Well I wasn't going to do it but I am pulling so much air through the engine now that I chucked the old 2-1 exhaust I want to put a snazzy edelbrock air filter I found on my car but I will have to cut a hole in the hood. seen some really great scoops on this forum but where did you get them?...I am especially interested in the rear facing ones cause 1-the low pressure area pulls more air in and 2-it will be better for keeping the rain out and 3-they look cool... I am especially interested in the bolt on ones since I really don't want to do a hell of alot of bodywork if I can help it, Thnx. for all replies.
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I got mine from a truck performance shop. IIRC, it's made by "Lund" but can confirm that. It's ABS plastic, inlets cut out with a Dremel tool and blended into the hood. Works very well.
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MG-MGB_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4cecc1cf1bQQitemZ330389638939QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MG-MGB_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4cecc1cf1bQQitemZ330389638939QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks
made mine - sculpting clay on the hood for the shape - took a mold, ditched the clay and pulled a fiberglass part.
Tom,
I been toying with just that for years. I want one similar to the RV8 that can cover a 14" air cleaner.
Before I go off Googling, do you happen to have any good web links that detail how to go about making a fiberglass mold?
I've just ordered mine here
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190315456897&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Yeah, that'd be real subtle on an MG. ;)
I did what Tom Lay did. It is a lot of work but I got just what i wanted.
Weird - Just yesterday afternoon I went out to the garage to to put some stuff in the extra refrigerator (more beer) - noticed some dust on the hood of the "red hot chili pepper" - I'm hanging onto the open refrigerator in a trance staring across the fender at the hood - I finally close the door and still in a trance (frankensteinish) make my way over to the front of the car - rather than cleaning the dust off, it was the perfect canvas for me to use my index finger and draw a very irregular austin-healey type hood scoop with the option of louvers adjacent to it - in my mind, it was a work of art - so, the moral of this little ramble is - you can always start with dust, and work up to clay!
Sorry, under the influence of cold and to much snow.
Quotethe perfect canvas for me to use my index finger and draw a very irregular austin-healey type hood scoop
Hmmm...
I suppose you've seen this "How It Was Done": http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BobHertz.htm
(http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BobHertz/BobHertz-FB.jpg)
(http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BobHertz/BobHertz-FC.jpg)
(http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BobHertz/BobHertz-FD.jpg)
I am pretty partial to this one, local guy sellin it with a 350 chev in it....the scoop is from race composites, a camaro scoop but smaller....looks pretty cool....I keep hedging between going for look or function, I drive it anytime & can just see the hassle with rain I will get using a scoop, some of you guys got great looking scoops and probably need em with the induction height but I can just close my hood on a low profile 14" cleaner.....ahh.. to relieve the adolescent dreams, I have already made concession to a dual exhaust with cherry bombs now I have to crank my stereo louder but I sure get double takes when I roar past folks.
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RV8 Hood(bonnet?) from Adrian in OZ. One of the V6 guys just did a new web site and he has RV8 copies at a very reasonable price. BMC maybe?
This is not a scoop, just a bulge, but it is very tastefull, subtle, like my yellow GT, and may give you the room you need.
Hrh Jim...checked out your car on the pics forum...very nice...I do like the bump definetly more subtle and rain proof....I sent in my pics for the forum but the moderator hasn't put em up??? ...Mr. Moderator?
1) Curtis - looked okay on the hood but......seeing on the car......imho it would have been more subtle to follow the lines of the hood and taper it in (per A-H) without cowl - although that most likely wouldn't have gotten him the clearance he needed for intake/cleaner.
2) Yikes (louvers on black car)!
3) Can't go wrong with the RV8.
Thanks Jim, Yes we have the RV8 bonnet plus a little more. It may be hard to tell but these have slightly more room than the standard RV8 but it has been done in good taste and unless you had the original next to an improved copy, I believe you would be hard pressed to see the difference.
Here is the direct link:
http://bmcautos.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13&products_id=123&zenid=1ede9279bf46954d5013e9475136a52b
My pictures need work and I have had no time but here is an attempt within the last few days to update. We have a nice primer grey BGTV6 that is going through a partial restoration and modification that needed some pictures.
-BMC.
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that definetly is tasteful...will check out site
Hi Brian,
"Yes we have the RV8 bonnet plus a little more. It may be hard to tell but these have slightly more room than the standard RV8"
Does that mean my 14" air cleaner will fit under it? That's what I have been wishing for a long time, an RV8 hood bulge that will provide clearance for an Edelbrock intake/carb/14" air cleaner.
Carl, how much taller is the Edelbrock vs. the stock Buick 4bbl? I got the stocker under the stock hood with a good bit to spare on my old gray 1977. I used an extreme low rider by Federal Mogal that D & D used to sell. The last ones I saw from them did not drop as much as the old one.
Jim,
I don't have one yet to measure, but I have had 3/4" taller in my head for a long time. I would also prefer to use a 3" tall air filter. There's not much room above the carb inside the air cleaner.
I am going to try this one for now.....compact, bolt-on, gasket, grill, cheap, paintable and will fit the edelbrock pro-flo...whole set-up incl. the paint match I will do will not run more than $125
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That looks pretty good, John. Keep us posted on your progress.
QuoteDoes that mean my 14" air cleaner will fit under it? That's what I have been wishing for a long time, an RV8 hood bulge that will provide clearance for an Edelbrock intake/carb/14" air cleaner.
Hi Carl,
I just took pictures and measurements tonight. The bulge ends at 31" to the "normal" MGB shape and has maximum height starts to go back to the normal at aprox. 27.5". There is over an inch of room additional in there with this unit.
If anyone is interested in more pictures of the inner portion of the RV8 bonnet, email me for pictures. (no private messages)
I'll send the pictures of the inside along with a picture of a '74 B with the radiator relocated in the stock location for the 77-80 for reference. It makes sense when you can blow the pictures up and determine numbers against what you need.
-BMC.
Food for thought . . .
My scoop mods have progressed through the years. Initially started out with the hood bump from a Mitsubishi Eclipse (all metal, welded to the hood) to mimic the RV8, but positioned forward for distributor clearance. Then, years later, went to a Harcourt intake and larger air cleaner, so cut a hole (dumb) and found a generic fiberglass scoop from J.C. Whitney. Trimmed it up and bonded it to the hood (after many unsuccessful attempts). I've never really been satisfied with the bonding because of cracking; and I'm not convinced air flow is improved, so it's more cosmetic I think. Still, I do like the way it looks; if you stand back 20 feet and squint.
After all of the changes, I've gone to an Eddlebrock intake, which sits lower and probably could have gotten away with a stock look. Should have fiddle more with the motor mounts. Would have been a whole lot easier. Live and learn!
I think the way to go would be the full fiberglass RV8 bonnet, if you don't have clearance issues.
Latest mod has been the installation of 4" fog lamps from a Mini that fit nicely within early 70's grille. Welded a stack of washers as firm pedestals for the lamps.
Good luck!
Johnny
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Hi Johnny!
Would you mind if I posted your pictures on another MG website??
Regards
Perry
Sure, Perry, no problem.
Thanks!
Its got some good reviews!
Mine is coming along nicely now. Not to everyones taste. But its what I want for the car on the strip :)
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb270/mgbv8_photo/bonnetscoop1stcoatofprimer009.jpg)
Hey Johnny, I live in Alexandria not too far from you; what engine do you have? I'd like to hook up with you some days. There's a British car auto-cross club in Springfield, Ed Chin runs it, you should meet the guys.
Jacques
Carl-
I did not have room for a 3" filter. I used a 2" K & N which the local speed shop ordered for me. No one had one in stock. The K & N flowed plenty of air for a reasonably modified street motor.
Carl, a K & N Filtertop would more than make up for a shorter filter.
Hi Jim,
Originally, I planned to use one of those K&N XStrean tops. I returnted it to Summit after reading the installation instructions. They wanted more gap from the filter top to the choke air horn & from the filter top to the bottom of the bonnet than I had to work with. Might have still helped, though.
Mine now has paint and will be on the car tomorrow :)
http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/bb270/mgbv8_photo/?action=view¤t=Prostreetscooppainted008.jpg&newest=1
Perry, That'll look right going down the strip. Nice look, I think.
Ok, I know that air cleaner height, can be a problem. I don't think I've seen anyone use the grille at base of windshield,(high pressure), for engine air? Grille could also rotate upward for a bigger gulp ? Obviously, heater and cabin air would be moved. roverman.
QuoteI don't think I've seen anyone use the grille at base of windshield,(high pressure), for engine air?
Curtis has done this with his GT ....albeit with the heater delete option.
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Thats a neat solution Curtis :)
Mine is now fitted.
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb270/mgbv8_photo/Daikinsponsorpicsandvid001.jpg)
Looks great Perry!!
I have a few Cobra-Jet scoops if anyone is interested, will let them go for a song and a Beer :-)
I'm faced with the hood scoop or bubble issue too. Is it a rule of thumb that if you use Ted or Pete's front crossmember you can avoid it and if you use a modified MG member a scoop is in your future? I've reviewed as many pictures as I can and my engine is, I think, in the right place but I even have a distributor issue. I kind of like the bubble idea best but don't want it to look like a ProStock car, however, we do what we have to do.
"P"
Have you considered purchasing a reproduction RV-8 hood? It has a nice progressive bulge and may give you the extra clearance that you need. I have Ted's front end and I had to use this hood to clear my distributor and GT-40 intake.
Before I found this hood, I would cruise big parking lots and look for cars with bulge type hood; you'd be surprised at how many could be grafted on the MG hood. One that comes to mind was some Mitsubishi turbo. I concur with your feelings about huge scoops; IMHO it brings too much attention for the street and distracts your eyes from the MG's outline features.
I attend some of the vantage British car shows in my area (D.C.) and it really pleases me when I observe a purist paying attention to a conversion and I would consider an RV-8 hood being a true piece of history.
The fiberglass RV8 hood from BMC is by far my favorite and the price is pretty good, but is the bulge far enough forward for the distributor?
"P".
Paul, here's two photos that hopefully will give you an idea of what the hood is capable of covering. I did have to cut the center brace which I will reinstall with a curve in it to follow the bulge. You can lower your engine to the same height as Ted's front end, give him a call, maybe he'll make you a pair of mounts that you could weld on the frame; it's worth a shot.
sendhoodscoop.jpg
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Thanks Jacques, your pictures helped a lot. What radiator did you use? As I mentioned on a different post, I was thinking of re-bracketing my steering rack to lower the front of the engine a little for a number of reasons but I'm unsure what effect it will have on handeling. I really like the hood and wouldn't mind using it even if I didn't have clearance issues.
"P"
I bought the radiator from Dave Michel; he purchased it from some street rod shop but could not use it. The shroud is custom made by Mahaffey Motorsports ( http://www.mahaffeymotorsports.com/FanShrouds.htm ) He advertises on Racing Junk. com; The shroud has an internal electric fan is extremely efficient. When I picked it up, he held a credit card in any four front corners and it would not fall off.
As far as relocating your steering rack it can be done however you'll have to recheck the steering geometry to avoid bump-steer, there's a couple of decent steering/suspension book out there to guide you through, check with Borders book store. Although, I do think that there's other ways to sink down your engine. What oil pan are you using? That plays a key role in locating your engine. Don't worry about sectioning the cross-member, my brother who lives in Canada owns a collision and frame shop and he thinks that the MG's cross-member is made very strong and a touch overbuilt but it doesn't mean that you can cut it in half. The advice and photo given to you by Graham is great. Avoid sharp cuts, arch your cuts.
I have a couple of Mustang 5.0 Liter oil pans, I'd be glad to give you one although I don't have the pick up tubes anymore.
The motor is a 78 Mustang 5.0 with double sump but the front sump is not too deep and will work OK I think. Thanks for the pan offer Jacques, I'll keep it in mind if I have any more problems. I cut the crossmember per the pictures and my balancer is almost touching the steering rack but if need be I can shim the front mounts to increase the clearance. My Harley friends tend to get in the way of progress a lot but tommorow is forcast to be cold and raining here so I'm spending the day at the shop fabing up the transmission mount and crossmember; might even stay after and start rebuilding the firewall.
I like the rv8 hood. Looks like it is bonded to the original steel frame and I assume you will use the original latch system? I have the other hood with all fiberglass top and frame, what is a good way other than pins to latch the hood?
I was concerned about that too because I want to stay away from hood pins if possible; in fact I would rather modify my hood.
"P"
I've seen the RV8 bonnet available from BMC (and now Mantell Motorsport as well).
It is a well designed, well finished, well reinforced piece of art.
Yes, I believe that the "power bulge" extends far enough forward to allow clearance for of the distributor, etc.
You can also use factory latch mechanisms.
Additionally, my bonnet strut kits will work with this product.
Contact Brian or Pete for availablility and pricing.
Thanks Rick! I certainly intend to use the hood struts. About 20 years ago I took the rear hatch struts from a Volvo station wagon I found in a junk yard and put them on my GT hatch. I don't remember what year it was but it was one of the best things I've ever done for the little "B" right after doing shock mods on all four corners.
"P"
Since I was going more for the 60's hot rod look, I went with the GT350 unit from Speedway. I know that some will think it a bit much, but since my hood was far from perfect... and the scoop was relatively cheap...
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Ken,
Which scoop did you get from speedway? I see they have two sizes in that style. Is yours the "mini"? Car looks great!!
Thanks
Jimmy Geske
Has anyone ever opened up the back of the RV8 bulg to make it cowl induction?
I don't have the RV8 Hood since BMC is already selling the complete hoods. But, I do have the RV8 bulge mold.
I have been working diligently on my car and I am almost ready to put the 5.0 Ford in her. Since I was doing a fairly aggressive looking car with the look of a 60s Muscle car and I didnt want it to get too Cobraesque; I went with this.
The hood is a stock glass hood from Dave Craddock. Then I got a Triumph GT6 "stinger from Moorspeed and grafted it on from the bottom by cutting a humongous hole in my gorgeous new hood. The Stinger opens in the back to evacuate hot air. On top of that, i added a 427 Vette scoop to give it that 60s agressive look. The air cleaner will be sealed to the hood to allow the 427 scoop to feed the motor cold air. At least that's the plan so far. The 427 scoop is just held on with 4 screws right now. Once i get the motor in and the "ram air" done, I will rivet, and adhesive it on.
(http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k618/Brownwood1/20140509_200032.jpg) (http://s1118.photobucket.com/user/Brownwood1/media/20140509_200032.jpg.html)
(http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k618/Brownwood1/20140509_200047.jpg) (http://s1118.photobucket.com/user/Brownwood1/media/20140509_200047.jpg.html)
After getting the stinger on and nearly complete I thought about just leaving the 427 scoop off, but the neighbor ladies kept calling the car cute, so now I'm not sure which way I will go. here's a pic without the 427 scoop.
(http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k618/Brownwood1/image3.jpg) (http://s1118.photobucket.com/user/Brownwood1/media/image3.jpg.html)
Huffaker flares are in the garage but I will probably get the V8 swap done B4 tackling that project.
Keith in my humble opinion you should just go with the stinger as the whole thing looks a lot cleaner and it will not stick out so much. The best custom cars and hotrods have subtle changes. This is the philosophy of Chip Foose and we all know how his cars have gotten the awards.
Cheers
Byron
Keith, I think it looks better without the Vette scoop also. You could blend in the edge a little more to make it even more subtle.
Yep, Like I said, I go back and forth. At this point its only 4 1/8 inch holes to fill if I go without the scoop.
Although subtle was never a part of my plan.... :)
Keith - tell me about those wheels.
In the end I went with the RV8 hood; just installed it and Rick's hood struts last week, I think its the most subtle way around the carb/distributor clearance issue. Keith, cars looking great; I think I like it best without the vette scoop too. Just remember when you start doing the motor that putting the fire wall back in is a pain in the rear, don't cut out any more than you have to.
Paul
Yep, I did some trial bellhousing fitting today. I'm hoping that since I have the later model B that I wont have to cut anything. After fitting the bellhousing, banging some metal at the firewall and grinding some of the bellhousing stiffening ribs down just abit, I have 28 inches from the bellhousing to my fast cars radiator. Looks like it might work with no cutting .
OK, after a fair amount of soul searching and getting input from a lot of different folks, along with the stark realization that I am no longer in my 20s; I have decided to not use the 427 Vette scoop. The GT6 hood has really grown on me and will serve to evacuate hot Texas air from under the hood. Adding the Huffaker flares will pump up the attitude of the car. Plus, I am heavily engaged in doing the actual engine swap....
Thanks for all the feedback.
Keith - where in TX are you?
Also, note the best place to open holes to evacuate heat is the inner fenders.
The cowl area is a high pressure area at speed so not so while it'll help at a stop, it's not so good for gettin air out at speed.
I live in Cypress and with my Volvo fan have no over heating even @ 103 in stop and go for over an hour with the AC on.
Rob, good point, That area tends to force air in not out. Since I'm using Fast Cars fenderwell headers I will have BIG holes in my inner fenders so that should help a lot.
I'm up in the north DFW area on Lake Lewisville. Next time Im in your hood Im coming to see your car in person!
I found a used AC Cobra kit car scoop on ebay. I welded in a section from a rusty hood to fill the gap from the cowl induction scoop, cut another hole to match the Cobra scoop and bonded and glassed the new scoop in.
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