76 TR6 with GM 3.6 LFX

[Kard150]

Hi everyone,
I've read on here a number of times where this motor has been mentioned but never much past that.
I know a few people have started but nothing finished.

I found a 76 TR6 that was all a part and the body was in bad shape. As always, it was worse than it first appeared and it appeared bad! But the price was low and the frame is good.

So far ive gotten a 2018 Impala LXF and a 6 speed AY6 manual out of a 2015 Camaro. I'm using an Infiniti differential with 3.50 gears.

[Kard150]

[Kard150]

all of these shots are of test fits to see if i was wasting my time,

[88v8]

That looks like a nice fit. Have you tried the headers?

The TR6 engine weighs 430lb, the LFX... 360lb... so no big problem there.

As you say, a bit different.

It's good that you won't need to eat into the firewall air plenum.
Also good that you're checking with the cast H bracket in place, without that the body loses significant support.

The engine makes, what, 250 lb ft? So if you want to simplify things by keeping the stock rear end, a Nissan R200 diff from Richard Good and a pair of CV drive shafts, would handle the torque. That diff is good for 400 lb ft, as I recall.

I do think that simpler builds are more likely to actually be completed......

Look forward to seeing it finished next year.... :}

Ivor

[Kard150]

Thanks Ivor
I already have the rear diff installed using Richards kit but still need the axles.
Its surprising how well the engine and trans line up. I did have to modify the fire wall on both sides where it hits.

I havent gotten the down pipes yet to see, but it looks like they should be no problem.

I'm working on the body right now, the battery tray area was pretty much rust.

Ken

[Kard150]

[Kard150]

[88v8]

Well that looks good.
Might need some heat resist under the bonnet/hood.

So if you do the minimum to get it on the road, leave the cosmetics for a retirement project, you really might be driving it next year. Epic.

As a matter of curiosity, did you actually have a chance to drive the car before you pulled it apart, or another TR6?

Ivor

[Kard150]

This car i picked up in pieces out of North Carolina.  I hadn't driven a TR6 before starting this project but have since driven a couple, one being a fresh total rebuild.

I had a TR7 back in the day and also an MGB which i swapped a GM 2.8 into back in the early 80's.

I have wanted to build something for years now and picked the Triumph after a few friends started theirs.

I realize this car probably won't be popular with many and i may end up wasting away a lot of money on it BUT I'm enjoying the build.

I'm only posting because i searched and search for just this kind of information when i was planning this. I'm hoping it helps anyone else out that might be compilating anything similar.

Ken

[88v8]

Well it's good that you've at least driven one.
I knew a chap who had a TR4, then he bought a basket case TR6 and restored it to the standard where you'd arrive at an event and start polishing the suspension with a toothbrush... in conversation, he said that he'd never driven the car before he began the resto, he didn't like it, wished he'd never started, and planned to sell it.

So you've covered that base :}

I'd get the headers before you go too far with the footwells.

Ivor

[Kard150]

Ivor you might be right about the exhaust, this engine only has a single down pipe on each side but I went back and looked at Keisler Automotive site and his downpipes would hit the firewall. I'll have to make them come straight down.

I can relate to the guy with the TR4 and TR6, the first car i drove i didn't like, the second was much better.  But I'm determined to make some changes to hopefully rectify some of those concerns.

[88v8]

Yes, one simple thing with the driving... the factory seats have thin backs.
Now, I'm only 6'/32" leg but when I put Miata seats in mine (low backs) firstly I had to be careful with the runner positioning to get the maximum travel between hitting the trans tunnel and colliding with the rear arch, and secondly I had to use very low runners otherwise I couldn't see under the screen.
That done, it was fine.

If the driving position is not right, one will never he happy with the car.

The other thing that is worthwhile is a mesh wind blocker to go behind the seats and prevent the wind coming at you from behind. Really makes a big difference to comfort... which can be especially useful if one needs the Other Half to enjoy riding in the car and thus being content with the time and money it absorbs :}
I believe Moss have one.
Ahh yes, here we are https://mossmotors.com/wind-blocker-2

Sorry, nothing to do with engines...

Ivor

[Spitfire 350]

Ken, Please consider starting a project journal. A project of this magnitude should be well documented and available to the masses. Looks like a good start.

[Kard150]

I started a project thread as you suggested, But i think i may keep both threads going because i would like some feedback from others who have obviously more knowledge than I do with these cars.

It might appear that my pictures show pretty much the same as before but actually a lot has changed since then, for one ive changed out the oil pan for a rear wheel drive pan from a Camaro, nobody seems to mention this is mandatory to match a rwd transmission bolt pattern, it also fixed the problem of motor mount locations and allows the motor to sit lower and more forward than before.

I've ordered the exhaust down pipes elbows from Keisler Automation, so far i believe ive got that part figured out but am well aware that like always it might create more problem.

Most of the body mods and repairs are done that im aware of.

I believe my next big problem will be the alternator location, right now i hope to locate in on the passenger side in its original location just tucked closer to the motor, very little room for it.

[BlownMGB-V8]

If you haven't done it already, be sure to reinforce your differential mounting points as that's a weak area even with the TR4 engine. So make them very strong. Also anything you can do to reduce frame twist is going to be an advantage. Large tubular cross braces are helpful in resisting longitudinal twist if you can find room for them, Maybe one in each of the spaces forward of the swing arm mounts and perhaps something behind the diff. One each side behind the engine may also help and you possibly could even find room for one forward of the steering rack. For longitudinal bracing you could plate the recessed fame rail edges and that should help quite a bit.

Jim

[Kard150]

Thanks Jim, those are items i still need to get to. i keep looking at what everyone else has done and plan to take this frame apart hopefully this winter.
I've looked for a good place just behind the engine but it would end up too low in the frame.
 I know from reading that the differential mounts are a problem. i plan on not only boxing them in but wrapping around the frame.

Kenny

[BlownMGB-V8]

If you look at modern ladder frames you will almost always find a tube of 2-3" diameter welded across the side rails joining them together, this keeps them from twisting lengthwise. The tube is often out at the ends of the frame. Since your frame has the center rails and the outrunners you can also place these in the outside space. Should stiffen it up quite a bit.

Jim

[Kard150]

Finally got the exhaust down pipes.  Looks like easy work to get the exhaust like i want. I just need to buy the rest of the pipes and start cutting

[Kard150]

Engine Bay getting closer

[Kard150]

Another test fit with shifter, I'm glad i did but im disappointed that all that nice trimming i was so proud off...turned into crap lol

[Kard150]

[Kard150]

[Kard150]

[Kard150]

[Kard150]