Mike's TR7 Ford repower project

[tr8todd]

I have one with a 26X19 and a couple with 26X16.  The 26X16 works better, as the 19" hangs too low.  $180 from Summit.  What did you do for front hubs, strut tubes, etc. to get the 5 lug?  On mine, I went with redrilled SD1 stuff to match the 8.8 in the back.  Made finding wheels easy.

[Addicted]

Todd, is that a Griffin radiator?  That's what I'm seeing on Summit.  

My front hubs are actually trailer hubs that I've done some machining on.  Ford 5 x 4.5 pattern.  The strut tubes are stock, except for changing out the spring seat.  If my wheels fall off, I'll make something different.

[tr8todd]

Yes, just looked them up and they are $173.  Go to summit and search radiators 26X16.  You get 8 to choose from depending on where you want your inlets and outlets.  I'm curious about the trailer hubs.  Do they use the same stock tiny wheel bearings?  I went with SD1 so I could get bigger spindles, bearings, and hubs, not to mention the 5 lugs.  Had to weld the 5 on 5 shut and redrill to 5X4.5.  The bigger hubs messed with the offset, but that was easy to work out.  It also gave me a natural 1* of negative camber.  Had to shorten the tubes.  Went with Cherokee rotors and willwood calipers.  Never ever going to do it that way again.  I have come up with something much cleaner, easier, and lighter now.  Check out Lorenze's TR8 in the build section.  He was my guinea pig.

[Addicted]

http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,42113

That should link you to the project journal I had going before I started this thread.  It shows my hub setup.  
The inner bearing and seal are identical.  The outer bearing is bigger with a spacer to make up the difference, but the spindle is stock.  

I've had quite a few TR7's and never seen any issues with the tiny outer bearings or spindles.  Do people upgrade to larger bearings and spindles because it seems smart, or because they have actually had failures?  Don't get me wrong, I spent a lot of time thinking about how to ditch the TR7 spindles, but I didn't have it on my "must do" list.  

If there is info on 8.8 rear installation, I could use some good ideas for that too.  I have a mustang 8.8 with the round ears cast into the center section.  I'm hoping I can make those work in the TR7.

[kscharf]

Following your built with great interest....That SBF looks awesome sitting in the engine bay....Amazing work, great pictures and write up...

Ken

[Addicted]

I finished installing a new oil pressure gauge tonight.   I'm pretty pleased with the match to the original gauges.

[rficalora]

Looks very good Mike.

[Addicted]

I'm getting down to the details on the engine installation.  Feels pretty good to see things coming together and actually fitting!  

I just received the radiator Todd recommended as well as the long bolts I needed to finish up the water pump and alternator installation.

[Addicted]

I'm now working on fitting my radiator.  I decided I better go with a remote pressurized coolant tank, and I cut the radiator cap fitting off the top of my new radiator.  I kept the vent port, and welded a cap on to the cut-off radiator cap port.  I'm not the best aluminum welder as I don't do it every day, but it came out pretty well.

[Addicted]

I'm inching closer on my project.  
I've gotten these things done in the past month or so:  
1) 8.8 rear end narrow / rebuild / install
2) Rear disk brakes & parking brake setup
3) Stainless exhaust
4) Radiator mounts
5) Fan & fan controller installation
6) Accessory belt drive
7) Cold air intake / air filter
Finish wire harness in engine bay

This should be about all that's left to give it an initial startup:  
1) Finish radiator hose & top tank installation
2) Install driveshaft (ordered yesterday)
3) Finish front suspension assembly
4) Finish some wiring under the dash
5) Bleed brakes
6) Make an engine dipstick and put oil in everything
7) Get a charcoal canister for my tank vent

Heck, I ought to be able to get that all done this weekend.   :  )

[Moderator]

This is a great thread/project!  I hope you keep taking and posting lots of photos.

[Addicted]

Before I tucked it into place, I got a shot of my upper radiator suppor support.  The top of the fan is also mounted there.

[Addicted]

Santa left a package on my doorstep today.


It was made by PST, and it looks great.   I just ordered it Monday.

[epeppy]

Looks great Mike. Was wnondering whose brake master cylinder you were using?

[Addicted]

Ed, it's for a 1994 Ford Ranger / Explorer.  1" bore size.  I selected it after looking at many many options.  It was inexpensive and easily replaced (as long as I remember what it is).  I like the look of it compared to many of the other options I checked out.

[epeppy]

Mike, sent you a PM.

Ed

[Capt'n Moorgone]

Mike, Looks like a little late night thrashing could get you to Carlisle Kitcar Import show in a couple weeks, lol. We'll be there Friday to Sunday.  Mike

[Addicted]

Mike,
I was at Carlisle with this same TR7 in about 1996.  I will have to think about heading down there again.

[Addicted]

Well, I started it up and managed to drive it 0.7 miles this weekend.  The brakes barely work at this point, so I just went around the block to see how everything else worked.  

Other than brake headaches, the startup went smoothly and I am very happy with everything.  The Magnaflow XL mufflers sound perfect to me.  They aren't very loud, but sound healthy.  If anyone wants a somewhat quiet car, I'd recommend these mufflers.  

The weather should be nice for the next few days, so I'll keep plugging away at it and will plan to get a video of it running in the next few days.  

On the brake issue, I continually get lots of air out of the front calipers.  I literally bled a gallon of fluid through them last night.  I've tried vacuum bleeding, vacuum and pumping together, and pumping by itself.  Tonight, I plan to pull the pads out, let the pistons extend, and then push fluid back up into the master cylinder by sqeezing the pistons back in.

[Addicted]

I was able to improve the brakes considerably last night.  I did the piston extension and retraction process a few times.  It empties about half of the fluid reservoir, and then I pushed everything back into the reservoir.  I then did some bleeding by pushing the pedal very very slowly (my 9 year old daughter actually did the pedal work, and she enjoyed helping).  

It probably still has a bit of air, but it feels safe to drive now.  I'll bleed it again tonight if I can get it on the road for a few miles.  

The only other issue I have is that the 10si alternator seems to have died.  It charged for a few minutes and then quit.  I'll check the wiring and the ground, and replace it if necessary.  I customized the bolt pattern on it, so I'd have to swap the front housing onto the a one.

[mgb260]

Mike, Did you bench bleed the master first?

[DiDueColpi]

Hey Mike,
If the wiring checks out OK.
Check the belt tension. It sounds dumb but we fix lots of burnt out alternators just by tightening the belt.
Then you can quickly test the alternator by full fielding it.
This is done through a small "D" shaped hole in the rear housing.
Just insert a small screwdriver into the "D" hole and ground the tab inside.
If the alt starts to charge then all that's wrong is the regulator.
A rebuild kit is available for these alternators.
They are cheap @ around $20.00 and rebuilding is ridiculously easy.

Cheers
Fred

[Addicted]

" Posted by: mgb260
 Date: May 06, 2014 05:22PM
 Mike, Did you bench bleed the master first?"


No, I did not.  I am guessing I should have.  Will I get there without taking it off and bench bleeding it now?

[Addicted]

"Date: May 06, 2014 08:46PM
If the wiring checks out OK.
Check the belt tension. It sounds dumb but we fix lots of burnt out alternators just by tightening the belt.
 Then you can quickly test the alternator by full fielding it.
This is done through a small "D" shaped hole in the rear housing.
Just insert a small screwdriver into the "D" hole and ground the tab inside.
If the alt starts to charge then all that's wrong is the regulator.
A rebuild kit is available for these alternators.
They are cheap @ around $20.00 and rebuilding is ridiculously easy.

Cheers
Fred"

Fred,
Thanks.  I'll try snugging up the belt.  It does charge a little bit regardless of whether the field and sense connections are hooked up.  It looks like it's spinning fine, but

I can swap it for a rebuilt one at AdvanceAuto for about $22.  My front cover is customized to fit the Ford bracketry, so I'll have to swap covers if I get a different alternator.  I should probably just put a regulator in the one I have since I have to take it apart anyway.  

I have heard of that full field test, but also heard it can burn things up.  I'll try it.  If the alternator burns up, then I'll get another one.  Hopefully that hole isn't blocked by my cylinder head.

[mgb260]

Mike, You can do the bench bleeding on the car. Just loosen the brake line fitting slightly one line at a time. Have container or stack of rags underneath. Have a helper push the pedal down to the floor and hold it. Tighten fitting and do the same on the other one. You may have to do it 2 or 3 times. Don't let the master cylinder get low. Then do normal bleeding, starting with farthest from master cylinder. Right rear, then left rear, then passenger front, then driver front normally.