Did a compression test on my stroked Olds 215, not good. #4 cylinder at 50 lbs.

[Gswest236]

OK, I got the oil pump packed but want to get the copper seal washers Jim B mentioned. I got the intake out and want to wire-wheel it before doing anything with it. So while I'm waiting on the washers I'll get the heads on. The head bolts need cleaning before installation, so thats also next.

[mgb260]

Take an old oil pump bolt to the auto parts store and look at the brake copper washers. Should be a good selection.

[Gswest236]

Thanks Jim. I got some copper washers and will install the thread sealant and washers next. Caught up in another home repair delay.

[Gswest236]

I got the oil pump packed and sealed up. Once I clean up the intake manifold I can move forward with the heads.

[mgb260]

Scott, pre form bend the intake metal gasket for best fit. I smear gray permatex around the ports on both sides and let it set for a half hour, then carefully set the intake straight down.

[Gswest236]

OK Jim.  I got the heads on but only 3 bolts to hold em there. Had to look around for the locating dowels, Jon had them bagged up for me. So, whats the sequence next? Lifters, pushrods then valley pan and intake? There's some measuring needed for the pushrods right? And I've got those lash wear caps as well. I'll need to read up a bit!

[mgb260]

Scott, no measuring for your pushrods. I'd torque the heads after you install the lifters and pushrods. The long headbolts that hold the rocker shafts are in the sequence. You did line up the headgasket with the steam holes in the block? Also put a dab of RTV in the 4 corners where the heads meet the intake. Then valley gasket and intake. The torque sequence of intake is snug then 20-25ftlb. The Torque sequences are early in this thread on page 4. Do headbolts once in sequence to just snug, then 25ftlb then 50-55. We had 3 or 4 that went about a quarter turn more and wouldn't go over 50. Inserts you have are better than the helicoils Jon has.

[Gswest236]

The head gaskets lined up fine with the locating pins, so everything looked good. In one of my pics there's a round shim or gasket that was with the front seal package. What is that for?

[Gswest236]

The round gasket or shim 1st pic, next pic is the drivers side rocker bolts had these really thin washers, not on the passenger side?? I should have noted the washers position, they were in the bag with the rocker head bolts.

[Gswest236]

Jim, I wasn't supposed to open up holes in the head gasket for the steam holes was I? It lined up with everything that I could see. Where are the steam holes?

[mgb260]

No, The Olds is unique and has 4 small holes that match the gasket. On the upper side. It may be possible to put the headgasket upsidedown and block those holes.

[BlownMGB-V8]

Pushrod length is important and should be measured or checked even though the length isn't particularly critical. The stock length ones should be fine but sometimes they aren't, especially if all the parts are not stock including the cam and lifters.

Hydraulic lifters typically have nearly 1/4" of internal adjustability so they can compensate for valve and seat wear. Valve recession used to be a big thing before hardened seats became common. An adjustable pushrod is used to find the length required to take out the slack without compressing the lifter and then the preload is added to get the final length.

Preload numbers vary rather widely. You may see values as low as .020" and as high as .080", I shoot for .060" because I do not like lifter tap and find that values around .020" almost always result in lifter tap at some point and .040" often does. At .060" I've never had an issue.

Some people will claim that more preload allows the lifter to pump up and cause valve float at a lower rpm, reducing the redline. My response is that the proper way to control valve float is not with a looser valvetrain but with a firmer spring.

Jim

[mgb260]

Jim, True. On Jon's build which is almost identical, we used an adjustable pushrod and found the length of the pushrod I recommended for Scott. Heads milled, block decked, cam reground/smaller base circle and higher lift were all factors. The length is just slightly longer than stock. Stock 8.236, new 8.248. .012 longer. .050 preload figured.

[Gswest236]

I'm going to pull the heads off (only held by 3 snugged bolts) and verify I didn't cover any steam holes with upside down gasket. Thanks!

[Gswest236]

Took a head off to verify no holes are covered by the gasket and we're good. Gaskets work either way, so they're idiot proof, lucky for me! I got the lifters and pushrods in; used plenty of cam lube! I got the valley pan out and test-fitted it. Then I got the intake manifold cleaned up a bit. Needs a bit more cleaning. I watched some vids on setting valve lash and will be getting the rockers cleaned up and ready. I haven't really looked at the rocker assembly to assess whether its good to run, but I think it has so few miles since being built in 09 that its prob good!

[mgb260]

Scott, you don't set valve lash with fixed rockers. No adjustment is necessary with hydraulic lifters. Don't forget to put the lash caps on the valves before the rockers. If you had to adjust, you would either shim or mill the rocker stands to adjust. When you are ready for the intake put a little gob of RTV where the rubber gasket meets the heads.

[BlownMGB-V8]

Just make sure that the lifters that are all the way down still require the pushrods to compress the internal piston maybe 1/16" when the bolts are snugged down and you'll have good preload. If your lash caps cause more that's fine as long as they don't bottom out. After they are bolted down you can press on the pushrod end of the rocker and if the lifters are dry they should be able to compress another 1/16" or more. Rather than shim or mill the pedestals I prefer to order new pushrods from Smith Bros. A set costs about $120 or so.

Jim

[mgb260]

For those who don't know the extra large Rover valves Scott used have an installed height of 1.65 and the stock length Olds valves would be 1.70. The .050 lash caps restore the rocker geometry perfectly.

[Gswest236]

I did put the lash wear caps on and I was confused about the adjustment part; watched the wrong type videos. There were 4 shim washers on the drivers side which I reinstalled under the 4 head bolt holes on the rocker shaft (now I'm thinking this may be unneeded with new valves and pushrods, so I'll take them out before torquing to spec) I just snugged the bolts down but not too tight and I'm noticing 2 rods that are not under any compression and are floating around in the lifters. And there are 2 that are under full compression and those rods don't spin. That may be normal, you guys let me know. Should I torque the heads down to spec and check again? If I torque it down to spec and the valves that are fully open still have loose floppy pushrods; do I need longer pushrods?

[mgb260]

Take the shims out. Once torqued down the pushrods in the lifters that are off the lobe should push down the plunger slightly and you can still turn the pushrod with no up and down movement. The lifters will pump up when running. I think you have to leave the rockershafts off until all the other headbolts are torqued as they are in the way.

[Gswest236]

Oh Ok, I'm taking the shims out and torquing it down to spec after I torque the other head bolts first.
Got it! Then I'll see where we are. Appreciate it!

[Gswest236]

I took out the shims and went thru the torque sequence and got everything at 55lbs. There's no longer any rods flopping around. The valves that are fully opened, those rods cant be rotated which seems OK, there's no spring left in those lifters. Is that OK? What exactly am I looking for to tell me it's good? Should I rotate the engine at this point?

[mgb260]

Yep, The ones on the lobe will be tight. Line up your timing marks with #1 at TDC. Both lobes for #1 should be down. If not rotate again to line up. The lifters will be on the heel/base circle of the cam. The pushrods will be pushing down slightly but you should be able to turn them by hand and have no up and down movement or slack. We were perfect with an almost identical build. No lifter noise/tick at or after breakin.

[Gswest236]

Thanks Jim,
   I still have to get the timing cover cut to accommodate the interference issue. I've got the new timing marker for the cover and will get that part ready as well. So I'm supposed to measure the gap on the valve stem and rocker arms when they are not compressed (valves closed) . Is that the measurement that tells me everything is good??

[mgb260]

Scott, no measurement required with hydraulic lifters and fixed non-adjustable rocker arms. You've been watching too many videos on other motors. You may have a small wiggle at the rocker arms.