Better Brake Master Cylinder (Dual) 100/6-3000

Started by Wingman, June 12, 2014, 06:41:09 PM

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Wingman

I just put a Wilwood Dual Circuit Master cylinder and proportioning valve my 100/6. A very simple install. The master cylinder bolts right up and uses the original push rod. I removed the rear brake line at the 4 way connector, cut is shorter to fit the "out" side of my proportioning valve mounted inside the trans cover, and ran a new rear brake line along side the clutch line across the firewall and down to the "in" side of the proportioning valve. The master cylinder lines connect on the underside of the Wilwood unit, so I had to reshape the original brake line a little. Now the original line operates only the front brakes and the new line operates the rear brakes. I also replaced the clutch master cylinder with a Wilwood unit which again used the original push rod and bolts in with no modifications required.  Only tools needed were a flaring tool, line bender, and a cut off tool. You will need about 10 ft of 3/16 hard line, a couple fittings, and a plug for the 4 way connector.  This is a much safer system. On a single curcuit system like on my 100/6, there are three brake hoses and six wheel cylinders and if ANY of them fail there is ZERO brakes other than the hand brake. The Dual system will give you at least 50% of the brakes when a failure occurs. (You might have to modify your air cleaner on the rear carb to clear the reservor on the master cylinder though.)

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1971 MGB GT V8
Buick 215 w/ Rover heads, custom EFI & crank-fired ignition.
Custom front and rear coilover suspensions.


Wingman

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Here are the pics. Silver line is the rear brakes. Front brake line not visable since they attach to the bottom of the master cylinder.