Spraying Cerakote C by a newbie

Started by waterbucket, October 10, 2025, 11:10:04 AM

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waterbucket

I am thinking of spraying my SS headers with Cerakote C but have no idea of how to spray it. I should have watched the YouTube videos before asking the question but does it go on easily? Is it nasty stuff health wise? How much am I l going to need for the V6 engine.

mgb260

Phil, PM Jim Blackwood as he has sprayed his headers with it.

mgb260

Phil, I remembered that I read, that you should heat cycle or sandblast first for the ceramic to stick to stainless.

waterbucket

As much as anything is how do you coat the insides? Do you plug one end and spray in then tip the header around so that you coat the hidden surfaces and then  do the same from the opposite end? Or does the spray literally coat the inner surfaces without any problem?

MGBV8

Jim B also used Cerakote on his cast iron Buick 300 block.

BlownMGB-V8

I don't recall the specifics for Cerakote C, the last one I used was an air cure silver with no baking or polishing requirement and I was quite happy with that one. I've used it for headers, engine blocks, heads, and intake manifolds as well as timing covers on both steel and aluminum. I'll try to get the name off the bottle when I'm out at the shop. Prep is generally the same in any case and the recommended procedure seems to work well.

First requirement is freedom from oil and this is best achieved by baking any oil off. I use my old shop oven's "clean" cycle.
Next the surface needs to be given some "tooth" to allow the coating to adhere more fiercely. This is done by sandblasting, I use DRY regular sand from the builder's supply and a pressure blaster. The sand MUST be dry.
Next the residue needs to be washed off. That can be done with a pump up garden sprayer and your solvent of choice, something that does not leave a residue. If using a flammable solvent like lacquer thinner, acetone, or gasoline extra precautions should be taken to avoid any static discharge as the results could be dire. Stay upwind and do not spray yourself.
Finally the parts are sprayed, often while hung. The stuff is nasty, smells bad and you don't want to breathe it. If you do it'll make you wish you hadn't. So stay upwind at all times and keep your distance or use a respirator. Your choice. A simple filter mask is no help, or very little. Try to find a balance between spraying it too thin and too heavy. A bit thin you can get away with but too heavy and it'll develop alligator hide and you don't want that. A little practice isn't a bad idea but as much as the stuff costs you'll naturally want to minimize that.

Now as to the inside of header tubes, this is always going to be problematic and almost never result in a perfect job. But the good news is that an imperfect job is still a bit better than none. Baking will get the oils which is the first big concern but there is almost no practical way to completely sand blast the inside of the tube. Possibly some sort of side nozzle on a hose? IDK, if you try it let us know how it works. Inspection via an orthoscopic camera maybe? Then as for coating it, the best method is going to be to cork one end and pour the coating in, sloshing it about and then letting it drain. You may end up recycling the entire quart doing this and wasting a good bit. It may be heavier than desired in places. But this is the only method I know that insures full coverage. Drain it out, spray the outside, dry it, bake it if you like and Bob's yer uncle. Job done.

Also I didn't specifically say it, but all of this is best done outdoors in the wide open spaces so you can stay in the clean air as much as possible. I would discourage anyone from doing it inside.

Jim

waterbucket

That's a good deal of helpful info Jim. I think the Cerakote C is what you have used, it air dries and depending on colour is heat proof to 1800 F. Also good to know that it probably isn't possible to properly coat the internal parts, it will probably be a few months before I do the work (I am having a nose job in just over two weeks to improve my breathing so will avoid any nasty chemicals at all costs, I had read about the severe effects of contact with Cerakote.

BlownMGB-V8

I looked at the label, what I've used lately is C-7700 Silver, so I guess you were right. Seems like a pretty primo product.

I'd definitely wait and spray it outside in nice weather. I didn't have much trouble staying out of the fumes. They are pretty loud.

Jim