Question for Dave Craddock or other fiberglass gurus

[rficalora]

I'm making a center console and arm rest and want to use the factory arm rest piece for the basic shape - I think it'll be a lot easier to modify it than start from scratch.

So, question...  will fiberglass resin & mat stick to the plastic MG console?  If so, I can make the changes and tie it all together with fiberglass.

[Preform Resources]

Rob, usually those parts are made of ABS plastic so poly resin will stick to it ,one of the components  of abs is styrene and
so are poly resins, however if your part is  anything else you can only get a marginal mechanical grip on it. What are you using for a mould /form?
Dave

[rficalora]

Thanks Dave.  Unless you or someone else tells me it's not a good idea, my plan is to use the existing '76 arm rest piece & modify it to add in some cup holders, raise the arm rest a little, & maybe shift the arm rest portion back a little - if I can, making it slide back to open instead of flipping up.  

I have the vision in my head, but haven't collected parts yet.  Thinking I can find some cup holder & sliding arm rest sections at the pick-a-part that would work & would use those, along with the existing plastic piece from the MG, & some MDF or hardboard to make the adjustments -- blending & making transitions with fiberglass & fleece as needed.  Once smoothed out, I'll cover with vinyl.  So the form will be the pieces themselves.

Thoughts?

[Preform Resources]

Rob, all sounds reasonable to me, another way is the mat board and tape method then fab a fiberglass part, it was discussed here
on cooling systems http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?8,18574,, good luck.
Dave

[rficalora]

Thanks again Dave.  I think I'll use mat instead of hardboard as I can probably make the transitions more easily.  I don't expected it'll be pretty but I'll take pics when I do it.  Will have to figure out the sections or layers to enable wrapping it without too many inside compound curves or corners...  seems like that would make wrapping easier.

[Preform Resources]

Rob, keep in mind it doesn't matter how complex you make it that way if you have enough wax on the cardboard it will pull right out leaving you an FRP part, just clean it up and detail it,,,,,, you've done plenty of that !!
Dave

[MGBV8]

This would be a fun workshop that we could do in the parking lot at the Meet.  Let's fab something out of 'glass!

[tr6turbo]

I need a front bumper for my TR6.  I would finance the materials for the workshop and the bumper to use as a plug.

[MGBV8]

There ya go. Whataya say, Dave?

[Preform Resources]

I say I'm struggling with what we're gonna bring already, ! that's a bit of a stretch for a show and tell project .
Dave

[NCtim]

Guys,

Here's a link that I think we'll all find useful. It's a bit more involved than Dave's advice but the guy produces a beautiful fan shroud.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Make_a_fiberglass_fan_shroud

Tim

[Preform Resources]

Tim, here is a couple posts about this subject from not too long ago, I think Graham Creswick still has his mould !
Dave
forum.britishv8.org/read.php?8,18574
forum.britishv8.org/read.php?2,34036,34128

[S Splash]

Hi Rob, how is the center console going? I'm interested in doing something similar to extend the console. You've done a lot of neat things to your car. I'm always looking forward to your next project. A car is never finished.
Steve

[rficalora]

I'll shoot some pics this weekend and update this thread.  I've made the pieces and covered two of them... one of which is actually three pieces.  Hadn't covered the last piece because I broke a switch and wasn't sure I'd be able to find the same one - didn't want to waste the vinyl if I had to change the hole shape.  I ultimately found the switch and it came in Friday so that piece is ready to cover now.

I like the shape and general idea of what I did, but there are a few execution details I don't like.  I'll probably remake the arm rest portion to correct those at some point.  I also need to learn a bit more about applying the vinyl.  It looks good except the inside corners.  I haven't been able to get the vinyl to stay attached in those areas.  I'm sure there's a "right" way to do it, I just know how... yet.

Lastly, the vinyl holds better to wood than it does to fiberglass.  I'm guessing that and the reason it's coming loose in the corners is related to the glue I'm using.  I've tried both a 3M heavy duty spray adhesive and solvent based contact cement.  

Anyway, pics to follow this weekend.

[roverman]

Rob and clan, what about structural foam ? You can shape console exactly as you want, and then coat with high strength resin ?  Good Luck, roverman.

[DiDueColpi]

Hey Rob,
Trying to glue down vinyl has driven me to the edge!
3M, Elmers, Lepage, nothing seems to work long term.
It seems that the material emits a release agent over time that rejects any form of adhesive.
It actually seems to get "oily" in the heat of the sun and repel the glue.  
So what I have found to work is.
Wipe the vinyl down with tolulene and let it dry.
Then wipe it again with acetone and let that dry.
Prime the surface with Lepage's high strength contact cement. The brush on type not the spray.
Give the vinyl a wet coat of the same glue and stick it down with the help of a heat gun to shape the vinyl.
I often use my vacuum table to pull all the air out.
It's powered by a simple shop vac and works really well.
If you need to use a spray glue, my son in law turned me on to an industrial product that works well.
It's called Permagrip pg107 and it comes in a spray can.
It will glue oil to Teflon but there are no second chances.
Hope that's helpful.
Cheers
Fred

[Moderator]

It will glue oil to Teflon...

I gotta get me some! Fred, you always amuse me.

[rficalora]

Pics I promised.  I like the like the layout, but there are several things about the execution I'm not happy with so will be redoing it.  I'll be reusing some of the parts and remaking some.  Things I need to address are:

* The sliding lid will need to be redesigned.  As it is, it's too long to slide back far enough to expose a storage tray.  I'd measured but didn't measure low enough and it hits the hump at the bottom center of the package tray.

* The aluminum channel grooves need to be deeper so the channel sits flush or even slightly inset after it's wrapped... I don't like how the channel shows.

*  I need to cut some holes in the top of the trans tunnel to make room for the cup holder to drop all the way down.  Same for the back of the switches.

* It's going to have a padded armrest attached to the sliding lid but the whole thing needs to be about 1" taller even with the arm rest to be comfortable for me.  (Armrest will be the same color as the outer part f the seats and the flat shifter section will be black like the radio section.)

But, for a 1st shot it's not bad and was a good learning experience.  I ended up using wood and mimicking the general shape of the OEM console.  The only place I used fiberglass is on the vertical radio console portion and that's on the back to reinforce it.

I'm open to any ideas &/or suggestions... other than making it one piece.  I thought about that but don't think I could wrap it if I made it that way.

[kerbau53]

Looks good!

[BlownMGB-V8]

Rob, is there any way you could make the lid so that it sort of wraps around the console body? That would make it a more comfortable arm rest.

Jim

[rficalora]

Yeah Jim, plan is for about a 1" thick padded top piece that is formed at the front to also serve as the pull to slide the lid open.  I just havent added it yet as the dimensions will likely change as I sort out how to redo that part so it fully opens.

[DiDueColpi]

Just a thought Rob,
What about making the top from one piece of laminated venier?
You could match the wood from your dash and have a nice flowing curved surface.
The sides could be made up the same way or heat formed out of lexan and then upholstered.
It would look a lot more factory than the boxed sections.
And if you made your mold reusable you could probably sell a few.
Cheers
Fred