V8 bolt on hood at the British V8 show in Indy, you can measure to see if it clears.
Dave Craddock
Hey Rob, That performer Rpm Airgap is a great manifold. You can easily mill the carb mount flange down another half inch.
You may even want to angle mill it to tip the front of the air cleaner down some. The Edelbrock/Carter AFB carb is shorter than the Holley and the good old thermoquad is shorter still. Use a 14" x 3" air filter housing with a good 14" x 2" element and gain another inch of room. The early points distributors are the shortest. You can buy another 1/2 inch on the electronic ones by cutting the wire towers down to the metal inserts, or convert them to the point style cap and rotor with some minor lathe work. Lastly remote air filters work great and some really nice low profile carb hats are available from the turbo guys.
Cheers
Fred
I ended up using the air gap manifold, a 14" 1.5" drop base on the bottom & a finned top (added about 1/4" of height but looks good), 2" filter, edelbrock carb & a 1/2" spacer btwn carb & drop base. That combination clears my stock hood by 3/8" at the front. Could of course use a 1" drop base & eliminate the spacer, but I'd already bought the 1.5" drop & spacer was less expensive than return shipping & restocking fee.