Buick / Rover oil pumps and front covers

[Moderator]

I've gotten a lot of e-mails over the years about sourcing of oil pump covers and also front covers.  Later model Buick V6 parts bolt right onto a Buick 215 or onto Rover V8s up through 3.9 (and maybe beyond).  They're readily available and they're dirt cheap, especially compared to what Rover specialists charge!

I guess one problem might be that these parts can be difficult to find using a Google search.

This link might help you: http://www.silver-seal.com/category/shop.engine_parts.timing_covers.1for_buick/

Notice the following:
brand new front cover with pump gears, springs, etc. - $144.00
same cover without the gears and springs - $116.5
brand new "metric" style oil pump cover / filter mount - $22.50
 
I've never bought anything from Silver Seal, but I can't help but notice that they have a very helpful website and they're proud to put their help desk phone number on every page of it. They've been in business since 1959.

Notice that the V6 front covers come with neoprene front crankshaft seals, which IMHO are clearly superior to the rope seals Buick 215 and Rover 3.5 came with. The only downside I can think of with using these covers is that the timing mark scale won't be indexed correctly for the timing mark on a V8 harmonic balancer. (You can fix that several ways...)

Notice that the "metric" oil pump cover points the filter forward at an angle which may be hugely helpful for some engine installations.

I've been using a V6 timing cover and a V6 "metric" oil pump cover for many years on my Buick 215. Ref:
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/CurtisJacobson/CurtisJacobson-I.jpg
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/CurtisJacobson/CurtisJacobson-BA.jpg

[bsa_m21]

The below items also work just fine on 3.5L, 3.9L & 4.2L engines.  Haven't tried them on 4.0L and 4.6L engines, but they should work just fine.  You will need a blanking plate for the fuel pump opening.:

MAHLE Clevite # 601-8090 Kit consisting of:
   TIMING COVER # 6570SC
   STANDARD OIL PUMP KIT # 6570PK
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This fits the following vehicles:
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Metric Oil filter housing
MAHLE-CLEVITE / SILVER SEAL # 6570 HS
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Fits:
BUICK 181ci V6       1982-1988
BUICK 231ci (3.8L) V6    1975-2002
BUICK 350ci V8       1968-1981


Hope this also helps.

Martin

[BlownMGB-V8]

Plus the Rover 3.9 oil pump housing points the filter down and forwards which can be helpful.

Jim

[NCtim]

Did anyone figure out if this is direct bolt on for a Rover 4.0L? It is shorter than the front cover I have and would this affect the sealing area on the crank?

Thanks,
NCtim

[RDMG]

Hi all,

Reviving another old thread here, but I'm hoping to capture the last chapter of knowledge on Rover timing covers.

More specifically, I'm wondering how the earlier Buick v6 and Rover covers fit onto the last generation of Rover v8s, the 4.6 with Thor intakes?  

If Megasquirt/edis ignition is part of the equation, will the late-style cam with no distributor drive gear fit the earlier covers?

What about the oil sump?  The last generation Rover sumps were cast aluminum, and I don't know how they may or may not mate to the earlier-style front cover?  Any oil pickup issues?

Does the larger woodruff key slot in the newer engine cranks cause any issues?  Did the late 80s Buick 3.8 v6 have a large woodruff key also?

The very last generation of serpentine Rover Thor-intake v8s had a thinner front cover (or at least a water pump closer to the block) than the earlier serp V8s (I think).  How does it compare to the covers above?

Dave

[minorv8]

You can fit earlier Rover covers to 4,6 engines. Basically you just swap the short block from 3,whatever to 4,6 litre. You will only need one crank pulley spacer to accommodate a longer snout on 4,6 crank. However, the earlier covers do not have sensor locations (e.g. cam sensor) if you wish to retain the EFi.

For spacer see: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-LR012879SPACER

Late-style cam will physically fit the block and earlier front cover but there is no provision to run the old style oil pump. So basically no. (Another thing is that late style cams also have a cam locating plate fitted to the block. Older blocks do not have these holes in the block casting.)

The length of Rover 4,6 sump is different from older style so will not fit (unless you are prepared to do some cutting and welding).

Serpentine engines with distributors had one version of the front cover, obviously longer because of the distributor and the models had another version where there is no provision for the distributor. Physically both fit any Rover block.

[eyeosteverino]

It's frustrating to install a rebuilt  215, and not get any oil presure when spinning the OP with a drill motor.  I repacked the pump with vasoline twice, installed a HV kit, pressurized the system with an air - oil tank, filled the block with ten quarts of oil, and got no OP turning the pump at 500 rpms.  Sleepless nights followed.  Checked that the pick up tube was still secured, and that the gasket was in place,  I borrowed a 1200 rpm  drill motor, and got about  twenty psi indicated, but that dropped as I continued to run the motor.  Next I hooked up a line to the outlet side of the pump, spun it, and observed the oil which was mixed with air and came out in spurts.  I've rebuilt a few Buick 215s and 198 V-6s and never seen this before.  Well, barring any block defects, the only locations air can enter the oil feed side are  at the pick up to block junction and the front cover to block mating surfaces, so I removed the FC, and saw a small gap at the point where the oil ports are when I layed it on a true flat surface.  I got the gap under two thou after an hour sanding, reinstalled the FC, this time with a little perma-tex.  Priming the pump now brought the op up to 40 psi with no gurgling.  This engine was one I had in a F-85 years ago, ran well, had good OP, I just thought I'd freshen it up before I put it in  my  Buick Special.  If it ain't broke, don't fix it, and if you must, check that the FC is flat before hand.  Next time I will prime the pump while the engine is on the stand.

[BlownMGB-V8]

It is generally a very good idea to enlarge the oil galley in the block, and then use the late V6 pickup which has a 5/8" tube. Reduces suction on the pickup side. A piloted drill is best, and will follow the existing hole with less chance of a breakout. 5/8" is usually possible.

High volume pump kits are now regarded as a poor, and troublesome modification, and not necessary if the engine is built right.

Jim

[devonrod]

Are these Buick aftermarket timing covers fitted with the longer high volume SD1 Rover oil pump gears with a male end to the distributor or are they the early shorter gears with a female end ?

[Moderator]

It appears the link in my original 2012 post (above) is broken. Here's a new link: https://shop.silver-seal.com/storefrontCommerce/subcategorybrowse.do?subcategory-name=Buick&path=Silver+Seal%2f%2f%2f%2fEngine+Parts%2f%2f%2f%2fTiming+Covers&currentPage=1&numResults=10

Happily, Silver Seal still lists the Buick timing cover kits and filter housings on their website as of now, in October 2022.

Here's a screenshot:

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Buick style... so apparently female.

I'd contact the company for specific questions such as "What are the the specific differences between their 'stock replacement' and 'hi-volume' kits?"

[devonrod]

Thank you Curtis

[BlownMGB-V8]

High volume is generally not a good idea. Much better to tighten up the bearing clearances.

Jim

[bigaldart]

I don't suppose anyone knows the gear height on these kits? are they the same as the early Rover or 27mm or so like the SD1 onwards models.

Cheers

Alan

[phongshader]

bringing this back from the dead...I have a Rover interim front cover , gerotor pump with distributor, and I want to put it on a Olds block. Will this work with the Olds crank or will the crank snout be too short? If not I'll save the cover for another project.

[MGBV8]

The interim timing cover used the crank driven oil pump.  It can & has been done.  It will require the keyway being machined longer.

I have been meaning to revisit this thread with more info on the distributor driven oil pump gear specs.

[turbodave]

I will say this about the crank driven gerotor setup - watch out for crappy aftermarket parts.  I had a brand-new set of gerotor pump gears that had more clearance than the set that had already sent one discovery to the scrapyard. I ended up using emery to clean up the originals instead, and the new set went on the scrap pile.

[v8mgb]

I purchased 6571KTS recently for a Buick 215.  The cover works but there are a few modifications

The dowel pins on the new Silver Seal cover are 1/4" and the Buick 215 are 5/16"  I carefully drilled the cover to 5/16" one drill step at a time.

The distributor hold down bolt hole is in the wrong location.  I was able to use the later model hold down location on top after I filed open / elongated the hold down clamp bolt hole.

On the top of the timing cover there is a large square boss that will interfere with the Buick 215 valley pan hold down clamps.  The boss needs to removed.  

As mentioned above there is no timing mark and you will need to bolt on a simple pointer.

Dry fit everything to make sure it will work

Other then the above the cover is a good option.

[ag1234]

Once again I ask, who wants a roller cam ?

                                                                      Arturo

[MGBV8]

You still have blanks, Art?

[ag1234]

Only 24 left, better hurry !

[BlownMGB-V8]

Art, am I right that these blanks are the late Rover pattern? What is required to use them in a Buick engine?

Jim