When to Blast

[DragNut]

So I have my MGB on the rotisserie and its stripped down and ready for the metal work that needs to be done...floors and sills, I was wondering if its better to blast first and prime before starting the metal work? Im thinking the blasting would show other spots that might need repair....?  Any suggestions?

[Jim Stabe]

Definitely blast it first so you know what you are dealing with

[rficalora]

Agree.  And have it epoxy primered too.  Way easier to work on a clean body she'll than constantly be cleaning before each task.  And the e-primer will keep surface rust from forming.

[DragNut]

Thanks...Now to find a soda blaster that will come to the house..!!

[Jim Stabe]

Also look for one of the guys that uses water and ground glass. They are also portable and don't leave the residue that soda does. They have featured it on My Classic Car.

[DonB]

I support all the former posts...

My limited (and all ready filthy) garage couldn't handle either the bead blaster or the epoxy painting... so I loaded the body and rotissorie on trailer (sans end pieces) and hauled to blaster... reassembled then on to paint shop for epoxy coat the same way.

Unless your blaster(or you) have a lift, it's most nigh impossible to get to all the bottom parts while lying on your back! All I needed was a flat trailer, a buddy, and a portable engine hoist.

The epoxy coat is critical as every resto I've ever seen, seems to take far longer than the original plan and this solves the "garage/fingerprint issue".

Who ever does it... make sure they really know what they are doing! Earlier media blasting of my 35 MG was too abrasive and too much pressure... and excessive heat warped two of the 4 bonnet pannels.Big bummer!

You've got the right plan... good luck and post some pics?
Cheers
Bones

[Jim Stabe]

Here is the site for the dustless blasting.

http://www.dustlessblasting.com/

[DragNut]

Here's the B on the rotisserie....

[DragNut]

And after a lot of work...I hope to get this engine in there!!

[Moderator]

The Offy/Olds valve covers look very nice!

[74ls1tr6]

Some blasting companies can spray metalized metal in the area's that have rust pin holes. You can shape this metal by filing or sanding to get the shape you want. Agree, you should prime the body after you blast to prevent surface rust. Take your car with rotisserie and put it on a flat bed trailer. Then take it to a blasting shop after you have ask questions on how they blast and treat the panels in the primer process. This will save time in the restoring process and labor you will need to do. The cost will out weight the labor trying to do it yourself.




 I had this company spray metalized metal on the floor boards and in the outer rear boot area of this GT. It had the normal rust that had a lot of pin holes. They treated the rust area's first before spraying the metalized metal. Then used epoxy primer that works with PPG base/clear paints. In the ends saved lots of time and cost not replacing panels.


Good luck with your build!

[DragNut]

Thanks for the info...I found a guy who is not to far from me who does the dustless blasting and he comes to my location...cant beat that! Im going to get a price ....

[DragNut]

So I was talking with Rick from R&S Blasting and its $165. per hour...he thinks its a 4 to 5 hour job....he also recommended cutting all the rusted metal away before he blasts...now I have to replace both floors and both sills..is it wise to cuts all of that away first? I was concerned about the body sagging with all that missing . My plan was to replace each sill one at a time.

[MGBV8]

May be money & aggravation ahead of the game to start with one of these.

http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/5114381845.html

http://fayar.craigslist.org/cto/5105289995.html

http://fayar.craigslist.org/cto/5101125923.html

http://lincoln.craigslist.org/cto/5137884299.html

[DragNut]

No way....I enjoy the metal work side of the project...Keeps me out of trouble...

[Moderator]

Calvin wrote: "Some blasting companies can spray metalized metal in the area's that have rust pin holes..."

I'm not familiar with the term "metalized metal". Does that material/process involve zinc? Once metalized metal has been applied, are there issues with welding? (Toxic vapors?)

[MGBV8]

Something like this?

http://www.hahnvorbach.com/MetalizingService.htm

http://www.metallisation.com/applications/metallisation-equipment-repairs-body-panels.html

https://youtu.be/IDeLZ-ymDOc

[MG four six eight]

Excellent thread, I hope to start restoring my C GT soon. But have been putting it off after restoring the body on my V8 the old school way of using a sand blaster and cutting/replacing panels.
The old school way works well, but it makes one heck of a mess and really chews up the hours!

Bill

[DragNut]

I cannot figure out how the air intake chrome piece comes off....anybody?

[BlownMGB-V8]

You mean the trim on the cowl vent? You just pry it up. Might want to spray the pins first.

Jim

[MGBV8]

A strip of masking tape on the front cowl next to the vent to protect the paint. Then use Popsicle Sticks and a thin flat tip screwdriver. Place a stick on the tape next to the edge of the vent and begin to pry up the vent very carefully with the screwdriver. Start prying up the vent as evenly as you can. Once you get it started the rest is easy. Stuff a stick under the vent and use another stick further on the pry it loose. Worked for me without damage to the paint or the surface.

The MG Experience archive search is great for this kind of stuff.

[DragNut]

Ok...I didn't want to go prying things...don't want to ruin that piece....Thanks...

[74ls1tr6]

Curtis,

To your question about welding sprayed metal. When I tried to weld close to an area that had sprayed metal,it did not weld right, but had huge fan while welding. You are probably right about being toxic!! After, did not weld in those areas. So there is a thought process in doing certain panels. If you need to spray metal, make sure that you don't need to weld in that area.

[BlownMGB-V8]

Looks to me like a hot spray galvanizing process, so any precautions with zinc would apply. I expect solder or body lead would stick to it rather well.

Jim

[DragNut]

Well.... Got to test fit some steel today, I finally got the old stuff out and man that was a job! I have decided to go ahead and just patch the floor instead of replacing the whole thing...much of it is still in good shape.