BritishV8 Forum

Hi everyone,

I've tried looking through the posts and doing searches here on how to place the Rover V8 lower and further back in the TR7.  Doesn't seem that anyone has done this, though.

Has anyone here done it in a TR7/8? (Relocate the engine, that is.)

I figure since my planned project is to swap in an Rv8, then I should consider the challenges, cost and benefits of relocation.  If the bay is going to be open and I'm going to have to replace the crossmember and mounts anyway, this should be a relatively straight forward project, right(?)

It will be fitted with a dry sump so that should offer some clearance.

I know I'll have to shorten the driveshaft, lower trans, relocate the trans mount, and refit the clutch hydrlc line.

The diff (IRS to be decided?) angle will also have to be calculated.

Can anyone shed some light or am I way off base here?

Thanks in advance,

Trip

Race car?  Big budget? Checked the class rules? Multi-stage dry-sump on street? I have cast alum. pan/girdles. Absolutely nothing to be gained by having engine/trans lower than bottom of car. Since motor is so light, not as much to be gained as say an iron motor in relocation. Since you want irs., consider transaxle for weight relocation. Perhaps something easy to get like, "Boxter". A good way to improve handling is having the car as low as possible,(adjustable ride height)? How fa$$t do you want to go?  Burn rubber-not wallet. roverman.

Roverman,

I like that... "Burn rubber-not wallet."

"consider transaxle for weight relocation. Perhaps something easy to get like, "Boxter"."  Intriguing comment.  Could you please elaborate?  Has it been done before?

Could you also elaborate re: cast alum. pan/girdles?

It will be taken out on track days and will be street driven so has to meet DOT.  So I would like to build it to be track capable right from the beginning.

Thank you for your comments

Trip

Trip, First-off, let's back -track a little. How much "real" HP/Tork? at what rpm? Turbo?-lil' easier on drive train. Usually non mammoth tork at launch w/o. nitrous.  Weight of vehicle, 1 st. gear overall ratio? What are you trying to prove/accomplish? You need to skillfully fill-in these and other blanks to achieve,"Autotopia". I mentioned Porsche Boxter only because, there plentifull, made for mid or with drive shaft, front motors. If you make a 1000 "reliable" horsees, verified, we will all concede our "unworthyness". The C5/C6 Vette, BorgWarner, 6 spd, t-axel is "quite" sturdy, Lindenfelter purportedly nearly loaded 1200 hp. through one until engine blew. I'm thinkin with your puny 1000 hp. in a TR7, should hold it. Don't expect my puny girdle pan to.  Speed co$t $$. How Fa$$t? n  roverman.

Also Trip, I might suggest that since the Rover motor fits, the 340 also should fit without any real difficulty. Use the new TA heads that will come out about the first of the year and you have a pretty good route to power. I'm not sure what the TR7 motor weighs but the 340 with alloy heads is only 82 lbs heavier than the 215 (I understand the later Rovers are also a few pounds heavier) and that's a pretty good trade off for the extra cubic inches and an iron block. Ask around, you'll find that an extra hundred pounds on the front of the car does not make a significant difference in handling on the MGB and it probably is about the same on the TR7. Just another thing to consider. Of course, if you really do want that 1000hp one good way to get it is with a TA aluminum V6, since they are now trying to break 2000 with that engine. It's based on the Buick V6. Punch in taperformance.com download their catalog and browse. Lots of stuff for Buicks, even an aluminum big block. That would get you over 1000 real easy. Since we put one in an MGB (iron block, alloy heads) it might even fit.

Jim

Uhhhm, I'm confused guys, have I missed something?  1000hp, you say?  Noooooo.  I'm only hoping for 300hp and I'm thinking that's opimistic.  I'll be happy with 250-285ish.

Okay, I'll clarify.

roverman, no turbo, SC, Nitros etc.  only normally asp. MPEFI.

I believe the C6 trans has a T56.  I made another post regarding opinions about the T56 VS Toyota V161.

Jim, the older Rover V8 motor is 318lbs and newer 325lbs.

TA heads? Okay, I'll check out their cat.

I was leaning towards the Merlin F85s.

I hope I haven't confused the conversation.

Trip.

Trip,

Firstly save yourself a lot of grief and keep the engine in the stock TR8 location and then other parts like headers will fit, if you are only looking for 200-250 BHP then a Rover 3.9 will do the job with a decent pair of heads a compatable cam, and decent induction system, hotwire EFI with a megasquirt would work well.

I believe that there new subframes available for the V8 conversion and obviously you will want to rebuild and upgrade the front and rear suspension and brakes for track use.

As for the rear end I would keep it simple and just do the tried and tested mods to the rear suspension, Group 44 and Huffaker made their cars work pretty well.

The Wedge Shop should be a good source of parts and information. and Lanocha Racing do some nice stuff for the TR7/8 including the Group 44 body kit.

Kevin.

I think Kevin hit a really good point: headers. If you're willing to commit to all the effort of building home-made headers, that opens up lots of options. If you want to bolt on someone else's header design, they'll severely limit where the engine will fit.

In my MGB, the Buick 215 is about four inches rearward of "normal". I made my own headers twenty years ago, and now I'm about ready for a new set. I'd consider buying "MG RV8" headers, except with my engine so far back off-the-shelf RV8 headers would interfere with my tires and limit my turning radius. The second set will have to be home-made too!

If you think you might ever race your TR7 (as a "TR8") , engine location might be a problem with class rules. When I built my car, there was no class for MGB GT V8 race cars to race in North America, but now you can build and race an MGB GT V8-conversion in SVRA, HSR, or SCCA. Three different sets of rules. My car could probably be SVRA-legal in two weekends (although it wouldn't be remotely competitive!) if not for one big problem: the SVRA rules require that the engine be at least six inches forward of the MGB firewall. If I wanted to race my car in SVRA, I'd need to move the engine forward about three inches.

I moved the engine back in my Vega GT project by 2" and down about 1 1/2". I got more clearance for induction and better, although minimal, weight distribution. I found it to be pretty easy not including all the time I sat and considered it. Actually doing it only took a couple hours. Mitigating factors? I was fabricating my own crossmember already, changing the steering mechanism to a rack and relocating everything.

All that said, Kevin's point about being able to use off the shelf headers is pretty nice. I had to fabricate my headers no matter what I was doing so no extra time was needed there.

Woody at the Wedge Shop is a great resource for cams. He's done a lot of cam testing on their set of TR's. Worth a look anyway:

http://www.thewedgeshop.com/

I worked with him on finding the right cam for my stroker engine. Very knowledgeable. The likelihood is high that he's built something like what your looking for.

Kevin regarding headers, yes that's a brilliant point.  I see how it could be a huge hassle relocating the engine with little or no benefit.  Thru my research, I realized that I would also have to relocate the trans mount, shorten the drive shaft and re-calculate the angle of the diff.  

Can you please elaborate on the Hotwire EFI?  I am familiar with Megasquirt.

Do you have any info on the new V8 subframes?

Those Lanocha body kits are nice but soooo pricey! I believe approx. $6000.

Thanks,

Trip

Curtis, I had seen an engine related racing rule that stated the forward most spark plug could not be rear of the front wheel hub center.

I'm honestly not sure which class that was in relation.  Thanks for the insight, I'll look into regs for different classes.  I plan to get the car out on track days as I don't think I'm good enough to race at any higher level.

BTW.  That's a purrrty car you have!

Thanks for the tips.

Trip

Nicolas, interesting point about minimal weight distribution benefits.  I wonder if that would be similar result in the TR7?

Thanks for the Wedge shop lead on cams.  That's going on my list of things to research.

Trip

Trip,

Hotwire EFI, standard factory EFI on 3.9, 4.2 and some 3.5 engines. can be used with a Megasquirt or similar ECU for modified engines with the airflow meter removed and using MAP (manifold absolute pressure) or throttle positions sensor.

Also by keeping the engine in the stock position the gearbox should fit without mods to the tunnel and you can probably get a modded TR7 crossmember. a standard TR8 propshaft and your coolant system will be simpler to sort ot with standard hoses etc.

It's all those little mods that run into money, remember the rule of thumb alter one thing and you have to change at least three others!

The lanocha body kit is just under $3000.00 now if I had a TR7/8 instead of a BV8 !

http://www.lanocharacing.com/Products.htm

Kevin

I'm currently in the process of figuring out this information for myself.

Moving the V8 down partly depends on whether you are running power steering or not.  With a TR7 steering box, you can drop the engine about an inch without interference. With the std TR8 power steering, you can't really drop it without some surgery to the engine and/or sump.

How far back to move the engine is mostly a function of whether or not you want the fresh air plenum and if you are willing to modify the fire wall.  Custom headers are a given.  

I have created an Autocad drawing of the subframe, with a basic engine outline (pdf attached).  I am currently (in my "sparse" spare time) measuring the firewall shape and location and will update the drawing eventually.

Hope this info helps.

Martin
TR8_subframe.jpg

Hello Kevin,

Thanks for the Hotwire explanation.  It makes total sense now.

I see your point regarding leaving engine where it is.

And, that's a good rule of thumb to keep in mind.

As far as the Lanocha kit goes.... I hadn't realized that they changed the price.  BV8's are real nice too!

Trip

Martin, that CAD drawing is really sweet!  You must be a 2D/3D wiz,  cool!

I get your point about the power steering getting in the way and making things complicated.  I definitely want to add PS. to the project so "surgery" on the motor etc. seems beyond my skills.

You mentioned dropping the engine about an inch if no PS.  It really is a lot of work for little gain.

With all the honest, staright feedback in the above posts.  My plan to relocate the motor has been 180'd.  I realize that the time, effort and $$$ can be better invested in other more productive ways.


Martin, if you end up relocating your motor, let me know.  Would be neat to see the final drawing too.

Trip

Thank you very much to all of you for taking the time to give me the straight goods on this engine relocating idea of mine.  I very much appreciate the reality check.  

Trip

Trip,

This link may be useful as it shows a comprehensive kit for the V8 conversion, I do not normally recommend rimmers because their parts are normall expensive but this does not look bad for a bolt in conversion.

Another company for parts  was S & S conversions not sure if their still around..

 http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RB7705

Another useful link.

http://www.wedgeparts.com/v8engine.html

Kevin.

It looks like the TR's put the engine in about the location I was able to get my engine for the Vega. Before I changed it the engine was just about centered over the front tires. Now it's just aft of the centerline by a couple inches. I'm of the mind that any little bit counts. That goes for weight reduction as well. A half pound here or there doesn't seem like a lot but do that a dozen times and you got 6 lbs., right?

The pinion angle is a good point. I know on my Vega the pinion angle was not good when I started my project because Buick liked to angle their engines back by like 5º. That coupled with the stock Chevy rear pinion angle and I was in for like 8º! I removed as much angle on the engine as I could get away with. That was part of the relocation as well. I'm betting that has been thought through a bit better on a car that was developed with the Rover V8 in mind. I don't know for certain though. It will be interesting to hear what these guys say about it.

Thanks Kevin,

I'm going to check the links out now.

Trip

Nicolas. Yes, you're right about that, every little bit of weight saving helps.  And, for better weight distribution it's the same.

The only thing seems to be how much time, work, money is it going to take and does the end justify the means?

Trip

Hey Trip,

Re the CAD drawing ... not a wiz, just persistent.  I will be fabbing up (converting) my TR7 subframe for the RV8.  I already have an engine, bell housing, & mounts (engine and tranny).  I've also put on a Buick V6 timing cover and made my own shortened water pump pulley (actually an adaptor).

In the drawing, the upper right section (a-a) shows the engine already lowered about 21mm (from 38 to 17mm).  According to my measurements, everything will clear the subframe for my RV8-3.9L.  As well, I plan to set the engine mounts about 1 to 2in back, as soon as I can determine the clearances.

I have to make up the subframe mounts and a driveshaft anyhow, so I don't foresee any major challenges.

Martin

Hi Martin,

You've already got an engine etc... you're way ahead of me.

Have you taken into consideration the steering and header clearance?

Also, the exhaust and drive shaft will have to be shortened and the tranny mount adjusted.

What about the sump?

I hope you adds posts and pics of your build.  I can't wait to see your progress!!!  It will be cool!!!

Trip

For exhaust, I have a used set of Ted's (TSI) headers that I will modify as needed.

For the driveshaft, I have a slip joint shaft from an early Range Rover that should work just fine, as long as I redrill the ends of the u-joint flanges to suit the TR7 bits.  If I have to shorten it, I have a friend that has lots of experience doing it.

I also have a sump and harmonic balancer off of a SD1 wreck I found.

My RV8-3.9L engine is completely rebuilt, +030 - 9.35:1 pistons, Rover 4L heads (which will up the compression to 10 point something...), a medium hot Erson cam from Woody's, high capacity oil pump, Edelbrock 4bbl carb and intake.  I'm almost finished a mild porting job (soul sapping work, best left for a cold winter night), and then I can button her up.

With the summer, I've been distracted with other toys, dog and wife (not necessarily in that order).  With fall around the corner and cooler weather, I can re-start finishing the porting job.  Once that's done and the engine is closed, I'll drop the TR7 engine, tranny and sub-frame from the car and being the conversion.  The interior is already done and the body is relatively sound.

After that, I'm also planning on upgrading the front brakes with Toyota Cressida 10.7" disks and 4Runner calipers, but that's another AutoCAD drawing and story.....

Another year or so and she'll be ready for paint......  :)

M.
100_2431sm.jpg
100_2432sm.jpg

Martin, one of the other things I was concerned about is the fact that when the engine is dropped lets say 1", then the angle of the driveline to diff. changes accordingly and has to be changed to re-line everyhing.

BTW... reeeeally nice work on the porting.  Looks like apro CNC job!!

Hope you were able to find all the metal bits... Talk about soul sapping work.  LOL.  

You said - Toyota Cressida 10.7" disks and 4Runner calipers.  Really? I hadn't realized that you could adapt those easily.  nice.
Prolly pretty easy to get and at fair prices too.

Keep us updated

Trip

I am bringing the engine back 1-inch and until I get a dry sump arrangement plan on keeping it at the stock height. The bell housing bolts for the transmission will get real tight to fit but should be ok. The headers might come closer to the steering shaft but this will be verified when I mock everything up.
HPIM0625.jpg

Mike, that's exactly what I would like to do as well!

Please keep me updated as you go through the process.  I'd love to here more about your project.

Trip

BTW.  Did you custom make those mounts?

Trip-The brackets were from and made by TSI and are OK for fit but needed some holes opened up and will need some spacer for each of the upper bolts. I welded on some extensions for the rubber engine mount and also extended the gusset too. It was not that hard at all. The original Rally TR7V8s moved the engine back 2-inches and really hammered the transmission tunnel to death but they aslo made it so just the gearbox without the bell housing could be changed out so they did not need access to the bellhousing to engine bolts. As a result of oving the engine back you will need to shorten the drive shaft, move the bolt holes in the floor for the transmission cross member, either get a shortened shifter assembly or notch the hole in the tunnel, and the headers can add to the mix too! I like the idea of a chevy LS1 type engine in a TR7. Are you still thinking chevy or rover?

Hey Trip,

Where are you located?

Dan B

Hello Mike,

It seems that most tr7/8 owners are not attempting this relocation and I got the impression the minor gains weren't worth the effort.

The fact that you're doing it and that you say it's not that hard is making me reconsider.  Here's the thing, yes, I am still thinking about a Ford 4.6 or LS1.  I'm now also considering a Ford 302.  Good strong, reliable and tonnes of performance parts.  Easy to make crazy HP!  The Rover motor is an awesome, light and very capable motor... I have concerns about the porosity issues in some of the motors.  Tho I know that they can refit those blocks with "top hat" liners which are flanged at the top and seals to also help prevent the other Rover issue - dropped liners.  I am amazed at the availability and variety of quality performance parts.. You can even use some of the Buick/GM/Chev components.

One bit of advice I would give if you go the Rover direction... From what I've seen the "Coscast"(originally designed by a CO called Cosworth and now by Mahle) blocks that are being used to eliminate the porosity issue, are actually now coming back with the same problem.  So I can't justify the high cost of these blocks.  If you decide Rover, look for a newer engine rather than an old unit, and have it inspected before you drop it in the car IMHO.

The issue with the Ford and LS1 is the weight(especially the LS1), height and length... Relocating the block back and lower, in this case becomes even more appealing with these heavier motors.  Don't like the idea of the engine ahead of the front wheels and sitting on the front bumper!!!

How to access the clutch easily, when needed if the bell housing is near the firewall?

Sounds like a shortened shifter housing would need considerable fabricating.  I wonder if any company supplies them for various Trans?

Trip

Hey Dan B... I'm just a little bit north of South Charleston, WV.... Just a short little drive.

Canada.

Trip

Trip-Believe it or not but I own (2) 1980 TR8 coupes that are genuine "retail" cars. They both have started off somewhat stock. They are also about 38 cars apart from each other in the production run. I have owned my white coupe since 1998 and it is being turned into a road going rally car. The other is a pageant blue coupe that I picked up about 3 months ago and is my 30th wedge and 5th TR8 all starting in 1986! The car is a rare color that is going to be kept stock as much as my patience will allow. The rally car has the original motor that needed a rebuild but is being replaced with a TR8 Rover V8 built to the max for a 3.5 liter; .060 over bore, 12.5 compression, 520 lift cam, over sized valves and ported heads, roller rockers, tubular push rods, offset grind crank, chevy 327 H-Beam connecting rods, double roller timing chain, and fully blue printed and balanced. The engine has about 2,000 miles on it and last dyno was 320 hp with 340ftlbs of torque. I seem to be the only one moving the rover rearward in a TR8. Group 44 TR8s, Rally TR8s and other factory racers moved the engines 2-inchs back and made a huge handling difference. I think for a TR8 with all the parts that work why bother is the attitude by owners.

HPIM0503a.jpg

Lanocha3.5_5a.jpg

The rover block you are talking about with the porous issues are the 4.2 and 4.0 liters that had the liners separate from the casting dumping coolant out the exhaust ports when they would heat up to operating temperature. I had seen this happen about 5 or 6 times. I stay away from those blocks. The later blocks after the late 90ies were fine unless you do some radical honing or boring of the blocks that might in a rare opportunity break the liner/casting bond. The top hat lines are a neat setup and with some head gasket with o-ring combinations should hold back any issues with coolant. I still think a hot engine would be a built 4.0 or 4.4 liter with bore/stroke combinations.

I have a friend with a "disgusting" Group 44 replica TR8 running a small block dart chevy 427 block de-stroked to a 383 and shoveling power in by a huge turbo. He has the power going through a T56 ending at a Ford 9-inch Detroit locker. Here is the deal moving the engine back no matter what it is; Rover, Ford or Chevy can be done and with a welder look like it was a factory install. Considerations are modifying the transmission tunnel, headers/steering shaft, shifter, drive shaft and keeping the fresh air duct for the heater core in place so you don't drown your engine with water rusting things up after all the work you put into it!

P1010300Large.jpg

Mike,

You're engine list reads like poetry!!

Did you say 30 wedges?!!! and 5 V8s?!!!  Now that's impressive.

I'm just on my first.

Thanks for the Rover 4 and 4.2 info.  I'll definitely avoid those.

"a huge handling difference", I like the sound of that.  Now, I'm reeeeally enthusiastic about relocating the motor back and lower which should be possible with a dry sump... I think.

A 427 actually fits? Wow!  

BTW, Re: Group 44 replica TR8.  Do you know if there are any body kits besides the Lanocha and Huffaker kits?

Thanks for the insight, Mike

Trip

Trip-You will be surprised at how much room there is in the TR7. Tim Lanocha has a small block 427, not the big block version. I have seen 454s stuffed between the shock towers! The body kits from Lanocha Racing are the original Group 44 molds for all the fenders, hood, trunk & doors with some molds made from the front & rear spoilers. The irony is that not even Group 44 or the owners of the 2 TR8s have these molds but have made some of various panels. The Huffaker panels are nice but don't give a true racing look.  There are various kits available from the UK that look nice and with some decent amount of body work will get you some more room for wider tires. I have all original rally fender flares and front spoilers on my Rally car. I go REALLY wide in the back and up to a 10" rim and up to an 8" rim in the front and it don't hurt the look of the car at all. There are three sizes and lengths of fender flares for the rally car. I heard you asking about various topics/items with your project; engines, transmissions, rear end, and now seat bolts. You do have you hands full. Imaging trying to resurrect a TR8 and build a full competition Tr8 with only two hands and limited time! Somehow in about 100 years the rally car might touch the ground and soon the stock TR8 will be cruising!
The rule of thumb with the Rover V8s is if it has the 4 bolt mains and was running you have a good base to start with. If you buy an unknown motor especially one that was from a dealer who pulled and replaced it you have one of two issues; liners or oil pump. It is a 50-50 chance of wasting money. The older 3.9 and 3.5 liters are just as good. Never thrown a rod or crank in one or anyone I know of yet with the 2 bolt mains.

Mike,

For the sake of the record, and it may have been a typo, but it is mainly the the later 4.0 and 4.6 four bolt main engines that suffered from block cracking and liner slip.


The 4.0 are the worst blocks as the engines were built from blocks with more core shift, the 4.6 were slightly better grade blocks.

The 3.5 rarely has a problem because there is a lot more material behind the liners The 3.9/4.2 which is the same block also rarely have the problem.

The problem with the later engine is attributed to the fact that the late blocks suffered from core shift in the casting process, and that they were run at higher temperatures for emission reason.

Of course any of the Rover engines that has been seriously overheated or suffered coolant loss, can suffer from this problem.

Picture of the block problem of a late block showing how little material there is behind the liner.

2006_block_casting.jpg

Kevin Jackson.

Kevin-Thanks for the correction or clarification!  I meant the 4.0 andd 4.6.......too many litres out here! The 3.9 and 4.2 blocks are on the same level as the 3.5s......I had a 4.6 that needed an over bore for a friend of mine and when the machine shop bored the cylinder the bond for the block and liner broke free. Only until it warmed up did it yield the ugly secret! He had to use a new 4.0 liter short block assembly just for the block and it came out fine.

Mike, 454?!!  Do the rear wheels actually touch the ground?? LOL

They must have done some serious relocating back and lower to keep a reasonable weight distribution and handling.

I would looooove to know how they did it!

10" and 8" rims, are they custom 17 or larger diameter?

Yes, I do have my hands full but still can't imagine the amount of work and research you must be enduring in order to build a race legal rally car.  It makes it a lot more difficult when there are such ridgid racing requirements and rules compared to a street project.

Okay, I'll keep your rule of thumb in mind.

Thanks,

Trip

Kevin, thank you for posting the cut-away pic of the block.  It really does help to have a visual showing the cause of porsity in the 4 and 4.6 blocks.

Trip

I would think that the 455 Buick would be a better choice than a 454, since it is significantly lighter.

Jim

Oh, I like it... a Buick 455, interesting suggestion.  

Trip

Trip,

If you have a TR7 with a 5spd it will be a LT77 so you only need a V8 2WD bellhousing and the gear lever will remain in the stock position. If you need a shorter remote lever, then the Jaguar XJ with LT77 had them.

I also would suggest not to get too carried away with your first project or it may take several years to get it on the road. Keep it simple with a nicely modified Rover 3.9  and you will have a nice well balanced car with plenty of performance which will be great fun to drive and won't end up costing the earth.

Kevin.

"I also would suggest not to get too carried away with your first project or it may take several years to get it on the road."

Kevin, you're very right about that.  I've been reading so many great suggestions here that it's been easy to get carried away with new ideas.  Kinda like a kid with a Toys R Us christmas catalogue!

Could you elaborate about the Jag remote lever.  Do you have a photo by any chance?

Trip

LOL! WOW I could had that advice six years ago. Ha ha ha ha!

Trip sorry no dimensions or pics of the shorter remote but from memory it is very short and I think the engine would need to be back about  6" to make it viable.

The standard remote should be fine if you leave the engine in the stock position and the gear lever in the same place, again less work and cost.

What year is your car?? as early models had 4 spd boxes, but they may have been a LT77 without the 5th gear, I'm more familiar with MGB specs.

Re keeping it simple, I have nothing against innovation and applaud the engineering solutions achieved by many of the members of this forum in having the ability, and in some cases the facilities to created something exitingly different.

The main thing here is what sort of budget do you have in mind and then work out a realistic spec from there, or you'll end up going in circles and it won't be on a track!

That link I gave you to Rimmer Bros for the complete conversion kit is actually very good value, especially as their parts are normally quite expensive.

Don't forget to budget in for a fully upgraded suspension, springs, shocks and bushes etc.if you buy a conversion kit the brakes are included.

Kevin.

Hello Kevin, thank you for your advice.

The car is a 1980 with the 5speed. LT77.

You mentioned moving the engine back 6".  It can be moved that much?  I was thinking 3"... maybe - without modifying the firewall, anyway.

"...you'll end up going in circles and it won't be on a track!"  
Nicely put.

Trip

Trip,

Not unless you have very short legs, no what i meant was you would have to move the engine back an impractical amount to justify using the shorter remote.

As you already have a LT77 all you need is an engine and 2wd bellhousing, plus all the other bits in the Rimmer bros Kit which you can source from wherever is most convenient and cost effective.

Kevin.

Ha, ha that's true... Talk about a real mid-engine car. LOL!  

I see what you mean.

I'm looking at the Rimmer kit now.

Trip

Trip-
To convert a TR7 to a TR8 you will need the following as a minimum:
-Rover SD1/TR8 bell housing with dust shield
-Rover SD1/TR8 Throwout bearing sleeve/carrier & pivot bolt. (You can use a TR7 throwout bearing same as TR8.
-Rover SD1/TR8 Flywheel & Clutch
-TR8 Engine brackets/mounts and subframe
-TR8 Radiator mounts (Upper and Lower)
-TR8 Drive shaft (or custom u-joint)
-TR8 Headers or stock cast manifolds
-TR8 or after market tachometer
-Electric 2 to 9psi fuel pump
-Rover SD1/TR8 Alternator bracket
Rover V8 Starter

This is what you can reuse from the TR7:
-5-Speed
-Alternator that if you remove the three bolts and rotate the housing
-Wiring which you will need to delete some wires from the TR7 and shorten the starter wires which are the same for the TR7 & 8.
-The radiator can be used if it is in excellent shape with an electric fan but it is marginal
-Coolant header tank needs to be on the passenger side inner fender
-Speedometer cable for the TR7/8 5-speeds are the same.
-The TR7 transmission cross member with mount can be used but you will have to redrill the holes in the floor further back in the tunnel
-Reuse the TR7 clutch slave, pushrod, pivot arm and hose
-Reuse the manual steering rack
-TR7 5-Speed shifter housing if kept in the stock TR8 location comes really close to the back of the hole in the tunnel. You can do some notching so it will not hit. The TR8 shifter is assembly is shorter.

Here is a picture of the Sherpa/Jaguar shortened remote shifter.
9195_1.jpg

You will find the stock TR7 springs to be softer, brakes inadequate and if you have the 3.90 rearend a waste of 1st gear. It will last about 10 feet! The TR7 sway bar is smaller than the TR8 but the rears are the same. The TR8 brakes are slightly better and the TR8 has a bigger brake booster but the same master with the exception of the warning light sensor on the bottom but not required in your case. You will also want to move the battery to the trunk to keep the heat away from it and better weight distribution too! I hope this helps you out!

Oh ya! ... it really does help me out Mike.

I get the sense you could do the entire conversion in your sleep... and probably have!!!

It looks like an overwhelming amount of work but I think as I start the project, it won't be so ominous.

When I completely redid my 4 cyl for performance.  It looked like a big job.  Bit by bit I ended up doing it top to bottom and said... TR7 V8 next!

Cheers,

Trip

Dude. That is totally the way to look at it. Bit by bit. That's how I had to progress. Now if I can just get my engine back from the machine shop...

Hello Nicholas,

That's prolly the hardest part... waiting and waiting for parts and bits and pieces when your eager to get 'er done!!!

Don't they say... patience is a virtue?

Trip

Do any of you guys know the difference in length (front flat surface to rear flat surface) of the TR7 Bell housing and the TR8 bell housing?  Steve.

You would think they would be the same since they bolt up to the same tranny, but they are slightly different.  The TR7 is 6.75" deep and the TR8 is a hair over 7".

Thanks for the feedback!  Could you give the exact length of the TR8?  How much over 7 in.?

That was measured laying flat on the floor using a tape measure.  To get a precise measurement I will have to clamp on some flat stock and break out the calipers.  There's more than enough play in the input shaft to use 7" as your measurement.  By a hair, I was literally talking a hair.  Could be from crud on the housing where it contacts the floor, a grain of sand on the floor lifting the bell a hair, casting variation.  It's British.  I could measure 5 of them and all five will be slightly different.  Go with 7".

THANKS FOR THE HELP!  YOU HAVE A TR8 BELL HOUSING FOR SALE?