overheating issue

[PTBHVAC]

Hey guys, I have a 1955 100-4 with a 327 Chevy.

I am having overheating problems.  There is only a pusher fan (set to 180 degrees) single fan with now shroud.

on short drives I am seeing temps rise above 200 in 80 degree weather.  There are side vents on the fenders and a 55 T-bird hood scoop on the hood, but it is not louvered

Any help would be greatly appreciated.  

[PTBHVAC]

I am trying to add more pictures but it seems that they need to be less than 1000 KB and all of mine are more than that  Any one have a suggestion on how to take a picture that is less than 1000 KB

[Spitfire 350]

I resize in "Paint" Lock aspect ratio and resize to 20 % works for me.
Pusher fans do not work as well as pullers. A shroud improves a puller fan's efficiency.

[88v8]

Hello and welcome.

Ha!
I was wondering how many cylinders you have in there then I realised it's two pictures stitched together.
Another resize option, in Pictures, with the pics in thumbnails, right-click on the pic and choose Edit, then in the top menu bar there's a resize option. If you want to keep the original pic full-size, when you're done choose Save As and call it dididly dum Smaller.

So, is this a new build?
Has it always overheated, or is this a new problem?
What if it sits at idle?

The 327 in my Rambler boiled over in two minutes from cold when I bought it - fuel pressure wrong, timing wrong. Would have been great for a short-order kitchen.

Ivor

[Moderator]

For photo sizing... several websites also offer free online tools. It's been a while since I used one, but I just now did a web search for "online photo resizer" and found a couple candidates.

So... has your engine actually boiled over?  I'm not sure that you really have a problem, because in my experience most engines are happy to run all day at 200F.  You're running at least a 50/50 mix of antifreeze to water, right? Your cooling system is pressurized, right? So, your engine shouldn't actually boil over until somewhere around 225 or 230, right? I think 210 to 215 is a good target temperature: low enough to keep pressure down where things don't leak, but warm enough for best efficiency and for any condensation in the crankcase to be vaporized.  

For peace of mind... do you have a way to verify your gauge, temperature sensor, and thermostats?  Back in the day, I verified all the system components I could... in my kitchen, in a saucepan of water, on my stove. (It's helpful to have a good thermometer and a multimeter.)

[88v8]

Pressurised..... good point.
Are you sure you have the correct poundage cap on there? Correct for the engine that is, not 'correct' for the original car?
Sorry if that's stating the bleedin obvious but it wouldn't be the first car to be running the wrong pressure cap.

Ivor

[DiDueColpi]

Phillip, a couple of things.
Cutis is right, you might be just fine at the current temps.
If not.
You need to seal up the airflow around the radiator. All the air coming in through that tiny little grill must pass through that rad.
The pusher fan is an air flow obstacle, finding a way to pull air is best. An engine driven fan might be your best friend.
That engine compartment is tight, put an air dam under the rad to drop the pressure under the car. That will pull more air through the rad.
Seal up the hood scoop. It's adding air pressure behind the rad.
Get a custom built rad. You have lots more room that can be utilized for cooling.
Hope that helps
Cheers
Fred