Did a compression test on my stroked Olds 215, not good. #4 cylinder at 50 lbs.

[Gswest236]

With the balancers keyway at 12 o'clock which puts the timing groove at 12 o'clock the white paint mark is at 9 o'clock. I was reading up on the balancer install techniques and saw that these things can spin and create issues with timing and vibration. Checking that the keyway is in line with the timing mark is one way to determine if it has spun. It lines up but that white mark is way off.

[mgb260]

Best way is to find top dead center with #1's valves both closed and see what lines up. If it doesn't line up, go around again. Is the white mark about 12-16 degrees past the 20 degree mark on the indicator? That would be the Total timing advance including centrifugal in the distributor. I always time that way at 3500 RPM and initial or static timing is usually 14-17 degrees, where ever it lands. Keyway does not always line up with mark. I've always sent my old damper to Damper Dudes.

[Gswest236]

I haven't got that far Jim. Damper Dudes reconditions these things? I see they sell them. I think this ones fine but what do I know! I'm going to install it and get it to TDC and see where the marks line up. Go from there. Thanks

[mgb260]

They used to. You are probably fine. A lot of time the rubber is cracked or you would have visible separation or misalignment. Another trick is to line up the initial timing at 12 degrees advance instead of zero, closer to where it will run at first start up. Mark the cap at #1 and inside the distributor where the rotor will point at #1.

[Gswest236]

OK, thanks! I'll be gone for a few days and will be working on it when I get back.

[BlownMGB-V8]

An accurate zero @ TDC is usually done before the heads go on using a piston stop and a degree wheel but can be done afterwards in several ways, mostly involving the spark plug hole. Keep in mind it sits at an angle to the piston so it's a more delicate process.

You can buy or make either a piston stop or a dial indicator mount that screws in there, then with a degree wheel or marks on the damper, mark the same point on both sides of zero, which will then be the mid-point.

Jim

[MGBV8]

Another trick is to line up the initial timing at 12 degrees advance instead of zero, closer to where it will run at first start up. Mark the cap at #1 and inside the distributor where the rotor will point at #1.

Exactly the way I did it when I recently replaced my intake gasket. Found compression stroke with my finger in the spark plug hole while I rocked the car (in 5th) with my legs. Lined up the mark at 12 degrees & dropped in the distributor.  Fired right up.  Checked timing with timing light.  Still 12 degrees.  Tightened down the distributor & drove it 457 miles to the British V8 meet in Canfield, OH.